Translate

Thursday, September 26, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: July 19 - 21 Athens, Corinth, Sparta

Monday July 19
Athens
We disembarked from our Greek Island cruise in Piraeus at 8.30am.  Dropping our backpacks off with Kosta at the Olympus Hotel, Donna and I then caught a bus to Acropolis Hill where we discovered to our dismay, that The Parthenon itself was closed, because too many tourists had destabilized its floor. 

Parthenon and Acropolis from Philopappos Hill 
by kind courtesy of http://imgc.allpostersimages.com/images/P-473-488-90/27/2724/YHYND00Z/posters/anders-blomqvist-parthenon-and-acropolis-from-filopappou-hill-athens-greece.jpg
Never daunted, another intrepid tourist, a German History Professor, and I were determined to witness this wonder of the ancient world with our own eyes, and feet. 

The Parthenon looked huge and imposing then, especially since its magnificence was not then sullied by the supportive scaffolding that has since been erected. 

The Parthenon today
by kind courtesy of http://www.thomascooktours.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/4203491.jpg
In the short half-hour that the fates allowed us, the Professor very efficiently related to me  a canned version of Acropolis and Parthenon history. 

He was a good teacher who spoke excellent English, so we strolled together around as much of the Parthenon as we could manage before irate guards threw us off the entire site.

Below is a painting of the Acropolis Hill as it once looked as depicted by artist Leo von Klenze in 1846.
by kind courtesy of http://www.thomascooktours.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/4203491.jpg

The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a high rocky outcrop above the city of Athens that contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon.

I thanked the Professor for a most informative tour of Acropolis Hill and bid him adieu. Then Donna and I left the Parthenon and went to explore the Philopappos Monument atop Mouseion Hill (the hill of the Muses) also known as
Philopappos Monument
The highest, 147 m., and farthest east of the group of hills on the south-west side of the city, the Mouseion, was so called by the Ancient Greeks after the legendary priest, seer and minstrel Museaus, a contemporary of Orpheus and Eumolpus, whose tomb, according to Pausanias, could be seen there. An earlier tradition associates this hill with the Muses;  or the "Hill of the Muses". 
Situated opposite the Acropolis, it is commonly known nowadays as the Hill of Philopappus from the monument erected on its summit by the Athenians early in the second century AD in honor of Gaius Julius Antiochus Philopappus, a philhellene Syrian prince, citizen of Athens, Roman consul and praetor. This monument, which was in fact a mausoleum, was about 12 m. in height by 10 m. in breadth, and was built of Pentelic marble on a poros platform. It was destroyed in the seventeenth century and only two-thirds of the north-east facade remain today. 
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/932967 
Philopappos Hill of the Muses
Philopappos Hill is the highest of the three hills just west of the Acropolis, and is named after a monument erected at the top of the hill in honor of the Roman senator Philopappos.   
In antiquity the hill was known as the Mouseion (Hill of the Muses).  The Greek believed that the hill was inhabited by the nine muses and that Musaeus, a poet and disciple of Orpheus, was buried here.  
The hill has a height of 147 meters (482 ft) and offers spectacular views of the Acropolis. Towards the south you can see as far as the sea.  
The other two hills are known as the Hill of the Nymphs - formerly the site of a shrine dedicated to the nymphs - and the Hill of the Pnyx, where people assembled in the sixth century BC. The three hills now form one large park with a network of paths that lead along ancient monuments.  
Philopappos Monument 
Philopappos Monument
The Roman consul and senator Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos, a powerful aristocrat and friend of the Roman emperor Trajan, admired Greek culture and long lived in Athens. He was seen in Athens as a benefactor, and often sponsored theater plays.
After he died, the Athenians built a marble tomb and monument for the senator. The monument, completed in 119 AD, is twelve meters high and was built at the highest point of the Philopappos Hill. 
Now a ruin, the niches with statues of Philopappus and his grandfather Antiochus IV are still visible. The frieze below the niches depict Philopappos's entrance in 109 AD in the city of Athens as Roman consul.

Press here for a video of the Monument plus panoramic view of  modern Athens and the Aegean Sea.

Amphitheatre of Herodes Atticus
At Philoppapos Hill, I met Helvecio from Brazil,who walked with Donna and me to view the amphitheatre of Herodes Atticus from above. 
The acoustics here remain impressive, even after all these millenia. From the upper stands, I could hear Helvecio whispering on that circular stage.
It was built in 161 AD by the Athenian magnate Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife, Aspasia Annia Regilla. It was originally a steep-sloped amphitheater with a three-story stone front wall and a wooden roof made of expensive, cedar of Lebanon timber. It was used as a venue for music concerts with a capacity of 5,000. It lasted intact until it was destroyed and turned into a ruin by the Heruli in 267 AD 
Modern concerts are still held here. The audience stands and the orchestra(stage) were restored using pentelic marble in the 1950s. Since then it has been the main venue of the Athens Festival, which runs from May through October each year, featuring a variety of acclaimed Greek as well as International performances

The Cat Came Back
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.edholden.com/images/photos/20071017-0184%20-%20Athens%20-%20Kittens%20in%20Plaka.jpg
Bidding adieu to Helvecio, we then enjoyed a leisurely lunch in a small cafe. But as we strolled back to the hotel, I heard a kitten meowing.

To my ears it sounded really forlorn and unhappy. So of course, I had to stay and rescue the kitten from the storm drain, much to the amusement of nearby workmen.

With the tiny creature safely in my arms, Donna and I then walked it to a nearby park, following directions delivered by the helpful workmen with the aid of much mime and hand waving. Once there, we released the starving creature to its feline family.

There was a brief show of happiness at the reunion. Then the entire feline family ran at full speed straight towards the park's storm drain into which they promptly vanished.

Donna and I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. She had just spent 90 minutes watching me rescuing a wild kitten from what turned out to be its family home! 

On the upside, a nubile Canadian girl kneeling on the sidewalk, with her arms reaching into a manhole for over an hour, presented a view that probably made time pass much more quickly for those young Greek workmen! 

So what if the cat came back
the very next hour?!
Press here for The Cat Came Back video

Still laughing, Donna and I returned to our lunchtime restaurant washroom, where I was able to wash both myself and my filthy dress before exiting. Not for the first time on this Grand Tour did I walk about a European town in a soaking wet cotton frock.


The Peleponese
Collected stuff from hotel and caught bus to Corinth by 7.30 pm.  Donna had earlier met and received an invitation from a Corinthian, Paul, to visit the ancient ruins with him. He had promised to meet our bus at the Corinth Depot at 7.30 pm.  But he failed to materialize. 

Instead, Good Samaritan John helped us to find accommodation in Corinth and then escorted us both for a drink. We desperately needed food and were about to bid John adieu and go in search of a restaurant when we unexpectedly bumped into Paul, who had been looking for us. 

Paul then took us in his car on wild goose chase to find one particular restaurant, returning us to our pension at 1.30 am.  By this time I was beyond livid with Paul!  It had been a very long day, and both Donna and I were SO tired by the time we hit the sack.

Tuesday July 20 
Corinth
by kind courtesy of 
http://tribesports.com/challenges/swim-the-corinth-channel


I awoke rested and relaxed at 8.10 am.  Donna had to sort out a MasterCharge problem. So took the opportunity to go swimming alone in the warm, clear, blue waters of the Corinth Channel.  

It was an awesome experience, swimming alone in that narrow strip of deep clear water, with the channel sides looming above me. And I also enjoyed the sheer exercise of traversing its 70 ft width several times before returning to the hotel to shower and dress, wash some clothes and write a letter to my Mom.

 At 3.30 pm, after we'd eaten lunch, Donna's friend Paul collected and drove us to the ruins of Ancient Corinth where we three wandered about the huge yet deserted place for about 2 hours.  There were no guides, or booksellers on site. We were the only live humans in evidence.

by kind courtesy of 
by kind courtesy of
by kind courtesy of
http://www.planetware.com/i/map/GR/corinth-center-of-an-ancient-city-map.jpg
After an exhausting afternoon soaking in the ancient vibes in the open air in 104 F heat, Donna and I raced back to our room, to collect our backpacks just in time to catch the bus to Nafplion. Thankfully the heat abated significantly after sunset.

Nafplion
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.greece-map.net/maps/nafplion-map.gif
We arrived at Nafplion at 8 pm but could not find any suitable accommodations at that hour. 
The Youth Hostel was already full for the night, but had permission to rent out space on the roof for 20 drachma per person. Both of us were so tired that we both slept soundly, despite the discomfort. Breakfast was a further 20 drachma, and after a night spent on concrete we needed it. 

Wednesday July 21
Bus to Sparta
From Nafplion, we took the bus to Argos, and from there caught our connection to Sparta.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.groundedtraveler.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/Traveling-600x450.jpg
The journey to Sparta was bizarre, since the vehicle carried local passengers as well as tourists. All was calm until the road rose to the plateau in a series of bends rendering the trip more precarious.

To avert panic, our bus driver put on a tape of lively, and very loud, Greek music. As if on cue, several people left their seats to dance in the narrow aisle.

I watched, spellbound, as they nimbly side-stepped, or otherwise avoided, a number of small children, squawking chickens and one oddly calm goat all of whom travelled in the aisle that day. 

Every time the bus negotiated a sharp bend in the road, the heavy load fastened to its roof shifted sides, and the bus travelled precariously on two wheels till driving into the opposite bend cancelled the problem.  Yet inside the bus, those intrepid dancers never missed a step! 

The Greeks brought us everything else, 
why not the Party Bus?!

by kind courtesy of 
When I was not watching the scenery outside or enjoying the antics of the locals inside, I passed time by attempting to pronounce impossible phrases in Greek. 

When my brain grew weary of company I attempted to solve the Greek puzzle ring I had purchased on a whim while in Athens. It was simply too noisy and the road too bumpy for me to even attempt to read.
by kind courtesy of 
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6700326445_1820ff82a5_o.jpg
We stopped en route for refreshments that were provided by ex-pat Greeks who had returned home and set up businesses along the Greek bus routes. So we were well hydrated and fed by the time we reached Sparta.

Happy to be able to stretch our legs, Donna and I shopped for souvenirs before looking for lodging for the night. Then, once the sun had set, we joined the rest of the town in the square in the international pastime of people watching. Body language surpassed all other dialects that evening!

 For tips on local etiquette in Greece press here 

The next day we would travel to Diros to visit the famed Diros Caves, then return to Sparta before making our way to Patras and the ferry back to Corfu and Italy.  But that night, we both slept like babies after a long day of travelling through the Greek countryside.

Next Time
July 22 - 24
GREECE

Peleponnese

 Diros Caves 

 Sparta 

 Patras
Corfu

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July  22-24 The Peleponnese and Corfu
Posted by at No comments:
Labels: , , , , , , , , , ,

Friday, September 20, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: July 18 Crete, Santorini

Sunday July 18
As is often the way after an epic storm at sea, the dawn broke clear and hot, with not a trace of the electromagnetic violence through which our ship had just passed. We arrived at Crete after eating a nourishing breakfast on board. It was to be a long day sightseeing in relentless heat, so we really needed a good head start.

Heraklion 
by kind courtesy of
http://www.achtypistours.gr/sites/default/files/imagecache/galleryformatter_slide/11/04/4150200420_9efcfe4dae_zvenetian_harbour.jpg
At 8 am, we disembarked ship at the historic Heraklion harbour, which was first established during the 13th Century by wealthy Venetian merchant families seeking a sunny, warm winter escape.

Knossos
From the harbour, we were bused to the nearby ancient palace city of Knossos.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.travel-greece.org/crete/heraklio/knossos/map.png 
My first impression of Knossis was its immense size which totals 10 sq. km, [3.9 square miles]. That's three times larger than New York's Central Park [1.3 square miles].
Above is an artist's rendition of the Palace as it was originally designed and built on top of a hill to maximize both the view and its security.

My second impression of Knossos was of the overwhelming heat there. Though not yet 9 am, the thermometer registered at 37 degrees Celsius. That's blood heat! And since the temperature climbed steadily all day, I was very glad that I'd worn my coolest cotton frock and sturdy sneakers.

This palace was an ancient holy site, which supplied for all the needs of those using it, including indoor plumbing and reliable access to fresh water. Its infrastructure has remained in tact for 5000 years, mainly because it was not designed for public use.
by kind courtesy of
With my ceaseless drive to touch, smell, psychically sense and photograph everything I saw in Knossos, I soon lost sight of our cruise ship's touring party. So I joined a touring German group instead.

Not that I spoke German, in this lifetime, but with the aid of the guide's hand gestures, I was able to glean quite a lot of information. But the German group moved on while I was busily investigating Knossos' indoor plumbing system, so amazed was I to discover that they really did have efficient plumbing 3000 years BC!

The next group to which I attached myself spoke only Japanese, but after a few minutes of trying to decipher meaning, I realized that even their hand gestures did nothing to clarify the information being imparted. So I left that group and searched for a secluded, shaded place in which to relax and meditate.

The place I found located was on a slight promontory so it must have, at one time, commanded an imposing view of the sea. In 1976, it was almost overgrown by olive trees, whose leafy boughs provided plenty of shade and privacy, both of which I desperately needed.

by kind courtesy of 
Meditating was as easy as breathing in that peaceful place, and I was quickly transported back in time to witness Knossos as it used to be.

In that altered state, I easily experienced synesthesia, the ability hear colours and see sounds. Thus my experience of the art and music still felt as fresh and relevant to me then, as it had once been 5000 years ago.

History of Knossos
Knossos was inhabited for several thousand years, beginning with a neolithic settlement sometime in the seventh millennium BC, and was abandoned after its destruction in 1375 BC which marked the end of Minoan civilization.
The first palace, on the low hill beside the Krairatos river was built around 1900 BC on the ruins of previous settlements. It was destroyed for the first time along with the other Protopalatial palaces around Crete at 1700 BC, probably by a large earthquake or foreign invaders. It was immediately rebuilt to an even more elaborate complex and until its abandonment was damaged several times during earthquakes, invasions, and in 1450 BC by the colossal volcanic eruption of Thera, and the invasion of Mycenaeans who used it as their capital as they ruled the island of Crete until 1375 BC.
above excerpt taken from http://www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/knossos.html 
The palace of Knossos was undoubtedly the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilization and culture. It appears as a maze of workrooms, living spaces and storerooms close to a central square. And approximate graphic view of some aspects of Cretan life in the Bronze Age is provided by restorations of the palace's indoor and outdoor murals, as it is also by the decorative motifs of the pottery and the insignia on the seals and sealings. 
The palace was abandoned at some unknown time at the end of the Late Bronze Age, ca. 1380–1100 BC.[7] The occasion is not known for certain, but one of the many disasters that befell the palace is generally put forward. The abandoning population were probably Mycenaean Greeks, who had earlier occupied the city-state, and were using Linear B as its administrative script, as opposed to Linear A, the previous administrative script. The hill was never again a settlement or civic site, although squatters may have used it for a time.
Except for periods of abandonment, other cities were founded in the immediate vicinity, such as the Roman colony, and a Hellenistic Greek precedent. The population shifted to the new town of Chandax (modern Heraklion) during the 9th century AD. By the 13th century, it was called Makruteikhos 'Long Wall'; the bishops of Gortyn continued to call themselves Bishops of Knossos until the 19th century.[8] Today, the name is used only for the archaeological site now situated in the expanding suburbs of Heraklion.
above excerpt taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knossos
by kind courtesy of 
http://powerplaces.com/images/photo/crete_dolphins.jpg
There is more about the Knossos Palace at these links:
Our cruise passengers were fortunate enough to spend a good few hours in ancient palace of Knossos. Even though several groups toured at the same time, the place was so huge, one could easily find a place to be alone. So my next 'perfect' quiet meditation spot was more centrally located. Taking off my sneakers, I sat cross-legged between a giant sculpture of bull horns that represented might and power of the Minoan culture.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.stevewatson.info/travel/Greece/images/KnossosHorns_edited.jpg


Modern day photos show that this sculpture has now been roped off to prevent further public access. But in 1976, I felt most privileged to take a precious 'time-out' to meditate literally upon this ancient artifact. From there, with eyes open, I could also view much of the central area of Knossos.

Too soon, it was time to leave Knossos and head back to Heraklion. But our time in Crete was not yet at an end. The buses next deposited us at Heraklion Archeological Museum, which houses the treasures of Knossos.

by kind courtesy of 
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3131/2924756949_39f3bf8b7f.jpg
It is one of the greatest museums in Greece[1] and the best in the world for Minoan art, as it contains the most notable and complete collection of artifacts of the Minoan civilization of Crete 
It houses representative artifacts from all the periods of Cretan prehistory and history, covering a chronological span of over 5,500 years from the Neolithic period to Roman times. 
The singularly important Minoan collection contains unique examples of Minoan art, many of them true masterpieces. The Heraklion Museum is rightly considered as the museum of Minoan culture par excellence worldwide.

Santorini
We were all exhausted when, after the museum, we finally returned for a late lunch aboard ship. Donna took a nap for the duration of the journey across the Cretan trough to Santorini. But I took advantage of our last afternoon aboard ship to swim and sunbathe on the pool deck.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.santorini.com/santorini/santorini1.jpg
Our ship could not anchor at Santorini because the waters were just too deep!
Santorini is essentially what remains after an enormous volcanic explosion that destroyed the earliest settlements on a formerly single island, and created the current geological caldera. A giant central, rectangular lagoon, which measures about 12 by 7 km (7.5 by 4.3 mi), is surrounded by 300 m (980 ft) high, steep cliffs on three sides. The main island slopes downward to the Aegean Sea. On the fourth side, the lagoon is separated from the sea by another much smaller island called Therasia; the lagoon is connected to the sea in two places, in the northwest and southwest. The depth of the caldera, at 400m, makes it possible for all but the largest ships to anchor anywhere in the protected bay; there is also a newly built marina at Vlychada, on the southwestern coast. The island's principal port is Athinias. The capital, Fira, clings to the top of the cliff looking down on the lagoon. The volcanic rocks present from the prior eruptions feature olivine and have a small presence of hornblende.[3]
Donkey Ride
Passengers leaving to explore the island were ferried to shore in small groups by a few motor launches. Once on terra firma, we were advised to climb the steep cliff via donkey. The alternative would have been using Shank's Pony.  

I loved the idea of taking a donkey ride up to the top, taking photos of the view along the way. Yet I'd inexplicably worn a light summer frock instead of more sensible shorts or jeans. So modesty demanded that I walk! 

But, after one glance at the sorry state of those stout, stone steps that the donkeys used - and regularly soiled - this young lady's modesty was quickly abandoned in the name of expediency. 
by kind courtesy of 
http://e9b99f2b5ed9294eceb2-67426f45d3c99fadb5a62382d46a425c.r96.cf3.rackcdn.com/1608-Danica-shows-off-bronzed-thighs.jpg

With consummate glee, I boarded that Cadillac of ancient conveyances, the donkey, and spent the journey trying to ignore the lecherous comments the view of my bronzed thighs elicited from delighted males.

Even though I didn't understand Greek, their intent was all too clear! So for the 12 minutes it took for our donkeys to ascend that cliff, I knew exactly what Donna had endured on our first morning in Athens. And I also knew that I'd have to go through it all over again on the way down.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.maverick.co.id/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/Santo-5.jpg
The winding view up to the town of Fira was spectacular, gradually revealing the surrounding islands as well as our waiting cruise ship and the busy shuttle launches. 

What a wonderful treat this gentle introduction Santorini was, and must have been, even in Minoan times. Today, less able travellers have the option of ascending via cable car to the top

 Pistachio Ice Cream
Duly deposited near the town of Fira, I looked for something to drink.

The streets were filled with tourists, so I looked to the advertisements for visual signs of impending relief. That's how I chose a triple decker ice cream cone to slake my thirst, instead of water!

I had never even seen pistachio ice cream before and so was first attracted by its minty green colour. The taste was out of this world, and the sheer quantity of the unexpected treat certainly cooled my body!  But I still needed water afterwards.

Eager to escape the crowds, I walked through the main street to the edge of town where I spied this fabulously romantic spot for a dinner for two, similar to the one shown, whilst searching for a drink of water!
Alas, the time passed too quickly and before I could venture further, it was time to return to the ship. Our last evening aboard awaited, a splendid celebration of life in food and spirits, yet it was bitter-sweet farewell to passengers we had befriended as well as to the islands of Greece.

Craving some alone time after a wondrously happy but noisy, plate-crashing supper, I walked to the stern of the boat to watch the setting of the hot Aegean sun. It felt and looked like all that a sunset should be, except that I seemed to be the only passenger on that huge vessel to witness it.

The wonder of a sunset
is in no way affected by
a lack of onlookers 

Behind us the sun was also setting on Santorini, and I could only dream of being there. I knew in my heart that one day I would again visit this most romantic of islands, but next time in the company of someone I loved.
by kind courtesy of
What are you waiting for? 
Press here to plan YOUR dream 
Greek Islands Cruise

 Next Time
July 19 - 23
GREECE



Athens
Acropolis Hill - Parthenon - Fillopopous Monument - Sewer Cat

Peleponnese
Corinth - Nafplion -Sparta
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July  19-21 Athens and The Peleponnese
Posted by at No comments:
Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Saturday, September 14, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: July 17 Rhodes


Saturday July 17
The gentle rolling of our cruise ship had lulled me to dreamland. So I was startled to awaken and discover it was already 9.30 am. Since we were nearing Rhodes harbour, I hurriedly breakfasted on fresh rolls and hot coffee, then disembarked with half the passengers, to spend the whole day exploring this historic island!

Rhodes is an island located northeast of Crete and southeast of Athens. And though Greek, it is closer to the Anatolian coast of Turkey. It is the largest of the Dodecanese islands, both in land area and population.
by kind courtesy of http://www.worldatlas.com/webimage/countrys/europe/grdodecanese.htm
Historically, Rhodes was famous worldwide for its Colossus, which protected the island and its harbour till it was destroyed by an earthquake in 226 BC.

The Colossus astride the ancient harbour of Rhodes once stood over 30 meters (98.4 ft) high, and must have been an imposing sight for merchant boats entering or leaving the island's ancient harbour. 

Built to honour the Greek Titan, Helios,  It was one of the tallest statues of the ancient world and is, today, considered one of the Seven wonders of the Ancient World
Today, the medieval Old Town of the City of Rhodes has been declared a World Heritage Site. And I was totally thrilled to be spending the day there.

Grand Master's Palace
by kind courtesy of http://travelsort.com/blog/history-beautiful-views-and-nightlife-in-rhodes-greece
Our first group excursion was to the Grand Master's Palace where an English speaking tour guide enthusiastically educated us around the edifice.
The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes is a medieval castle in the city of Rhodes. The site was previously a citadel of the Knights Hospitaller that functioned as a palace, headquarters and fortress. 
by kind courtesy of http://www.visitgreece.gr/deployedFiles/StaticFiles/Photos/Castello_The%20Grand%20Masters'%20Palace_%20Rhodes%20Old%20Town_510.jpg]
Some parts of the palace were damaged by an ammunition explosion in 1856. When the Kingdom of Italy occupied Rhodes in 1912, the Italians made the palace a holiday residence for the King of Italy, Victor Emmanuel III, and later for Fascist dictator Benito Mussolini, whose name can still be seen on a large plaque near the entrance. 

 On 10 February 1947, the Treaty of Peace with Italy, one of the Paris Peace Treaties, determined that the recently-established Italian Republic would transfer the Dodecanese Islands to Greece. In 1948, Rhodes and the rest of the Dodecanese were transferred as previously agreed. The palace was then converted to a museum and is today visited by millions of tourist annually.
 Above excerpt taken from 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palace_of_the_Grand_Master_of_the_Knights_of_Rhodes

My favourite surprise discovery at the Grand Master's Palace was a marble mosaic floor that featured a detailed astrological map. It's solid, ancient presence, still preserved in this palace, reassured me that ancient princes had respected and revered Astrology. 

by kind courtesy of http://cdn1.vtourist.com/4/4709904-Nostalgic_streets_of_Old_Rhodes_Town_Rodos_City.jpg
Leaving the Grand Master's Palace, Donna and I strolled the picturesque back streets of Rhodes, getting lost among the quaint old roads of the Medieval town. The shadows cast by the buildings provided excellent shade, most efficiently shielding us from the searing noonday sun.

Eventually we re-joined the crowds in the main street that stretched towards the harbour, beneath the outer walls of the Grand Master's palace. Here the atmosphere was definitely more lively with a street fair  in full swing with independent merchants selling their wares.

Though this video conveys the feeling of walking through the streets of Rhodes

Closer to the harbour many street vendors were selling freshly cooked food, which smelled heavenly to me. It had been many hours since my bread roll and coffee before leaving the ship. So I was ready to risk freshly cooked souvlaki wrapped in flat bread. But since Donna was not willing to trust her stomach to rough local cuisine, we parted ways by the water, agreeing to meet on board our ship later.

I spent the rest of that afternoon in blissful solitude, eating my simple yet delicious lunch sitting on a wall overlooking Elli beach. Today, swank resort hotels provide beach loungers and drinks service to attract younger, more active tourists. But back then, those hotels had yet to be built.

In 1976, very few pale-skinned tourists braved the town's nearest beach that midday. But since I tan to bronze quickly, I rarely used lotions. After lunch, I moved to the water's edge and stripped to my bikini, leaving shoes and outer clothing in a pile close to the water's edge. The Aegean and Mediterranean seas have no tides so there was no risk that my clothes would not be swept into it.

The cobalt blue water felt warm and silky on my skin, and was so clean that I initially spent several minutes time floating face down, mesmerized by schools of small fishes darting about in the shallow water.

But when I turned my face to the sky, the shock of the water on my back informed me that the hot noontime Greek sun was, indeed, a force to be reckoned with. While I had been happily chasing fishes, my neck, shoulders and upper arms had been sizzling like steak on a barbecue. 

In an effort to literally save my skin, I spent the rest of that afternoon immersed in the water, diving under it, treading water and swimming - anything but passively floating on the surface. Unused to the intensity of Greek sunshine, I realized I was very, very lucky to have escaped getting sunstroke that day!

For an overview of modern day Elli beach and its amenities press this link.

Too soon, it was time to head back to the harbour and rejoin my cruise. But my afternoon of solitary play in that warm and welcoming salt water had revitalized me, giving me the strength I needed to withstand the remainder of (what would be) our cruise's rigorous sightseeing schedule.

Storm at sea
Everyone was on board before the supper rotation began. And most ate very heartily after a day of sightseeing and shopping in old town Rhodes. Oddly, I had very little appetite for a big meal that night, despite the always tempting menu. Instead I chose a meal of cold cuts, a freshly made salad and some fresh fruit, washed down with a couple of glasses of wine.
by kind courtesy of http://origin-ars.els-cdn.com/content/image/1-s2.0-S0025322707000400-gr2.jpg
During the night, as our ship plied the waters between the southernmost Greek Isles, the weather gods stirred up a classic Aegean storm, very like the ones faced by ancient Greek heroes in Homer's Odyssey.

We were passing through the Cretan Trough, an undersea depression between Rhodes and Crete known for its undersea volcanic activity and earthquakes. This area frequently tested the nerve and talent of those who plied its waters. And, that night, it blew us a storm of epic proportions!

Fortunately, I already encountered gale force winds whilst travelling to the mainland of Scotland from the Outer Hebrides in the summer of 1971. But then, the townsfolk of Stornaway, who had seen the storm forecast, took care to warn us to limit our food intake before boarding that ferry.  

On this Grecian journey, however, we passengers had received no such warning, whatsoever, So, following a day of exploration, many had eaten and drunk to excess at supper, oblivious of the violent storm that was fast approaching.

As the storm intensified, and the ship began pitching into the mighty waves, many people began to look rather green around the gills, and thus chose to return to their cabins. Donna, unfortunately, was one of them.

Montreal Olympics begin
by kind courtesy of http://www.pinsandthings.com/546-660-large/ioc-olympic-logo-montreal-1976-pin-badge.jpg
I was glad to have eaten so sparingly during the day, and again at supper that my own stomach was not at all affected by the waves. Apart from two glasses of wine at supper, I'd drunk only water for that entire day. Thus when tumultuous waves raised our ship high into the air, it felt like - to me - as if we were riding on an endless slow motion roller coaster.

The ship pitched so violently, that its much anticipated televised reception of the 1976 Olympics was frequently interrupted by static. 
The opening ceremonies of the Olympics were actually taking place in Montreal at that very moment. But since Greece is 7 time zones ahead of Montreal, we were watching them on board during a dark and very stormy night. 

I have a wonderful, if rather bizarre, memory of our national anthem 'Oh Canada' being sung by several strong-stomached Canadians on board, who had gathered by the lounge television to wait out the storm. In fact, the only consistent rendition of our national anthem that night was ours since our ship's television reception disappeared intermittently whenever our vessel pitched into a wave.  

At such auspicious moments, it was a matter of pride for us, Canadians, to fill in the gaps of our anthem. And we did so enthusiastically - in both our national languages, no less!

Sleep, when it came, was fitful, even after a day of activities in Rhodes. In that continuing storm, I was mightily grateful that our berths were designed with sturdy side barriers that kept us from being tossed to the floor during the night. 

The next morning we would be in Crete, an island that lies only 50 miles from the coastline of Africa.

Next Time
July 18 - 20
GREEK ISLANDS CRUISE

 Crete 
Palace of Knossos
Heraklion Museum

Santorini 
Donkey Rides
Churches
Triple decker Ice Cream cones

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July 18 Crete and Santorini
Posted by at No comments:
Labels: , , , , , , , , , , ,
Subscribe to: Posts (Atom)