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Friday, January 25, 2013

Chapter 14: Day 17-18 Salamanca to San Sebastian to Bordeaux

Chapter 14 - Day 17  Salamanca to San Sebastian 250 miles
After a wonderfully relaxing sleep, Anton and I were the only ones who were rested enough to be animated the following morning.  We woke early but prolonged our enjoyment by breakfasting at the hotel before seeking out our weary travel mates.

Our destination was San Sebastian, a coastal town 250 miles to the north east, on the Bay of Biscay.  Most of our companions slept through that journey, which allowed Anton and me a peaceful day of scenery watching together, as our Love Bus bridged the distance.

We did not stay at the same campsite that had welcomed us during our first visit to San Sebastian!  It was closed, understandably, considering a goodly portion of the upper mountainside now covered it.  Our drivers had successfully located an alternate site, that overlooked the ocean and was also open for business.  And most of our group stayed there overnight.

Having enjoyed a wonderful night's sleep on real beds in Salamanca, Anton and I decided our bodies required continued comfort and ease.  So he found us both a room in a clean and comfortable 'pension' in San Sebastian.


Sensing that this would be our last opportunity to enjoy uninterrupted time together, we shunned the group's company and ate one last private supper together, at a local restaurant. We then spent the evening quietly sipping wine and re-living all of the wonderful things we'd done, places we'd seen and memories we'd created on our very special 'hippie' trip.


From the bottom of my heart, I thanked Anton for being a kind, sensible and caring gentleman who had tried so hard to protect me from bodily harm during our trip. We had had a glorious adventure so far, experiencing so many wonderful places, cultures, and people in an amazingly short period of time.


He had also been a wonderful tonic for my doldrums. And he brought out the best in me, as I sensed I had in him, most of the time anyway.  I told him, truthfully, that I would never forget the sweetness and enthusiasm with which he had shared his considerable architectural knowledge with me, and how lucky we all were that he had been there to keep up group morale whenever it flagged.

I was grateful to him for minding his manners and always acting like a gentleman towards me, even though I’d flirted madly with him and knew that he’d really wanted more than just my 'friendship'.  I also thanked him for the opportunity to earn (with my bargaining skills) those many souvenirs and gifts with which he had showered me, and which would forever remind me of this wonderful trip that would be abruptly ending in a few days' time.

Though we both knew that we would soon return to our 'real' lives, we would always have this trip as a beacon of happiness, should our future lives ever seem dark or hopeless. This trip would serve to remind us what magnificent, strong and luminous beings we were as young adults.

I then confided in Anton about my deep sorrow at my failed relationship with my Canadian man; about my feelings of inadequacy in my new job; and my antipathy about my recent move to a new neighbourhood where I was now the stranger. And, more for my own illumination than his, I explained how these inner stresses had been magnified by blackouts and loneliness - all of which had precipitated my impulsive booking of this trip to Morocco, mere hours before it had departed.

Anton listened in silence, nodding as I illuminated each point. And when I asked why he had not seemed surprised by anything I told him, he confessed that he already knew much of it since I had apparently talked in my sleep!   

It took him long enough to mention that! 

In his turn, Anton then confessed to me that he had been living with the same woman for more than two years before booking this trip.  As an architect, he had yearned to see and experience different cultures and the buildings they created. Yet, because his lady disliked travelling outside of Britain, they had never taken a foreign trip together.

Eventually, frustrated by her inability to share something so vital to his well-being, Anton had booked this overland trip to Morocco without her. She had not been pleased, of course. But travelling slowly was his preferred way to deepen his understanding and appreciation of a foreign culture and its many styles of architecture.

He had not expected to meet anyone on this trip who would share his same depths of passion for art and architecture. And yet our paths had collided and we had become each other's magic catalyst for change!  And we were still both in awe of that small miracle. 

Once back in England, we would go our separate ways and likely never see each other again.  And perhaps that was how it needed to be. 

Anton had no idea what kind of reception he would receive when he returned to the North London home he shared with his girlfriend.  And I now knew that I had a lot of thinking to do about what I wanted to accomplish in my life.  Only then would I know the direction my life was to take, and how I would 'make it so'.

Because it had been the elephant in the tent, Anton and I had been forced to accept and face our fascination for each other head on, and without pretense. Animal magnetism had drawn us to together, its power undeniably seductive and persistent.

Under different circumstances, our sleeping in such close proximity, night after night, might have precipitated much more than just respectful togetherness. But neither one of us was prepared to jettison our precious new friendship for the sake of a fling. We simply wouldn’t risk the passion because we were both reluctant to lose each other's respect by making promises that we'd couldn't keep in the light of day.  

Holiday romances are, by their nature, ephemeral. But by remaining conscious of the deeper needs of the other, we’d each been able to enjoy our holiday flirtation without losing ourselves, or each other, to the allure of 'forever'.

Had we crashed and burned that last night together, it might have spoiled all the memories we had just created, and now treasured. So we sipped wine and talked till we fell asleep, gently cradled in each other's arms, two carefree strangers, delighted that we had found each other, if only for the duration of this three-week trip.

Though our own compatible energies were protected by the time warp of our trip, an ocean of discordant energy awaited each of us back home, and we both knew it.  

 Chapter 14 - Day 18 San Sebastian to Bordeaux  150 miles
photo by kind courtesy of judybellwatercolors.com
The next morning, I awoke to find a single pink rose on my pillow, and next to it a note that read: 
Thank you for all you are, and for all you have inspired in me.
Meeting and being with you these last weeks was a joy that I never expected, nor thought I ever deserved. Being and talking with you has given me the courage to face my life head on.  So I have decided to leave the tour and catch a flight back to London today, to sort things out at home, one way or the other.  Wish me luck!
Forgive me for not waking you to say goodbye, you were sleeping so peacefully I didn't have the heart to disturb you.
Thanks again, my precious friend, for choosing this particular Tour so that we could meet; for always being your REAL self; and most of all,  for creating such beautiful forever memories with me.
love always, A
p.s. When printed, I will send photos of our trip to you, via the Overland Tour Company.

After days of waking before dawn, I could not believe that on this, of all mornings, I’d slept in!

I sighed and smiled through my tears reading his note over and over again, because I knew what he said was true.  Anton was also a joy that I had also never expected nor thought I would ever deserve.  And now he had left my life as suddenly as he had entered it, a mere 18 days earlier. 

I would miss Anton's winning smile, his quirky humour and his complete obsession with photography, art and architecture.  But in a very real way, his idiosyncrasies and the lessons they taught would always be with me.  And, in my heart, so would he.

Dressing, I gathered my few belongings, and with rose in hand, slowly made my way back to the Love Bus. There I discovered that, earlier that morning, Anton had collected his backpack and sleeping bag, and bid everyone farewell before departing for the airport and his plane to England. 

During our journey to Bordeaux, I came to realize that Anton must have booked his plane fare to London from San Sebastian while we were still in Salamanca.  I wasn't sure how to feel about that realization.  My emotions were just too fresh and raw to trust.  So I let it all simmer, hoping I'd understand more later.

We all missed Anton, in our own way, on our return trip through the Pyrenees to Bordeaux. Everyone seemed a little more pensive and self-absorbed than before.  But even George and Len seemed to understand that I was currently rather fragile and they should try hard not to irritate me more than usual. 

An insecure part of me felt horribly abandoned when Anton left.  And while it was true that I'd now have to pitch my own tent for the next couple of nights, that fact alone did not explain the depths of my very mixed feelings about him, or about his current living situation. 

As the bus climbed higher and higher through the mountains, my reflections grew deeper and deeper. By the time we neared our destination I had become aware of many unresolved feelings of abandonment lingering from childhood days. Those same feelings had re-surfaced when my beloved boyfriend had suddenly left for Canada in February.  And now that Anton had also left so abruptly, those ugly feelings of rejection had surfaced once again!

Though young in years, I already knew that when something we don't like surfaces again and again in our life, we have to find out why, if we are ever to find peace within ourselves. 

I found it slightly ironic that the very method of Anton's departure had given me both the time and the space I'd needed to identify the true underlying cause of my misery. 


Now all I needed was a solution. But before I could come up with one, we had arrived at our Bordeaux campsite.  I had never been any good at setting up a tent and was dreading doing it alone now.  So it came as a complete shock when Len -without saying a word- took it upon himself to set up my tent for me, a discrete distance from his own.

I was flabbergasted, but made a point of graciously thanking the man I'd thought of all these days as just a rather sullen scholarly stalker.  It seems the people on this trip still had the ability to surprise me.  And I rather enjoyed knowing that!

 Coming Soon!
Realizations, Reality Checks and Rain
in 
Section 3 - Chapter 15 
Bordeaux to Paris to London

Friday, January 18, 2013

Chapter 13 - Days 15-16 Seville to Salamanca

Chapter 13 - Day 15 Seville
After too few hours of sleep, I joined my fellow travellers for a light breakfast, during which I profusely apologized for causing them such distress yesterday.  I then suggested a day of activities, based on the information and knowledge I had gleaned during my day at Seville's Feria.

With their approval, I began with a little background information about the Fair.

For your enhanced enjoyment, there are pertinent links
in each section, that will open in separate tabs.

Every Spring, several streets, in the centre of the Andalusian city of Seville, close down and a tent-city is erected that (by 2012) draws over one million people each year. La Feria de Abrilliterally means the Seville’s Fair or April Fair.

What began, in 1847, as a cattle trading fair, has evolved, over the years to become an internationally known celebration of Bullfighting, Flamenco and fun. Seville is considered to be Spain's cultural epicenter of flamenco culture and music.

When is the Feria?
The fair officially begins two weeks after Easter, at midnight on the Monday, and runs for six days, ending on the following Sunday.  Easter always occurs on the first Sunday following the full moon, while the Sun is in the zodiac sign of Aries. The dates of this fair thus vary from year to year, but usually occur sometime in April.

Where does the fun happen?
The Seville Fair is located in the fair zone called the Real de la Fería along the Guadalquivir River.  A temporary “tent city” is born on a rectangular piece of land that measures one mile by 700 yards across 12 streets.  

SEVILLE FERIA 
(click the above link for a short You-tube of the Seville Feria)
12 noon 
The Parade
Each day at noon, the fiera begins with the parade of carriages and riders carrying Seville's leading citizens which make their way to the bullring, La Real Maestranza, where the bullfighters and breeders meet.

After the parade, individual horses and their riders roam the streets till the sun goes down and the real party begins. 

Men and women are resplendent in their traditional costumes, and even the young ones dress up for the occasion, whether or not they are on horseback.

All day 
Casetas
photo by kind courtesy of puntoencuentrocomplutense.es
The famous fair features thousands of individual casetas (tents) that divide the land into different dance halls and private areas.  They are often set up as bars and decorated with lanterns, paper flowers, light bulbs, photographs, paintings, mirrors, lamps and more. Each caseta has its own style and competes to earn a prize.

A well known caseta is called “Er 77” and is famous for pouring wine from buckets and having cots available for naps.  The "Los Duendes de Sevilla" (The Goblins of Seville), named after a painting by Alvarez Quintero, is another famous tent in Seville’s Fair. There are many other different themed tents from various groups including left wing politics, anarchists and much more. 

The casetas are usually hosted by wealthy families from Sevilla, night clubs, trades union, political parties, or city organizations. Every tent is set up differently with a unique atmosphere and different customs.

Access to most of the tents is 'by invitation only' but some are open to the public so that the many tourists and locals who do not have connections in high places can still enjoy the April Fair. Visitors roam around the fairgrounds until they find an open tent with a good vibe in which to enjoy a drink, watch performances and experience the atmosphere.
The above information is gleaned from 
http://www.spanishunlimited.com/spain/culture/2012/1/feria-de-abril-seville  

All Afternoon
The Bullring
 The Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza de Caballería de Sevilla (Royal Cavalry Armory of Seville) is the oldest bullring in Spain.  During the annual Feria de Abril in Seville, it is the site of one of the most well-known bullfighting festivals in the world.  

3pm
This link explains the origins and history of the bullfight which begins daily at 3pm, for those who were wealthy, or well-connected enough to procure tickets to this even well ahead of time.

This link shows the order in which the bullfight ritual is conducted.

All day 
La Feria of Abril is accompanied by men and women dressed up in their finery, ideally the traditional "traje corto" (short jacket, tight trousers and boots) for men and the "faralaes" or "trajes de flamenca" (flamenco style dress, see flamenco) for women. The men traditionally wear hats (or sombreros) called "cordobés".

All day 
The music and dance of the Feria reveal the gypsy heart of Andalusia. But mastering the grace and exciting fluidity of Flamenco  takes skill and practice and is thus not accomplished in a single evening.

Seville has its own version of Flamenco, known as Sevillianas, which is danced with unselfconscious abandon in many of the casetas, especially as day turns into night.

Also click here  for a wonderful Sevillanas flamencas performance by Saura, Merche Esmeralda, Manolo Sanlúcar.

All day 
  Hell's Street Amusement Fair 
If an adrenaline rush is required, the amusement park called Hell's Street is on site.
photo by kind courtesy of http://www.seville-traveller.com/seville-feria.html 
They say that ignorance is bliss, and the previous day, I had certainly been blissfully unaware of just how extensive the Fair grounds were, once I'd lost sight of my group.  

So, today, I was determined that everyone else should have as happy a time as I had already enjoyed in Seville. To that end, I suggested a day's itinerary, based on information gleaned while visiting the private caseta till the wee small hours. 

All day 
 Refreshments
photo by kind courtesy of spanish-living.com 
The most common beverage drunk in during the Seville Fair is Spanish sherry wine, very famous in southern Spain. Often, to battle the heat of April in Seville, the Jerez sherry, or manzanilla wine, is mixed with 7-up or sprite to produce a drink known as rebujito. This link is a video that shows you how to make these cocktails yourself. 

The most common food served at Feria is tapas, which are a wide variety of appetizers or snacks in Spanish cuisine.  They may be cold (such as mixed olives and cheese) or warm (such as chopitos, which are battered, fried baby squid).

 After Dark 
All-night revellers devote their time to socializing while eating, drinking and dancing. The Feria "party all night" philosophy and stamina is amazingly contagious!

Our Love Bus group, that had splintered into smaller groups of 2 or 3, gathered in the evening, in the same caseta that had invited me to their private party the previous day.  The wonderful family there remembered me, and extended a warm welcome to my companions for a wonderful evening of merriment, feasting and dancing, as their honoured guests.  And a good time was had by all. Thus, it was almost dawn before our somewhat inebriated, and extremely tired, group stumbled back to camp to collapse fully-clothed into our tents!


Chapter 13 - Day 16 Seville to Salamanca
photo by kind courtesy of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salamanca
It was not till early next afternoon that our somewhat subdued and still very tired bunch packed up the Love Bus and headed towards North Western Spain.  With Portugal less than 100 miles to the west, our journey took us out of Andalusia, northwards through Extramadura and into Castille and Leon  to the ancient university town of Salamanca
Photo by kind courtesy of http://fatherdadman.wordpress.com 
 After two weeks of camping, and an excess of revelry the previous day, both Anton and I desperately needed a night without camping - preferably in a large, clean and comfortable bed with a proper mattress.  So Anton, whom I discovered also had a knack of making the best deals, sought, found and booked the two of us into a hotel room for a mere $10 for the night.

The hotel itself was large, modern, warm, clean and comfortable,  with plenty of spare rooms, should our companions have chosen to join us.  

$10 was, by 1972 British standards, a very inexpensive option to camping. Yet Anton and I were the only ones in our group to avail ourselves of this rare opportunity to luxuriate and properly relax our bodies, mind and spirit after the rigours of Seville's Feria.

Our room was palatial, with a wonderfully intricate mosaic floor in both the bedroom and the adjoining bathroom. After setting up their tents in the adjoining campsite, our travelling companions visited us, for supper - and simply to enjoy being indoors out of the weather.  We all had fun sharing our more risque' Feria stories as we guzzled Spanish wine and picnicked together on that huge floor.

Here in Northern Spain,  the weather felt considerably colder than in Seville. And, to our chagrin, it had also begun to rain again.  With great generosity and amiability, Anton and I suggested that each person might like to bring their own towel and a change of clothes to our room, so that they could warm up by taking advantage of copious amounts of hot water in the shower of our ridiculously huge hotel bathroom.  Needless to say everyone showed up for that golden opportunity!

Our bedroom was equally as gigantic as our bathroom, spotlessly clean and tastefully decorated with TWO huge king-sized beds, that looked like they could sleep our entire gang.  So Anton and I invited all of them - and their freshly laundered bodies - to spend the night there with us.   

But at 11pm, just as we were all getting comfortable on those beds, the manager personally arrived at our room, and invited the others to book their own rooms, or kindly leave his premises! Had we failed to eject our travel companions, we too would have been asked to leave the hotel. 

Having no choice in the matter, we sadly sent our groaning group back out into the elements, to sleep in their decidedly chilly, rain-sodden tents.  But Anton and I refused to feel any guilt, as we climbed into one enormous bed a-piece, and luxuriated in a much-needed deep, relaxing and refreshing sleep.

 Coming Soon!
antipathy, acrimony and abandonment 
in 
Section 3 - Chapter 14
 Salamanca - Bordeaux 

Friday, January 11, 2013

Chapter 12 - Days 14:
Estepona to Seville

Chapter 12 - Day 14 Estepona to Seville  (162 miles)

We had only just secured our tents atop the Love Bus when the roar of the beach-sweeper approached. Dawn was now half an hour earlier than on our previous visit to this beach. Learning from our lessons of last time, we headed to the kitchen for a regenerative breakfast before resuming our journey.  

Our drivers had been grateful for my ingenuity in bartering my watch for food, during out outward journey to Tangier.  But we were now in Spain, where less bartering and more paying of pesetas was the norm.  So we were all glad to start the day with warm coffee and breakfast under our belts.
Phoenician Ship photo by kind courtesy of lacornamusa.com
We had been scheduled to continue our tour of Andalusia in Malaga, the 2800 year old seat of power politics, originally established by the Phoenicians in Southern Spain. 

But the majority of our group was eager to see a bullfight! And the best bullring in Spain was reputed to be in Seville, a mere 150 miles north west of Estepona.  

Though our Love Bus at first headed eastwards along the Mediterranean coastline, towards Malaga, we did not stop there.  Instead we skirted the city of Marbella, taking the road that led us northwards into the coastal mountains.

photo by kind courtesy of myitchytravelfeet.com
About 60 miles from Marbella, we discovered the picturesque town of  Ronda, known for its rock paintings, and also for its role during the Spanish Inquisition. 

photo by kind courtesy of rusticblue.com
We stopped midway for lunch at Zahara de la Sierra,  originally a Moorish outpost, overlooking the valley. Situated between Ronda and Seville, it was a perfect location and site for a fortress castle.  And its remains can still be seen.

By the time we reached Utrera and had seen the farms where the fighting bull  are bred, interest in seeing an actual bullfight was growing.  
photo by kind courtesy of 3gbk.net   





The bull-fighting aspect of Spanish culture saddened me, because I didn't - and don't - think of bull sacrifice as entertainment. But, I was part of this tour and, since majority rules, our drivers said they would look for the famous bullring, when we reached Seville. And it was housed in a magnificent building.
 photo by kind courtesy of viajarasevilla.com
This Sevillian edifice is the oldest bullring in the world, and reputed to be the finest in Spain. 

When we got to Seville, however, our drivers discovered that the bullring was CLOSED, apparently due to the Spring Celebrations.
 photo by kind courtesy of luminous-landscape.com
By serendipity, it seems that we had arrived right in the middle of Seville's Annual April Feria (fair).

 Y E S ! 

We lost no time in finding our campsite and setting up our tents. Then, like the Pied Piper, I joyfully led everyone, including my faithful bodyguard, Anton,  into the streets with the rest of Seville. 

The idea was to spend a few carefree hours, enjoying the fair, and then return to the campsite to sleep.  With lots of food and drink on sale everywhere, we unanimously chose not schedule a formal supper together that night.

Enjoying the Feria together had been my sincere plan.  I had, however, managed to zig while the rest of the group zagged.  And, as a result, I totally lost sight of all of them within a few minutes. 

Having no way to locate them in that crowd, (cell phones did not yet exist) I did briefly consider returning to the campsite to wait.  That, of course, would have been the responsible thing to do.  
But...but...but... 
 there was this 
 REALLY  GROOVY 
 street party   happening! 

So, being a highly impulsive, and somewhat reckless, young woman, I indulged myself by partying with Sevillian locals ALL that evening, and into the wee small hours of morning. Despite the language barrier, and a few pangs of guilt concerning the whereabouts of the rest of my group, I really enjoyed myself!
photo by kind courtesy of andalucia.com
There was so much to learn, and so many foods to sample that just walking up one side of the fun-filled street and then back down the other side, took several hours.

All the streets were lined with temporary tents called casetas, each featuring a different aspect of this country's musical, dance and artistic   heritage.

At one caseta, I learned the art of  Spanish clapping, and at the next the rudiments of Sevillana a popular flamenco-style dance that originated in Seville.  It felt a bit odd to be dancing in such a sensuous and feminine manner whilst wearing jeans and a t-shirt, but nobody seemed to mind at all!

Everyone else looked resplendent in their traditional Spanish dress, most with their seemingly bottomless glass of manzanilla sherry or golden beer.  Even I had acquired a glassful of the thirst-quenching beverage!

Those walking or dancing seemed to use alcohol as fuel.  But, if they were as tipsy as I was becoming, I did wonder how the ones riding horses managed to stay upright and look so magnificent in their traditional costumes  
photo by kind courtesy of  lostgirlsworld.com
All the streets were crowded, and everyone was having a really good time.  Wonderful Andalusian music, with its gypsy passion, filled the blossom scented air.  Any dissension was thus drowned out, though most people seemed genuinely relaxed and happy just to be there.

I felt very much at home in Seville, and was so delighted to be out and about without a chaperone that I became totally unaware of time passing.   

After a long and difficult Winter, it felt like I was being embraced by a warm and glorious Spring

At a very deep level, I could feel the city's passionate heart beating.  It might have been my own heart beat, of course.  Like everyone else, I did consume rather a lot of wine!

As the night wound down and the crowd thinned, I began looking for the road that led to our campsite. A female voice from a nearby caseta then called out, in English, asking if I'd enjoyed my time at the Feria.  

The owner of the voice was dressed from head to toe in traditional costume. When I walked towards her, she smiled and handed me a cup of hot chocolate, then invited me to share tapas with her and her family inside their caseta.

Three hours later I rolled back to the campsite, where I found my camp-mates still awake.  They had been very worried about me and some had actually formed a search party to look for me.  Ooops!

During that afternoon and evening, the rest of the group had discovered that the bullring had indeed been open during the evenings of the Feria.  But since ticket prices for this prime time event were way beyond our budget, our drivers had simply told us it was closed. 

Those saddest about not attending a Seville Feria bull-fight, were also the ones who grumbled the loudest about my 'disappearance', being only too willing to dump ALL their disappointment at my feet.  Even Anton was so upset, he hardly spoke to me at all.

Yet they had every right to be annoyed with me!  

I had acted selfishly by not returning to the campsite the moment I had lost sight of my group.  For, while I was enjoying a grand time at the Feria, the rest of my travelling group had wasted one entire precious day of THEIR holiday in fruitlessly looking for me.  
photo by kind courtesy of weddingbee.com
 Oh Dear!! 
 I really blew it this time! 

I felt wretched that I had been so inconsiderate of my travel-mates.  And I specifically regretted causing such worry, especially after they had been so kind to me after the tannery event in Morocco.  

So, I immediately and profusely apologized for my thoughtless, asking those still awake for their forgiveness, which they grudgingly gave me. Then I promised to make it up to them for disappearing and spoiling their day.  
 
After the many restrictions involved in touring Morocco, an uninterrupted day of fun was exactly what I had already enjoyed - and it was exactly what everyone else also needed to experience.

And, after spending time with my new friends, I could hardly wait for them to discover what FUN really felt, looked, sounded and tasted like in Seville!

 Coming Soon!
\:/
\:/
\:/
A day at the Seville Feria
 and a night to remember!
in 
Section 3 - Chapter 13
Seville to Salamanca

Friday, January 4, 2013

Chapter 11 - Days 13:
Fes to Estepona
(177 miles)

Chapter 11 - Day 13  Fes to Estepona  (150 miles)

The sun was still below the horizon when we packed up our tents the next morning.  We'd all awakened early, despite our jam-packed final day of events and experiences in Fes. Our visit to the Chief of Police's opulent Riad, on the previous evening, had been so luxurious and restful, that we were all sufficiently relaxed to enjoy our final night's sleep in the campsite's cool desert night air. 

Breakfast was a simple yet elegant meal of coffee and croissants!  We were aiming for the noonday  Ferry from Tangier to Algeciras. From there we would slowly wend our back through Spain and France, and eventually, return to England. To avoid tedium, and to allow us to visit as many new Spanish cities as possible, our drivers had chosen a more westerly return route through the Iberian Peninsula.

The long road over dusty plains and through the Rif Mountains to Tangier was, in places, barely more than a dirt track.  So we all felt like real adventurers, as we were tossed around like beanbags every time the Love Bus hit a pothole. I was glad that our tents, packs and cooking gear had been tied securely to its roof.  Would that we, ourselves, had been as secure within the vehicle! But seat belts were uncommon during this era, so some of us literally did bounce off the roof and windows.  Not naming names, but....Ouch!

Frequent random physical catapulting also discouraged sensible conversation - or any other kind of interaction during that trip. Most of us just slipped into an alternate reality - or, in my case, 'stun' mode!  We held on to whatever was bolted down, and bravely tried to ride out the bumps as our stalwart vehicle negotiated the terrain.

This was definitely NOT our finest hour!

Unbidden, thoughts, memories and feelings of the past few days flooded into my mind during that four-hour theme park journey.  Apart from the nastiness at the tannery, I had really enjoyed my time in Morocco and would miss it, and its friendly people, till my next visit - whenever that would be.   Luxuriating under sunny skies in warm 75F weather in mid-April was a real treat, and a far cry from the chill winds and grey rain-showers that we had left behind us, in London.

My soul had absorbed a rich tapestry of cultural and commercial experiences in Fes,  but I craved still more time to explore this city's ancient educational roots.  We had camped there for five nights, and I, personally, had visited as much of the Medina as I could manage on foot. 

On my next visit, I would once again visit the Medina, but I would also make time to explore more of Fes' architectural heritage, with my new camera!  I also promised myself that I'd ride a camel, for the experience, and for the fabulous photo opportunity.  Meanwhile, I would research how to cook the way Moroccans do, since their cuisine suited my palate.

Thanks to our youthful guide, Azim,  our baker's dozen travelling group had been well advised, protected, guided, entertained, educated and, especially on our last evening, treated like royalty. We had willingly paid Azim quite a handsome stipend for his excellent services, since he had truly made us feel that we were as special, to him, as his own personal family!

Azim's relatives had also been very warm and gracious towards us, and solicitous of our needs, both at the Moroccan Restaurant (Day 1) and at the home of the Chief of Police (Day 4). Even the local artisans and merchants of Fes had seemed genuinely delighted to cater to our needs and purchasing requirements.  Their combined welcome made me feel that most Moroccans have a happy soul.
I have often wondered what has happened to - and for - Azim since 1972.  Did his entrepreneurial genius lead him to brave new worlds of business?  Or did he follow his family's political and military template?  He'd be 51 years old in 2013. I wish him well and hope that he still has that twinkle in those mischievous brown eyes.  I will never forget his cheerful laugh and his wonderfully infectious smile! 
We stopped for a fruit snack at a warm but windy viewpoint near Ouezzane that gave us a panoramic view of the dessert landscape we had just crossed.

(excerpt taken from http://receptours.net/en/25/sub-page)
Ouezzane, a town in northern Morocco, north of Fez at the southern border of the Rif Mountains.  It was once a place for Andalusia's Jewish refugees. 
photo by kind courtesy of galenfrysinger.com 
The city is well known in Morocco and throughout the Islamic world by being a spiritual capital for it was home for many of the pillars of Sufism
Many Jews of Morocco consider Ouezzane to be a holy city and make pilgrimages there to venerate the tomb of Rabbi Imran Ben Diwan, an eighteenth century rabbi who lived in the city and whose burial site is associated with a number of miracles.
While we munched on the last of our tasty Moroccan tomatoes, Leanne quietly confessed that part of her reason for travelling to Morocco had been to satisfy her life-long attraction to brown-skinned men.  Then she blushingly revealed that she had actually done so, whilst in Fes.

The entire group fell silent, listening intently, as Leanne continued her story:  
Early on our 2nd full day in Fes, Leanne had met a dark and handsome (though not particularly tall!) Moroccan man, who had impulsively invited her to his home to meet the rest of his family that same evening.

Given my less than savoury experience with some of  'the locals', Leanne hadn't wanted the drivers to know her plan, or for the rest of us to worry about her.  So, she had told only her colleagues, with whom she was travelling, that she was 'going out' and should not be considered missing if she didn't return till the next morning.
Apparently, having a big, buxom, blue-eyed blonde visiting in one's house was a rarity in Fes. Indeed, it might still be rare, for all I know!  When Leanne had visited this fellow's family, it seemed to her that every male in the vicinity had turned up to look at her, touch her fair skin, ask her extremely personal questions, and just be seen with her. 
All the adulation had made her feel like a celebrity and she totally lost touch of time - and place - and, methinks, her sanity!  Yet, the next morning, escorted by three tired looking Moroccan men, Leanne was indeed returned safely to our campsite. Despite sporting a huge smile, she had waved away all of her girlfriends' questions with a shake of her hand, promising to explain everything to them after she had slept.
By evening of the following day, Leanne had slept, but had yet to reveal anything about her solo adventure. Only after we had put many miles of rough road between ourselves and the city of Fes, did she deign to explain her overnight excursion.

Listening to Leanne describe her private adventure in Morocco, made me curious as to what kind of experiences the others had encountered - and what they had learned about life, or themselves, whilst in Morocco.

I was particularly interested in knowing which aspects of this region's culture and customs my travelling companions found the most enlightening, intriguing or challenging - and why!

The drivers, knowing that our road would likely prohibit prolonged or animated conversation, suggested that we each think about our unique Morocco experience while travelling to Tangier. Those who wished could share their own individual stories later, over a proper restaurant lunch on the ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to Spain.

My mind then slid into neutral so that I could more clearly view the many events and experiences I had attracted in Morocco.  In only a few short days, I had enjoyed so many different experiences in this exotic land, that my rich and varied memories had become engrained in my psyche: 
Photo by kind courtesy of susanreep.com

After several days of unscheduled relaxation by the pool, or strolling and shopping in ancient souks, my mind and body had rebelled mightily against having to hurry up and get on the road again. 

The 177-mile direct road to Tangier skirted the dry foothills of the Rif Mountains. In 1972, its more rugged areas were poorly maintained causing our drivers to decrease speed without notice, adding to the already considerable discomfort of their passengers.  Despite leaving camp before 8am, we only just managed to connect with the noon ferry crossing to Algerciras. 
photo by kind courtesy of afar.com
Weary from our 4-hour journey, most of us shared a late lunch in the ferry dining room.

But everyone was a bit shell-shocked and I, too, was very introspective.

Only Leanne, it seemed, was ready - or willing - to elaborate on  her unique experience of Morocco - and Moroccan men.  That she was the only one still smiling after our rather vigorous journey from Fes, spoke volumes.

Our destination for that evening was, once again, the elegantly groomed beach at Estepona.  After four days of sleeping on desert baked soil that was as hard as concrete, my entire body relaxed at the mere thought of sleeping on the soft sand tonight.

Two hours later, refreshed by the strong winds and a ferry meal, we disembarked in Algeciras and headed eastwards towards the same private hotel at which we'd eaten supper on our outward journey to Morocco. 

We campers were not permitted to set up our tents on the beach till well after dusk.  But our hosts suggested that, whilst waiting, we change into our swim gear and enjoy the facilities, with the hotel guests, on that deliciously private beach.  
photo by kind courtesy of marbella-guide.com 
And that was how Anton managed to acquire several sunset as well as sunrise photos from the very same beach in Andalusia!   

The Mediterranean was still too cold for a swim, especially after the warm waters of the campsite pool in Fes. But frolicking on the beach with the rest of the group was great fun.

We all relished this time to play and stretch our muscles after that long bumpy trip from Fes, especially since nobody knew when - or if - England's beaches would ever be warm enough to permit such carefree activities.

Later that evening, we enjoyed a light supper, lovingly prepared for us by the staff.  Then, just after sunset, we pitched our tents for the night.   Most of us turned in very early, so weary were we after our adventures in Morocco.  I don't even remember my head hitting the pillow! 

Sleep, the great restorative, was exactly what we needed.  Tonight we fondly remembered the thrills of exploring a tiny bit of Morocco. But we had precious little time to grieve leaving its enticements.

The whole of Spain lay ahead; 
and Espana had assembled for us an extraordinary
extravaganza of exotic experiences  

Little did we know that our most exciting
Andalusian Adventure 
was to begin the very next day...
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Coming Soon!