Saturday July 10
Montreux, Switzerland
Donna awoke from her long sleep, bright and cheerful and raring to go. Even though she had been feeling quite out of sorts the previous evening, she now felt confident she could manage an entire day of activities.
I did wonder if Donna had exaggerated her symptoms in order to manipulate my decision. But regardless what her agenda might have been, I made a pact with myself that
wherever we travelled,
I would have a marvelous time
Bill had pretty much taken over our schedule during our time in Switzerland, bless him! But we knew we would have to relinquish him soon.
by kind courtesy of www.cartoonstock.com
We would miss his endless stream of information about the places we had visited. Yet I was also looking forward to the Greek Cruise that Donna and I had planned months ago.
Our ship would be waiting for us in Athens next weekend. But first we had to travel there, and that journey, by train, ferry and bus, would take at least a couple of days.
Meanwhile, Bill had one last surprise in store for us.
And he had saved the best for last!
We all bid farewell to the streets of Lucerne and caught a train heading westwards. Bill was most mysterious about our destination, keeping it a complete secret until we had almost arrived. Then, almost casually, he asked if we'd ever been to Montreux before?
Montreux, a pretty town on the north eastern end of Lake Geneva (Lac Leman), has long been a favourite Swiss Riviera summer destination, that was once enjoyed by notables such as Lord Byron and Charlie Chaplin.
Each summer Montreux celebrates different genres of music in its popular annual festivals. And Bill had guided Donna and me here to enjoy the final moments of 10th Montreux Jazz Festival.
by kind courtesy of
Bill was on assignment, taking photos at the Festival. Thus, as soon as he knew that we had found safe accommodation, he bid us each a fond, but speedy farewell, and promptly vanished into the crowd.
His departure was as sudden and unexpected as his arrival had been. Yet his impact on our enjoyment of the Alps was beyond measure.
During our long trip to the boot of Italy, Donna and I would recall all the adventures that Bill had made possible for us.
- Without his intervention, we would not have enjoyed the serenity and beauty of Liechtenstein. We would not have noticed how each garden joins a tapestry of living colour, whose fragrance carries high into the mountains.
- Without Bill, we might not have taken that small guage railway to see the Reichenbach Falls. Even though they were dry during our visit, the scenery along the way was spectacular.
- Without our guide and mentor, we would never have climbed 187 stone steps to meet Frau van Euw in Lucerne, just when we most needed her solicitous care.
- And without Bill, we would not now be at the 10th Montreux Jazz Festival!
by kind courtesy of http://toptravellists.net/wp-content/uploads/2012/03/Montreux-Nature-Landscapes-Switzerland.jpg
You are our angel!
Around lunchtime, Donna and I booked in at the Montreux Youth Hostel, thanked and hugged Bill "au revoir" and then - most importantly - claimed our bunk beds for that night.
The hostel was packed to the rafters with music lovers from all over the world. Some had brought guitars, flutes and other instruments with them and I could hear them playing in an adjacent room
That afternoon I had a happy time learning new songs, making new friends and chatting with others about their lives in different countries. And I discovered that, no matter where we are from, or where we've grown up, we're more alike than different from one another, in that music brings us all together.
While doing dishes, we met two French girls who had also suffered the same debilitating stomach virus that had assailed Donna. Unlike us, they carried effective anti-diarrhea medicine, which they generously offered to shared with us. Donna declined, but I happily accepted two of their 'wonder-pills' - just in case!
Towards sunset, Donna and I joined a slowly-moving human throng snaking its way towards town. Everyone's soul wanted to stroll at dusk in this "Swiss Riviera" town, to enjoy how that warm, gentle lakeside evening coaxed the fragrance from each exotic bloom just for them...
The day had been hot and humid, but the night was magical and enticing, perfect for listening to music. It had occurred to me that, on my limited budget, I might not be able to buy a ticket for any of the venues. But where there was a will, there would be a way. And I definitely had a will!
One cannot take advantage of an opportunity unless one is there, in person, to greet it.
Knowing this to be true, I implored the god of music to thrill me with an opportunity.
by kind courtesy of http://shareasimage.com/service/quotes/pro/06-11-12/to-travel-hopefully-is-a-better-thing-than-to-arrive.png
Donna decided to tag along with the French girls, so we agreed to meet back in the hostel dormitory later. I was thus free to wander around the perimeter of the buildings, perchance to find an unlocked door.
To my amazement and delight, I discovered that every EXIT door had been thrown open for the comfort of performers and audience alike.
I joined a number of tie-dyed tourists, crowding around an open doorway, soaking in the silken sounds of a sexy saxophone softly wafting towards us.
And it wasn't only music wafting through the air that evening.
Between sets, I searched for an alternate venue that might allow me to see, as well as hear, the talented performers. But as I passed a large, white TV truck-trailer, I stumbled over some thick electrical cables, that were invisible in the growing darkness.
Losing my footing I braced for a fall, when two hands grabbed me around my waist and set me on my feet again. I turned to thank my rescuer, only to find my knees buckling under me.
He was French, dark-haired, green-eyed, not too tall, and totally gorgeous! He worked inside that big white TV trailer whose snaking electrical cable had "introduced" us. His job was to help broadcast the show, live, to millions of viewers in France.
We talked animatedly during the break, then, against all regulations, he invited me inside the trailer, to listen to and watch the the rest of that night's show on his monitor.
He led me to a swivel leather chair, put headphones over my ears and then set to broadcasting the show.
I was in 7th heaven - listening to the best jazz music via the best technical equipment available. And knowing that the musicians were playing literally a few meters from me added a deliciously piquant flavour.
When the broadcast ended, I enthusiastically thanked Andre' for inviting me to listen to the best concert ever with him. Then I floated back to the hostel with several, equally ecstatic back-packers, who also had special permission, from the hostel authorities, to be out late for the festival.
It was 2 am when I crept into my dorm room. Donna looked like she had been sleeping for hours. Within minutes, my head hit my pillow, and though I thought myself far too excited to sleep, I slept like a log.
Apollo had indeed rewarded me gently for my boldness - as gently as a god can!
About a mile from Montreux, eastwards along the north-east coast of Lac Leman lies the Castle of Chillon.
The castle consists of about 100 independent buildings
that were connected to become the cohesive building it is today.
Whilst standing in the dungeon of Chillon, I had a most unsettling experience.
by kind courtesy of http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4799289029_b92af55fc7.jpg
by kind courtesy of http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4096/4799289029_b92af55fc7.jpg
I had entered the dungeon alone, and was standing still, waiting for my eyes to adjust to the gloom. Tall narrow windows cut into the thick stone permitted very little light into the room.
Outside, the afternoon temperature had risen well into the nineties. But in this place, there was a permanent chill, as if the devil had drained all the light and goodness from the stones themselves.
I shivered inspite of myself.
Nobody else was in that dungeon with me. At least, nobody that I could see. Yet I had a strong impression that I was being studied very carefully.
My first instinct was to turn and run away from there. Yet my feet walked determinedly towards one particular stone column. There my eyes fell on the heavy rusted iron circlet to which prisoners were once chained.
With my palms flattened against this column, a 'rush of ancient memories' flooded into my consciousness. Again, my instinct was to disconnect and vacate this premises. But a hand on my shoulder stopped me.
I could feel deep emotions in that hand grip, yet there was no physical hand to be seen. The pain, isolation, loneliness and despair had finally found someone who could 'hear' it's anguished cry - or in my case, 'feel' it.
An energy had 'found' me, but was not interested in me, as a person, only in my ability to 'read' it.
It meant me no harm, but had apparently needed to 'vent'. And I had been available.
Feeling as wrung out as a dishrag, I left Chillon Castle after visiting the dungeon. My heart went out to the trapped soul who was still suffering in limbo in that place. And I prayed he would find peace. Then, suddenly, I could not bear to be indoors any longer. I needed to cleanse in sunshine.After what felt like forever, I was able to let go of that column and make my way out of the dungeon. After conveying its message, the 'entity' had completely released my consciousness. But the experience remains as fresh in my memory today as when it happened, 37 years ago.
I joined Donna near the entrance, close to the washroom, where she had spent the entire time. Though her stomach had finally settled, she had not felt confident enough to risk a long tour without having a bathroom close by.
by kind courtesy of http://mappery.com/maps/Jungfrau-Grindelwald-region-summer-map.jpg
We walked back to Montreux and caught our first train south-east through Valais to Brig.
From Brig we changed to a small guage railway to travel through the Bernese Oberlandover to Spiez and then it was back to the main line for the final trip into Interlaken.
Both of us were grateful for the efficiency and cleanliness of Swiss trains, especially their immaculate bathrooms!
Along the way, we met two fellows from Toronto who invited us to share a picnic lunch with them, in Grindelwald, under the Jungfrau.
By the time we arrived at our rural destination, a storm was threatening. So we all took shelter in a nearby barn and enjoyed our picnic there instead.
The view from this barn was quite spectacular.
Happy, happy cows!
EIGER MONCH JUNGFRAU
by kind courtesy of
http://www.nationsonline.org/maps/switzerland-admin-map.jpg
After lunch, we bid farewell to Earl and Dave and took a train back to Interlaken, from where we strolled the 5 km to Interlaken Youth Hostel.
At the Youth Hostel, our happiest discovery was their pay laundry machines. It was ridiculous how delighted we were not to have washed our clothes by hand and propped them on chairs hoping they'd dry overnight. When you travel, small conveniences mean a lot!
Monday July 12 Interlaken
After a lazy breakfast, Donna and I strolled back through tree-lined lanes, to Interlaken Station for our connection to Lucerne.
We stopped at Meiringen again, but this time were not tempted to visit the still dry Reichenbach Falls.
Instead, we ate an early lunch, then re-boarded the train to the town of Stans, close to Lake Lucerne. For a change of pace, we decided to take a ferry ride to a small cafe along the shoreline that served a most welcome cup of English tea.
Though quite incongruous, I found it very restorative to sip tea from china cups whilst exulitng in the picturesque lake and mountain views.
By the time we boarded the train to Lucerne later that day, I was ready to shop. We had been warned that we might not be able to procure more film for our cameras in Southern Italy or Greece. So I stocked up on that, as well as some hard fruit and bottled water for our journey south. And, on a whim, I bought a stars and stripes bikini to mark the Bicentennial year of Canada's nearest neighbour.
Monday July 12 Interlaken
After a lazy breakfast, Donna and I strolled back through tree-lined lanes, to Interlaken Station for our connection to Lucerne.
by kind courtesy of
http://untourscafe.com/photo/the-old-church-in-meiringen
Instead, we ate an early lunch, then re-boarded the train to the town of Stans, close to Lake Lucerne. For a change of pace, we decided to take a ferry ride to a small cafe along the shoreline that served a most welcome cup of English tea.
Though quite incongruous, I found it very restorative to sip tea from china cups whilst exulitng in the picturesque lake and mountain views.
By the time we boarded the train to Lucerne later that day, I was ready to shop. We had been warned that we might not be able to procure more film for our cameras in Southern Italy or Greece. So I stocked up on that, as well as some hard fruit and bottled water for our journey south. And, on a whim, I bought a stars and stripes bikini to mark the Bicentennial year of Canada's nearest neighbour.
http://www.cartoonstock.com/newscartoons/cartoonists/rmg/lowres/rmgn214l.jpg
Before boarding our train in Switzerland, we had ensured our couchettes for the Italian leg of our journey. At only 10 Sw. Fr. each, ($4 CDN), they promised us a long rest during a day-long journey.
Then we'd treated ourselves to a fine restaurant meal in Lucerne before catching the evening commuter train to Milan.
Finally able to relax, knowing we had only one final transfer to manage before travelling to the heel of Italy, Donna and I cracked open a bottle of wine on the train.
Italy would be the 11th country we'd visited in less than one month on our Grand Tour. That, alone, was worth celebrating!
In true 'European Style', we split a bottle of German Liebfraumilch, whilst travelling from Switzerland to Italy. Donna had, wisely, remembered to pack her Swiss Army Knife, complete with corkscrew!
by kind courtesy of
http://www.clickndrink.co.uk/shop/products/liebfraumilch-schmitt-sohne-qba-white-wine-75cl.htm#.UcP1QTs3srU
Mind you, we had no wine glasses. But one gets used to handling those flimsy conical paper cups after spilling the first two or three refills. I probably spilled more than I drank on that trip. But the wine we did manage to drink, plus our clumsiness with those glasses just made us both laugh hysterically. But to this day, I have no idea why!
By the time our train pulled into Milan Central about 10.30 pm, our excesses had made us both feel rather fragile. So we sought refuge from the crowd, which is not easy to do as that enormous station was still busy, even that close to midnight.
We had anticipated sleeping off the worst of our night of debauchery. But we had failed to realize that we'd traded the efficient cleanliness of Swiss transport for an Italian train. Nothing was as we might have expected it to be in Switzerland.
But you will have to wait till next time to find out why!
Next Week
Milan to Brindisi
Reservation Hassles
Our bodyguards
Adriatic Coast
Brindisi to Athens
Ferry Feast
Esmerelda Lounge
Corfu
Pool Disaster
No comments:
Post a Comment