I dreamt that I needed to phone to check which of Stockholm's two domestic airports we needed that day. And it was just as well I did, or we would have chosen the wrong airport and missed our flight to Kiruna.
A few hours later, our SAS flight north left Stockholm via Arlanda Airport and we ate lunch at 25,000 feet. Kiruna is located within the Arctic Circle, about 770 miles (1240 km) north of Stockholm.
A few hours later, our SAS flight north left Stockholm via Arlanda Airport and we ate lunch at 25,000 feet. Kiruna is located within the Arctic Circle, about 770 miles (1240 km) north of Stockholm.
map photo by kind courtesy of steelguru.com
It was a short, but friendly, ride to town, squished together in that taxi. So much so that, by the time we reached Hotel Ferrum, both men had invited us for supper that evening.
photo by kind courtesy of http://www.hrsstatic.com/fotos/0/3/255/255/80
HOTEL FERRUM, KIRUNA, SVERIGE
Our pre-booked room was spacious and airy and had a magnificent view of the mountain and mine. Donna and I changed into jeans and then enjoyed an escorted trip to the town's Iron Ore Mine - the largest deposit of Iron Ore on the planet world.
photo by kind courtesy of www.kirunashotell.se -
The excavation of Kiruna's iron ore is a gigantic engineering feat that, sadly, involves the gradual levelling of the the town's mountain. Our tour took us underground, where we wore hard hats and saw a drill, the size of a house, in operation. It was very impressive but also extremely noisy!
After taking photos of people beside the 8ft. diameter wheels on those huge mining machines, I walked around Kiruna, and breathed in the crisp, cool, clear air that was blowing in from the west. Then, I returned to the Ferrum for a bastu - which is what the Swedes call a sauna.
photo by kind courtesy of barentsobserver.com
Nature does not quietly
surrender her mineral bounty
After taking photos of people beside the 8ft. diameter wheels on those huge mining machines, I walked around Kiruna, and breathed in the crisp, cool, clear air that was blowing in from the west. Then, I returned to the Ferrum for a bastu - which is what the Swedes call a sauna.
photo by kind courtesy of www.tumblr.com
The hotel's unisex bastu was deserted. Located on the top floor, it was the first one I had ever seen that had a window in it - with a view of the mountain. The solstice sun's long flirtation with the horizon, on this longest day of the northern year, made it very easy to lose track of time.
I had travelled a thousand miles already, learning new customs, language basics and currencies along the way. While I welcomed the challenge, there was still far to go, and we had not scheduled much time for relaxation. So I happily surrendered to the restorative dry heat of that deliciously silent bastu. After all the hustle and bustle, being there alone was exactly what my soul had needed.
After returning to my room, I had a quick shower and remained in my towel, allowing my body to cool down naturally whilst folding my now dry lingerie.
So, when Hans opened the door without knocking, and then let himself in, I shrieked in surprise.
The poor man looked as shocked to see me as I was to see him. He immediately turned his back and explained that he just wanted me to have what was in his hand. Keeping my composure, I put on my hotel robe, then bid Hans turn around and show me what it was he had in his hand!
So, when Hans opened the door without knocking, and then let himself in, I shrieked in surprise.
The poor man looked as shocked to see me as I was to see him. He immediately turned his back and explained that he just wanted me to have what was in his hand. Keeping my composure, I put on my hotel robe, then bid Hans turn around and show me what it was he had in his hand!
photo by kind courtesy of http://fleursflorist.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Rose_and_Freesia_Handtied-300x200.jpg
He had brought Donna and me a fragrant vase of pink miniature roses with some fragrant freesia. What a sweet welcome to Lappland!
I was sincerely moved by his flower gift, and thanked him, assuring him that we were both looking forward to having supper with him.
I was sincerely moved by his flower gift, and thanked him, assuring him that we were both looking forward to having supper with him.
Hans then left, but returned a few minutes later to inform us that Bo had to work and was thus unable to accompany us to dinner that night. By way of an apology for breaking the date, he had sent a bottle of wine, which Hans quickly opened.
He poured 3 glasses, then we all toasted to Bo's health and our upcoming evening with Hans before ushering him out of our room so that we could get finish getting ready for dinner!
Donna and I also needed time to recover from the distinct pleasure of receiving both flowers AND wine from two complete strangers! We simply had not expected to be treated like royalty in Kiruna. Who knew that Swedes were so romantic?! Maybe it's their hot Viking blood?!
He poured 3 glasses, then we all toasted to Bo's health and our upcoming evening with Hans before ushering him out of our room so that we could get finish getting ready for dinner!
Donna and I also needed time to recover from the distinct pleasure of receiving both flowers AND wine from two complete strangers! We simply had not expected to be treated like royalty in Kiruna. Who knew that Swedes were so romantic?! Maybe it's their hot Viking blood?!
Our vase of pink roses had alerted me that Donna's
and my stay in Kiruna was sure to be a lot more
meaningful than either of us could have anticipated.
and my stay in Kiruna was sure to be a lot more
meaningful than either of us could have anticipated.
The dining room at the Ferrum Hotel looked like an IKEA store on steroids. It could have comfortably seated several dozen people. And the magnificent floor to ceiling windows faced the town's raison d'être, its mountain and mine.
The furniture was ultra-stylish, reasonably comfortable and very Swedish. There was even a small dance floor with a surprisingly accomplished dance band playing that night.
Hans welcomed Donna and me, pulling both of our chairs out for us. This simple act of courtesy instantly alerted every male there to the fact that at least one of us was potentially available!
photo by kind courtesy of http://whynotbook.com/hotels/view/Scandic-Ferrum-Hotel-Kiruna-Sweden-56388
But around us, things were rapidly becoming quite bizarre! A couple of dozen men had quietly occupied the tables around us. And, when they thought we were not looking, were quite openly leering at Donna and me.
It was obvious that the news of our arrival
had reached the ears of every man in town
since all the iron-men were seated all around us.
I'd half-finished my glass of wine, when a smiling stranger approached our table and politely asked Hans if he might dance with me! Hans wisely deferred to my judgement. And seeing no harm in dancing, I smiled and rose to my feet.
We chatted as the stranger guided me across the floor. He spoke perfect English and, of course, wanted to know why we two ladies were in Kiruna. I explained that I was a university student in Canada and so had wanted to see, with my own eyes, the planet's largest operational iron ore mine.
At the end of our dance, my partner thanked me and returned me to my table and Hans. Donna had also accepted a dance, so poor Hans had been sitting there patiently watching us while awaiting our food orders. He seemed genuinely content with his role as our chaperone.
At the end of our dance, my partner thanked me and returned me to my table and Hans. Donna had also accepted a dance, so poor Hans had been sitting there patiently watching us while awaiting our food orders. He seemed genuinely content with his role as our chaperone.
Hans further explained that for us to refuse to dance, would be considered bad-mannered as all the men were there only because we two young single women were dining there that night!
by kind courtesy of http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lxcy18EDnq1r4k8uuo1_500.png
He spoke the truth! No sooner had Donna and I taken our seats and a quick sip of wine than we received more dance requests. Subsequent invitations followed, as quickly as we were deemed sufficiently refreshed to dance.
Thankfully most of my partners spoke English. Being able to converse with them took my mind off the pain of having my toes - and shoes - so cruelly crushed!
Thankfully most of my partners spoke English. Being able to converse with them took my mind off the pain of having my toes - and shoes - so cruelly crushed!
Without realizing it, Donna and I had injected ourselves into 'testosterone-ville'!! Like most mining towns in the 1970s, Kiruna was comprised primarily of young, strong, healthy males, many of whom regularly spent months at a time separated from their wives and/or families.
We scarcely had time to eat, much less digest our meals. Each man took turns at respectfully approaching our table to ask one or other of us to dance. Some men were flirtatious, others painfully shy and some just hungry for the scent of a woman. Yet all of our partners behaved like perfect gentlemen. Unfortunately, most of them danced like engineers with two left feet!
We scarcely had time to eat, much less digest our meals. Each man took turns at respectfully approaching our table to ask one or other of us to dance. Some men were flirtatious, others painfully shy and some just hungry for the scent of a woman. Yet all of our partners behaved like perfect gentlemen. Unfortunately, most of them danced like engineers with two left feet!
That night of dancing brought me face to face - quite literally - with the intense loneliness that is often experienced by those who work in geographically isolated locations. Most of these men staunchly deny the depths of their loneliness, which is another noble act of sacrifice for their family. Thus their pain and selflessness often goes unnoticed and under-appreciated.
photo by kind courtesy of http://www.fishershotelpitlochry.com/images/dance-weekend-breaks_thumb1.jpg
What a cruel, lonely fate!
We need to honour those men and women
who quietly labour, in emotionally barren conditions, to provide for loved ones
who quietly labour, in emotionally barren conditions, to provide for loved ones
Tack från djupet av mitt hjärta
by kind courtesy of http://cfaithholland.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/your-heart-and-my-heart.jpg?w=300&h=236
by kind courtesy of http://cfaithholland.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/your-heart-and-my-heart.jpg?w=300&h=236
Somewhere between our entree and dessert, as I was pondering the psychological effects of loneliness on the human body, Kurt asked me to dance. I dutifully followed him to the floor, expecting the worst, but was delighted to discover he really could dance the foxtrot!
Both my parents had been keen ballroom dancers, so I had grown up dancing on my Daddy's feet. Dancing with Kurt reminded me of the way it had felt to dance with my now deceased Father. And I enjoyed it so much that, custom or not, I refused to dance with any other partner for the remainder of that night.
Both my parents had been keen ballroom dancers, so I had grown up dancing on my Daddy's feet. Dancing with Kurt reminded me of the way it had felt to dance with my now deceased Father. And I enjoyed it so much that, custom or not, I refused to dance with any other partner for the remainder of that night.
Hans was very good natured about Donna's and my popularity with the other males, thanking us for sharing dinner was him then bidding us both a genteel goodnight when it was over.
Kurt then invited both Donna and me outside to witness the midnight sun for ourselves. After an evening of dancing, we wisely decided against climbing the mountain in our dresses and heels. Instead, we traded a slightly improved solar view, for the opportunity to chat quietly with this knowledgeable man, whilst slowly walking around this now deserted town. Everyone, except us, seemed to be asleep!
Kurt then invited both Donna and me outside to witness the midnight sun for ourselves. After an evening of dancing, we wisely decided against climbing the mountain in our dresses and heels. Instead, we traded a slightly improved solar view, for the opportunity to chat quietly with this knowledgeable man, whilst slowly walking around this now deserted town. Everyone, except us, seemed to be asleep!
My mind rebelled against the sky's being so bright at 11.30 at night. Though the sun was dipping downwards to almost touch the horizon, tonight there would be no sunset at all.
photo by kind courtesy of tripwow.tripadvisor.com
photo by kind courtesy of tripwow.tripadvisor.com
Midnattssolen lyste mjukt färgning molnen rosa, Välkomna Sommaren!
The 24-hour bright sky, following days of non-stop activity, played havoc with all of my senses. How does one get their bearings, when the sun never sets?
Even though I'd helped to consume a few of bottles of wine with and after dinner, I was not in the least bit drunk or sleepy. All that dancing must have exercised the alcohol right out of my system! Donna, on the other hand, was quite weary and so returned to our room.
I chose to spend the rest of that awesome night with Kurt.
I chose to spend the rest of that awesome night with Kurt.
photo by kind courtesy of http://www.eos.ubc.ca/academic/careers/geolengineering.html
In public, being with Kurt had felt more like a one-on-one tutorial than romance! As a Geological Engineer, he was eager to explain all the intracacies of iron ore mining in Kiruna. And since I was already a 3rd year geology student, ours was an intellectual match made in tectonic heaven!But Kurt was also a fit, handsome, and very sexy, divorced, 34-year old Viking man. And I was a fit, divorced, emancipated 27-year old Canadian woman. We knew we had only a few hours to share before I would forever leave Kiruna. So, we did not waste time in being shy!
Though short and sweet, our time together was so compelling that, upon my return to Canada, Kurt and I remained friends and communicated, via snail mail, for many years.
already in love with this country and her people!
Tack för den varmt välkomnande, Kiruna,
och för de underbara minnen
by kind courtesy of jenlemen.com
My crazy adventures in Sweden had only just begun.
for the very best was yet to be!
NEXT WEEK!
June 22-23
Sweden
LULEA, Lappland
Norbotten Museum
Coastal Lappland
STOCKHOLM
Coastal Lappland
STOCKHOLM
Harbour Cruise
The Vasa Warship
Waldemarssude in Djurgarden
Painter Prince Museum
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE - June 22-23 SWEDEN North to South to NORWAY
The Vasa Warship
Waldemarssude in Djurgarden
Painter Prince Museum
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE - June 22-23 SWEDEN North to South to NORWAY
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