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Friday, February 15, 2013

Chapter 16: Epilogue

Epilogue

By the time we arrived at the Victoria Bus Terminal, we had exchanged phone numbers and addresses and made promises to 'keep in touch'.  I broached  the idea of a party in my West London flat in June, to exchange photos and the trip memories they evoked. Then we had enjoyed poignant individual hugs before going our separate ways - most of us tearfully.  

It was difficult to leave the adventure behind.  But real life awaited us!

My job
I returned to work the very next day, fully aware that my job might no longer exist as I might already have been fired. Thankfully, my boss looked more relieved than angry to see me.  Against all odds, she had received my postcard from Fes, and her Bohemian spirit had understood my very human need to escape the cold, dark and passionless English winter.  

She knew that I was grieving the sudden departure of my Canadian boyfriend and that a Moroccan trip had been an excellent tonic for what ailed me.  So she had already forgiven me, which was quite remarkable, under the circumstances!  But then, Miss M was a truly remarkable educator.

In return, she expected my full cooperation, and then some, in future workaday matters.  And, in my sincere gratitude, I was more than willing to oblige.

Each afternoon, Ms M invited me to make us both a cup of tea, and while she sipped, I recounted a different chapter of my bus trek to Morocco and back. My travel tales entertained us both for the several weeks it took the British climate to come close to matching the warmth we had experienced during our trip.

My Canadian boyfriend
Also waiting for me, when I arrived home, were several long and loving letters from my erstwhile Canadian boyfriend.  He had simply refused to accept that our time together was well and truly over, and was not about to let me dismiss him in a letter.

He wasn't interested in our being "just friends".  He said that being separated from me, even  for only a few weeks, had helped him to realize that leaving England had been a colossal mistake. Thus, he was working for his return to England that Autumn, when he would discuss our future with me, in person.

Strangely, I was ambivalent both about his declaration and his plans to return, even though I had bid him goodbye, emotionally, only a few weeks before. So much had happened to and for me since we had parted. Ah, but Autumn was many months away yet and I had time to think in depth about our romantic connection before his return.

My Moroccan trip had shown me the joy of independence. And I now knew that I had to define my own life, and not be pressured into a role prescribed by someone else - no matter how well-meaning that person, nor how promising that role, may appear to be.

2 months later

My party
Two months later, I contacted everyone from the bus trip and arranged for those attending to bring their photos to my party, at my Olympia flat.   As fate would have it, my Mother was still out of the country.  But her boyfriend, John, happened to be in London on the Saturday of my party, and had dropped by my apartment with news from my travelling Mater. 

Having prepared masses of food for that afternoon's gathering, I invited him to chow down.  Then he continued to wait with me, for the crowd to arrive and the party to begin. 


We waited.........

And we waited......

But only one fellow traveller ever arrived.  And that one was a rather drunken Len.

John had not thought it safe to leave me alone with Len, having been told of his attitude towards me during the trip. He did, rather callously, suggest dropping Len off under the nearest road-bridge to sleep it off.  But I protested that while Len might sometimes behave like a reprehensible human being, he was not a sewer rat! John then capitulated and chauffeured all of us to his parents' home near Gerrard's Cross, in Buckinghamshire.

Len promptly passed out in the car, and took to the guest bedroom as soon as we entered the home of the "Aged Parents" - as we called them.  John's parents were also away travelling, so we three spent the evening and night alone in their abode.  John was none too happy about that situation.  It wasn't HIS home, and Len was, after all, a total stranger. 

As it happened, John's instincts about Len's being 'weird' were to prove 100% correct.  In the middle of the night, Len had visited the home's only bathroom, opened the top drawer of the vanity. Then, for reasons known only to Len, vomited into the drawer and then closed it again.

what the #!@&?

John's parents kept their personal bathroom items in those drawers, so neither John nor I would have dreamed of opening it.  Our good manners thus prevented us from deciphering the cause of the acid stench that assailed our nostrils the next morning, putting it down to 'plumbing' problems that will often unaccountably assail older abodes.  

It wasn't till a week later that Lens 'contribution' was discovered, by John's Mother, when his parents returned to their home again. What a disgusting "welcome home" gift!

Len had vanished by the time John woke up the next morning.  I'd slept in, exhausted after my cooking spree and the disappointment of my failed party the previous day. So John did some gardening for his parents before waking me with a cup of tea and the news that Len had disappeared. And that was, thankfully, the last time I would have to endure Len's weirdness.

Still, I was sad that my party plans had failed.  I had been looking forward to seeing the others again, as well as the pictures they were to have brought with them. I was also annoyed that not one of them had had the grace to phone and let me know they were cancelling on me. 

Ah well, it was my fault for expecting everyday civility from people who were only "vacation" friends!   

But that was not even close 
to being the end of this matter.

Anton's party
Later that same week I was surprised to receive a phone call from Anton, telling me that his 'live in girlfriend'  would be hosting a Morocco theme party in their North London home, later that same month.  And I was invited.  

At least I now knew why the only one attending MY party had been Len!  No wonder he'd had to get so drunk.  The alternative would have meant telling me about Anton's party, which, to his credit, he had refused to attend!  Poor loyal, yet highly disturbed, Len!

Anton told me that 'their' party was to be held on a weekday night, and would include some of their personal friends. Knowing it would take me longer to travel there and back, than I'd actually spend at their home, he would definitely understand if I chose not to attend.

Shocked both by Anton's collusion in the sabotage of my party as well as by the cold, business-like tone of his voice, I had simply asked for time and date of HIS party, thanked him politely for the invitation, and then hung up. 

My impression of Anton began to falter from the moment he issued that heartless invitation.  I thought I had begun to know him pretty well on our trip. But, apparently, I didn't know him well enough.  If I had, I would have realized that he was being coerced into phoning me, and that his coldness was his attempt at warning me to stay away.   

He needn't have bothered. 
I had no intention of attending Anton's party.   

And that should have been an end to it.  But during those few intervening days, curiosity got the better of me. Having lost my camera and the exposed film in it, I desperately wanted to see the photos Anton had taken for me.  And, of course, I wanted to see him again too, and was curious to meet his lady-friend.

On the day of the party, the nurses were all working various shifts in their northern hospitals, but had mailed Anton their photos along with their apologies.   Our two Aussie drivers were leading another trek through Europe, and so were also absent. And the New Zealand brothers had moved onto greener pastures across the Atlantic. Thus, apart from myself, only George and the other business man from our tour actually attended Anton's party.

I arrived late, parked and locked my moped outside their home, and then rang the doorbell.  The party sounded as if it were in full swing when Anton greeted me at the door, wearing an apologetic smile.  He then led me, somewhat reluctantly, directly into his den by the kitchen at the back of the house.

She was tall, blonde and willowy and pounced on me before I even had time to say hello.
"So YOU are the predatory bitch who slept her way thru Europe with MY husband!" 

GASP!! 
Momentarily flabberghasted, I began by agreeing with her. Yes, we'd slept together - in the same tent - the same bed even - but not in the way she'd meant it, and..... 
HUSBAND?!!
what the #!@&?

You're her HUSBAND?!?!?! I accused, spinning around, glaring at Anton for a few seconds, too stunned and mortified to look at his wife at all.

Anton, at least, had the grace to look guilty.
He'd lied to me, of course, and played me like a fiddle all through Europe. He was so good at it, that I hadn't realized I'd been just a pawn in a game to him. 

Standing before him, in his own home, I finally saw Anton in his true colours for the first time.  And I did not like the person I saw!  I had believed him when Anton told me he was single.  And I had believed him again, when he told me he was just 'living with' a woman.  It was the 70s, a lot of couples hooked up for a while and then moved on, myself included.

Was I really so naive that it had taken sharp words from Anton's wife to slap me back to reality?!  Apparently so.  But I'd also WANTED to believe Anton was telling the truth.  And WANTING to believe him had been my biggest mistake.

Mistake or not, a part of me very much wanted to scratch HIS eyes out, apologize to his wife, then run out of the house and never look back. 

But I still had to accomplish what I had travelled all that way  to do!! So I literally collared Anton and, almost hissing at him, said
"You promised you'd take pictures FOR me, after my camera was stolen in Fes.  So just let me have MY pictures, and I will leave you to enjoy THIS gathering without me."

Then I turned to see his wife, still glaring at me, moving towards a bunch of photos that sat on the tabletop. She looked about ready to combust as she stared down at them.  My eyes followed hers to several 8x10 glossies that showed me, dancing practically naked in the wind atop that Tangier sand dune, at sunrise of our first full day in Morocco.

Grasping the photos in her fist, she waved them in my face, accusing me of deliberately planning to seduce her husband.  Then she promised to burn all Anton's photos rather than let me keep a single trophy.

Seeing those 'whirling dervish' photos made me feel as if I'd just been sucker punched!  

I had truly not noticed Anton hunkered down in those Tangier dunes, secretly taking one lurid photograph after another - of ME!  In black and white, they were very arty, but also quite explicit, since my thin djellaba perfectly silhouetted my dancing form against the rising sun. 

In a flash, I understood the reason for his wife's venomous attack.  
Those photos weren't MY trophies, 
they were HIS! 

Anton's photographic masterpiece was proof positive that this man she adored, her beloved husband, had actively lusted after another woman during his long trip away from her.

She loved Anton, of that I had no doubt.  Yet he had hurt her very deeply - much more than he had hurt me.  

Of course, in her eyes, it was all MY fault.  That's why she had insisted he invite me to her home. I was the unwitting mouse in her vicious game of cat and mouse.

The music tape had stopped, and everyone had become suddenly very still and silent.  The atmosphere in that room was thick enough to cut with a knife. And it was obvious no photos were going to be exchanged on that, or any other, night.   

Again, I felt sick to my stomach and needed to leave.  Right away!

So, with no further ado, I turned on my heel and left Anton, his wife and the others far behind.

Unlocking my moped, I somehow managed to drive myself home, and cry myself to sleep that night.  What a horrendously calculated and painful evening I had endured.

My time on the trip with Anton had been so sweet and tender by comparison. And I had certainly gained from our shared travels. But those gains had seemed all but eradicated in a single evening of deliberate cruelty.

Anton's party was the last time I was to see 
any member of our Moroccan tour group

It took many months to recover from the shock of Anton's betrayals - both of his wife, and of me. So it wasn't till the end of summer that I understood how necessary both the trip and its unsavoury finale had been - for my own growth and my future understanding of human nature.

I had filled the void left by my absent Canadian with Anton's company, and we'd enjoyed our trip together.  But as we were both wounded puppies in the love department (or so I had been led to believe), neither of us was hoping for, or expecting, more than just a shared fun time.

After the trip, I had returned home to the same world that I'd left - minus the electrical blackouts. Hooray!   So I found great solace in working hard to make up for worrying my boss half out of her mind during my absence. And, since she hadn't fired me, I was eager to show my gratitude by working overtime whenever asked.
  
Summer 72
During my walks home through London's parks in those long summer evenings, I was able to examine my emotional relationships with my Canadian and with Anton. And eventually I filtered out whatever rang false and internalized what felt real and true.

I became much stronger after my Morocco trip - physically, emotionally and mentally! And that strength had been due to Anton's unfailing good humour as well as his solicitous care and protection of me.  Because he had shielded, educated and honoured me on that trip, I had regained my lost confidence and was thus better able to face my problems at home upon my return.

Ironic, huh?  

Eventually I forgave Anton - and myself - for the pain we'd caused each other after the trip.  Nobody is perfect.  And yes, he had lied to me.  But I had chosen to believe him, no questions asked.  So I had allowed his lies.

I came to realize that nothing and nobody is perfect, and that we can only do our best.  And that when we know better, we do better (Thank you Oprah!)  And, as long as we are honest about our feelings and willing to learn from our mistakes, we're on the right track.  We just have to learn how to be truthfully gentle with ourselves and each other.

Silently I thanked Anton for being such a fun catalyst for me.  And I
sent him and his wife my heartfelt good wishes for a long, happy and loving life together.  And then I set about expanding my diary memories of our fun times on the road so that I would never forget the valuable lessons they had brought me.

Forty years on.... 
Life has thrown me many, many 
challenges which I have faced with 
hopefulness, 
humour 
and courage,
aided and abetted by the many
experiences and often difficult lessons 
I learned during

"My Road to Morocco"

May your travels also create memories and lessons that last you an entire lifetime! 
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Christobelle's next trip
GRAND  TOUR  of EUROPE 
 13 weeks  * 1976 *  14 Countries  
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
begins March 22, 2013
mark your calendar!

Friday, February 8, 2013

Chapter 15 - Days 19-20 Bordeaux to Paris to London

Day 19 Bordeaux to Paris  (300 miles)
My first night camping alone on this trip was oddly restful, despite the damp weather and damper atmosphere, it being cold and lonely without Anton's cheery presence.

I had fallen into a deep reverie during our mountainous journey out of Spain.  And my inward focus continued as our group breakfasted and struck camp in readiness for our journey through France. The others wisely avoided conversing with me, perhaps sensing my deep need to figure things out for myself.

An hour into our northward journey, my mood unaccountably brightened, and I began to look forwards instead of backwards.  Our tour was right on schedule, yet our amazing drivers still had a few amazing treats in store for us.  

Instead of returning us and the Love Bus to Belgium, as planned, they arranged a wonderful surprise for our group.  We would arrive in Paris that afternoon, and remain there all evening and overnight!  This meant that we were free to explore the City of Love and enjoy one last relaxed communal meal before heading home the next day.

On the following morning, however, a different driver and vehicle would meet us at our Parisian Pension, who would drive us all back to London via the Dover Ferry. 

Eager not to waste any time upon our arrival, we broke the "no eating in LOVE BUS" rule with a lunch of bread, cold meats, apples and cheese, whilst travelling. As a result, we were able to check into our rooms in the City of Lights at just past 3pm.

Our drivers needed to arrange for repairs to the Love Bus, so we were each free to spend a few hours doing whatever we pleased before reuniting at the Pension for one last supper as a group.  The two drivers promised to make all the arrangements for that final meal before re-joining our group later.

The late hour and relentless rain made us reconsider a much anticipated trip up the Eiffel Tower since the view from the top would be all but obscured by low cloud.  And visiting any other Parisian landmark would demand more time than we had that day. Yet none of us was disappointed.

We couldn't believe we were actually in Paris!  
And in the Springtime too!  
How lucky were WE?!!

Despite our short time allocation, there was a lot that we were still able to do and see.  But we had no time to waste!  So we headed, en masse, for the Visitor's Information Office.

PRESS HERE for stunning views of Paris from the Eiffel Tower
photo by kind courtesy of https://twitter.com/YourEiffelTower
Armed with advice and the relevant brochures, the nurses, a couple of the men and I happily stepped onto a waiting open-topped, double-decker bus to go Sightseeing in Paris.

Climbing to the open top deck, we spent the next couple of hours enjoying the sites.

It being the early seventies, our bus tour was unescorted, but the brochures helped to inform us of landmarks along the route.

The Eiffel Tower, for instance is an iron lattice tower was built in 1889 by Gustave Eiffel and, at 324 metres, is the tallest building in Paris and one of the most visited monuments in the world.   

photo by kind courtesy of www.bigbustours.com

 photo by kind courtesy of 
http://kenkaminesky.photoshelter.com/image/I0000w0vrVOi9mRQ

Our bus took us past The Musee du Louvre,
originally a royal fortress, that would take several hours to explore, since the world renowned museum houses a total of 35,000 works of art.

After the Louvre, our bus circumnavigated the Arc de Triomph, this time - thankfully - with a more knowledgeable French driver at the wheel.

photo by kind courtesy of http://www.inspiredinfrance.com
From the Arc de Triomph, we made our way past the cathedral of Notre Dame and L'Hotel des Invalides to Palais Garnier, Paris' Opera House and the Grand Palais, around the Place de la Concorde to the Church of the Madeleine, Trocadero, Place Vendome, Ecole Militaire and Sacre Coeur.

Please press each of the links below, for more information 
about the different Parisian sites we saw.

photo by kind courtesy of http://www.fanpop.com/clubs/france  
photo by kind courtesy of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Les_Invalides
PRESS HERE to see the Palais Garnier Opera House 
photo by kind courtesy of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palais_Garnier     
PRESS HERE to experience the Grand Palais      
photo by kind courtesy of www.telegraph.co.uk
photo by kind courtesy of www.wikipaintings.org
PRESS HERE for info about La Madeleine  photo by kind couresy of http://www.sacred-destinations.com/france/paris
photo by kind courtesy of tourbytransit.com
photo by kind courtesy of http://courses.umass.edu/latour/2010/vendome
 
photo by kind courtesy of en.wikipedia.org/wiki/École Militaire
photo by kind courtesy of commons.wikimedia.org

PRESS HERE for information on Bateau Mouche

Our drivers had organized a surprise dinner cruise for us aboard a Bateau Mouche.  Although nowhere near as fancy as the one shown here, our stalwart craft glided under the bridges of Paris with ease, showcasing the city's history for our still-hungry eyes.

The evening sun made an appearance, just before it set, as we were helping ourselves to the "menu à la carte".

Today's menu is quite extensive, including
starters of Pan-fried slice of foie gras, roasted pears and licorice juice or Tender crab cake, dill and red onions.   
Main course options include Fillet of squab confit with sweet potato and parsnip purée or Pan-seared thick-cut beef with truffled mashed potatoes or Sea bass roasted on its skin with carrot tournedos.  And the  
dessert options include Milk chocolate dome with salted butter caramel, Puff pastry strips and lemon yogurt, Vanilla bavarois with chocolate ganache or a Trio of seasonal cheeses.

We were each able to relax and share our experiences whilst our bateau glided beneath the several gilded bridges of Paris - each a work of art in its own right.

What a thrill it was to glide past the Notre Dame Cathedral and other Parisian landmarks, whilst sipping wine aboard a floating restaurant. For me, this final experience was the perfect way to wrap up our magnificent three-week adventure.


Tomorrow, we would return to 
London and our 'normal' lives, 
but for that one memorable evening, 
j'etais une Parisienne!


Day 20   Paris to London (282 miles)

Morning brought blue skies and warmer temperatures, just in time for us to bid farewell to the City of Lights.  Despite the delectable food, our romantic trip down the Seine had been a bitter-sweet experience for me without Anton to share it.  But I had made the most of it, enjoying the tales my travel companions shared about their trips.

Following a modest continental breakfast at our Pension, we met our new driver and new bus.  Our two regular drivers had unloaded our back packs and personal items onto the new bus, before disappearing to get some much needed repairs done on the Love Bus.  

Happily, we had been able to spend our final evening in Paris, aboard the bateau with them, and had all raised a glass and heartily toasted them for creating such a wonderfully memorable trip for all of us.  

And what a trip it had been!  

From a shaky start, driving in endless circles around the Arc de Triomph, our road had led us through the picturesque wine country of Southern France. The very next day, we encountered Nature's wrath in the form of washed out roads, bridges and campsites in mountainous Basque country. Never daunted, we persisted and within 24 hours were to enjoy Paella and Sangria in Madrid, which was quickly followed by total immersion in the marvels of Toledo.  And then came the piece de resistance, The achingly beautiful Alhambra in Granada, followed by a night on the beach and sunrise over the Mediterranean.  Spain had greeted us with a tantrum but bid us a brief farewell with a smile.

Morocco was a crazy week of exploration, excitement and excellent food.  Despite my unpleasant encounter at the tannery, I had enjoyed myself immensely, swimming in the outdoor pool, haggling in the Medina, seeing and meeting the artisans at work, learning about the national food and culture of this ancient land, all the while being romanced by Anton.  What more could a vibrant young woman want?

Back across the Straits of Gibraltar, we had then driven through the historical cities of Andalusia, en route to the endless party and visual spectacle that was Seville at Feria.  And what a marvelously uplifting time we had all enjoyed there! To this day, I can still manage the basic claps of Flamenco, though I confess my feet no longer manage the steps.

Salamanca was a pleasant surprise, even though I already knew that Spain's educational heritage was extensive and encompassed many centuries. The hotel was a special treat for everyone, even though most spent the night camping.

I was very glad that the rain had stopped for our second visit to San Sebastian.  That city has since become a much loved destination for British holiday goers, ironically for its many hours of sunshine as well as its extensive views of the beautiful Bay of Biscay.

Our return trip through France might have proven quite mundane, had our Love Bus not needed urgent repairs in Paris.  But, since it had, our drivers had turned disaster into opportunity by ensuring that our European excursion ended in HIGH style, in the City of Love. 

But now they, and our stalwart Love Bus, had vanished, never to be seen again!  It was a wild gipsy life our drivers had chosen, but what an exciting way for two Aussies to explore Europe! I would miss their cheery smiles and off-beat viewpoint that was always able to see the upside of any dire situation. 

Our new driver wasted no time in chauffeuring us to Calais, and onto the cross-channel Ferry to Dover.  The 90-minute crossing was the last opportunity for the 10 of us to exchange addresses and phone numbers before reaching England.  

It was far too late for lunch by the time we reached Victoria Station - the starting and ending point of our adventure. So, rather than spend what was left of our cash on what passes for food in British Rail stations, we all opted to go our separate ways, promising to meet when our photos had been developed and printed.

Though the trip itself now 
SEEMED to be over, 
fate still had some bizarre 
twists in store for me.  

But you'll have to wait 
for the Epilogue to 
find out how and why!


*   *   *   *   *
 Coming Soon!

Parties, Photographs and Peculiar People
IN

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