Chapter 12 - Day 14 Estepona to Seville (162 miles)
We had only just secured our tents atop the Love Bus when the roar of the beach-sweeper approached. Dawn was now half an hour earlier than on our previous visit to this beach. Learning from our lessons of last time, we headed to the kitchen for a regenerative breakfast before resuming our journey.
Our drivers had been grateful for my ingenuity in bartering my watch for food, during out outward journey to Tangier. But we were now in Spain, where less bartering and more paying of pesetas was the norm. So we were all glad to start the day with warm coffee and breakfast under our belts.
Our drivers had been grateful for my ingenuity in bartering my watch for food, during out outward journey to Tangier. But we were now in Spain, where less bartering and more paying of pesetas was the norm. So we were all glad to start the day with warm coffee and breakfast under our belts.
Phoenician Ship photo by kind courtesy of lacornamusa.com
We had been scheduled to continue our tour of Andalusia in Malaga, the 2800 year old seat of power politics, originally established by the Phoenicians in Southern Spain.
But the majority of our group was eager to see a bullfight! And the best bullring in Spain was reputed to be in Seville, a mere 150 miles north west of Estepona.
Though our Love Bus at first headed eastwards along the Mediterranean coastline, towards Malaga, we did not stop there. Instead we skirted the city of Marbella, taking the road that led us northwards into the coastal mountains.
But the majority of our group was eager to see a bullfight! And the best bullring in Spain was reputed to be in Seville, a mere 150 miles north west of Estepona.
Though our Love Bus at first headed eastwards along the Mediterranean coastline, towards Malaga, we did not stop there. Instead we skirted the city of Marbella, taking the road that led us northwards into the coastal mountains.
photo by kind courtesy of myitchytravelfeet.com
About 60 miles from Marbella, we
discovered the picturesque town of Ronda, known for its rock
paintings, and also for its role during the Spanish Inquisition.
About 60 miles from Marbella, we
discovered the picturesque town of Ronda, known for its rock
paintings, and also for its role during the Spanish Inquisition.
photo by kind courtesy of rusticblue.com
We stopped midway for lunch at Zahara de la Sierra, originally a Moorish outpost, overlooking the valley. Situated between Ronda and Seville,
it was a perfect location and site for a fortress castle. And its remains can still be seen.
We stopped midway for lunch at Zahara de la Sierra, originally a Moorish outpost, overlooking the valley. Situated between Ronda and Seville,
it was a perfect location and site for a fortress castle. And its remains can still be seen.
By the time we reached Utrera and had seen the farms where the fighting bull are bred, interest in seeing an actual bullfight was growing.
photo by kind courtesy of 3gbk.net
photo by kind courtesy of 3gbk.net
The bull-fighting aspect of Spanish culture saddened me, because I didn't - and don't - think of bull sacrifice as entertainment. But,
I was part of this tour and, since majority rules, our drivers said they
would look for the famous bullring, when we reached Seville. And it was housed in a magnificent building.
photo by kind courtesy of viajarasevilla.com 
This Sevillian edifice is the oldest bullring in the world, and reputed to be the finest in Spain.
When we got to Seville, however, our drivers discovered that the bullring was CLOSED, apparently due to the Spring Celebrations.
photo by kind courtesy of luminous-landscape.com
By serendipity, it seems that we had arrived right in the middle of Seville's Annual April Feria (fair).
Y E S !
We lost no time in finding our campsite and setting up our tents. Then, like the Pied Piper, I joyfully led everyone, including my faithful bodyguard,
Anton, into the streets with the rest of Seville.
The idea was to spend a few carefree hours, enjoying the fair, and then return to the campsite to sleep. With lots of food and drink on sale everywhere, we unanimously chose not schedule a formal supper together that night.
The idea was to spend a few carefree hours, enjoying the fair, and then return to the campsite to sleep. With lots of food and drink on sale everywhere, we unanimously chose not schedule a formal supper together that night.
Enjoying the Feria together had been my sincere plan. I had, however, managed to zig while the rest of the group zagged. And, as a result, I totally lost sight of all of them within a few minutes.
Having no way to locate them in that crowd, (cell phones did not yet exist) I did briefly consider returning to the campsite to wait. That, of course, would have been the responsible thing to do.
Having no way to locate them in that crowd, (cell phones did not yet exist) I did briefly consider returning to the campsite to wait. That, of course, would have been the responsible thing to do.
But...but...but...
there was this
REALLY GROOVY
REALLY GROOVY
street party happening!
So, being a highly impulsive, and somewhat reckless, young woman, I indulged myself by partying with Sevillian locals ALL that evening, and into the wee small hours of morning. Despite the language barrier, and a few pangs of guilt concerning the whereabouts of the rest of my group, I really enjoyed myself!
photo by kind courtesy of andalucia.com
There
was so much to learn, and so many foods to sample that just walking up
one side of the fun-filled street and then back down the other side,
took several hours.
All the streets were lined with temporary tents called casetas, each featuring a different aspect of this country's musical, dance and artistic heritage.
All the streets were lined with temporary tents called casetas, each featuring a different aspect of this country's musical, dance and artistic heritage.
At one caseta, I learned the art of Spanish clapping, and at the next the rudiments of Sevillana a popular flamenco-style dance that originated in Seville. It felt a bit odd to be dancing in such a sensuous and feminine manner whilst wearing jeans and a t-shirt, but nobody seemed to mind at all!
Everyone else looked resplendent in their traditional Spanish dress, most with their seemingly bottomless glass of manzanilla sherry or golden beer. Even I had acquired a glassful of the thirst-quenching beverage!
Those walking or dancing seemed to use alcohol as fuel. But, if they were as tipsy as I was becoming, I did wonder how the ones riding horses managed to stay upright and look so magnificent in their traditional costumes.
Everyone else looked resplendent in their traditional Spanish dress, most with their seemingly bottomless glass of manzanilla sherry or golden beer. Even I had acquired a glassful of the thirst-quenching beverage!
Those walking or dancing seemed to use alcohol as fuel. But, if they were as tipsy as I was becoming, I did wonder how the ones riding horses managed to stay upright and look so magnificent in their traditional costumes.
photo by kind courtesy of lostgirlsworld.com
All
the streets were crowded, and
everyone was having a really good time. Wonderful Andalusian music,
with its gypsy passion, filled the blossom scented air. Any dissension
was thus drowned out, though most people seemed genuinely relaxed and happy just to be there.
I felt very much at home in Seville, and was so delighted to be out and about without a chaperone that I became totally unaware of time passing.
At a very deep level, I could feel the city's passionate heart beating. It might have been my own heart beat, of course. Like everyone else, I did consume rather a lot of wine!
I felt very much at home in Seville, and was so delighted to be out and about without a chaperone that I became totally unaware of time passing.
After a long and difficult Winter, it felt like I was being embraced by a warm and glorious Spring
At a very deep level, I could feel the city's passionate heart beating. It might have been my own heart beat, of course. Like everyone else, I did consume rather a lot of wine!
As
the night wound down and the crowd thinned, I began looking for the
road that led to our campsite. A female voice from a nearby caseta then called
out, in English, asking if I'd enjoyed my time at the Feria.
The owner of the voice was dressed from head to toe in traditional costume. When I walked towards her, she smiled and handed me a cup of hot chocolate, then invited me to share tapas with her and her family inside their caseta.
The owner of the voice was dressed from head to toe in traditional costume. When I walked towards her, she smiled and handed me a cup of hot chocolate, then invited me to share tapas with her and her family inside their caseta.
Three hours later I rolled back to the campsite, where I found my
camp-mates still awake. They had been very worried about me and some
had actually formed a search party to look for me. Ooops!
During that afternoon and evening, the rest of the group had discovered that the bullring had indeed been
open during the evenings of the Feria. But since ticket prices for this prime time event were
way beyond our budget, our drivers had simply told us it was closed.
Those saddest about not attending a Seville Feria bull-fight, were also the ones who grumbled the loudest about my 'disappearance', being only too willing to dump ALL their disappointment at my feet. Even Anton was so upset, he hardly spoke to me at all.
I had acted selfishly by not returning to the campsite the moment I had lost sight of my group. For, while I was enjoying a grand time at the Feria, the rest of my travelling group had wasted one entire precious day of THEIR holiday in fruitlessly looking for me.
Those saddest about not attending a Seville Feria bull-fight, were also the ones who grumbled the loudest about my 'disappearance', being only too willing to dump ALL their disappointment at my feet. Even Anton was so upset, he hardly spoke to me at all.
Yet they had every right to be annoyed with me!
I had acted selfishly by not returning to the campsite the moment I had lost sight of my group. For, while I was enjoying a grand time at the Feria, the rest of my travelling group had wasted one entire precious day of THEIR holiday in fruitlessly looking for me.
photo by kind courtesy of weddingbee.com
Oh Dear!!
I really blew it this time!
I felt wretched
that I had been so inconsiderate of my travel-mates. And I specifically regretted causing such worry, especially after they had been so
kind to me after the tannery event in Morocco.
So, I immediately and profusely apologized for my thoughtless, asking those still awake for their forgiveness, which they grudgingly gave me. Then I promised to make it up to them for disappearing and spoiling their day.
After the many restrictions involved in touring Morocco, an uninterrupted day of fun was exactly what I had already enjoyed - and it was exactly what everyone else also needed to experience.
And, after spending time with my new friends, I could hardly wait for them to discover what FUN really felt, looked, sounded and tasted like in Seville!
A day at the Seville Feria
and a night to remember!
in
So, I immediately and profusely apologized for my thoughtless, asking those still awake for their forgiveness, which they grudgingly gave me. Then I promised to make it up to them for disappearing and spoiling their day.
After the many restrictions involved in touring Morocco, an uninterrupted day of fun was exactly what I had already enjoyed - and it was exactly what everyone else also needed to experience.
And, after spending time with my new friends, I could hardly wait for them to discover what FUN really felt, looked, sounded and tasted like in Seville!
Coming Soon!
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and a night to remember!
in
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