Sunday July 18
As is often the way after an epic storm at sea, the dawn broke clear and hot, with not a trace of the electromagnetic violence through which our ship had just passed. We arrived at Crete after eating a nourishing breakfast on board. It was to be a long day sightseeing in relentless heat, so we really needed a good head start.
by kind courtesy of
At 8 am, we disembarked ship at the historic Heraklion harbour, which was first established during the 13th Century by wealthy Venetian merchant families seeking a sunny, warm winter escape.
From the harbour, we were bused to the nearby ancient palace city of Knossos.
by kind courtesy of
My first impression of Knossis was its immense size which totals 10 sq. km, [3.9 square miles]. That's three times larger than New York's Central Park [1.3 square miles].
by kind courtesy of
Above is an artist's rendition of the Palace as it was originally designed and built on top of a hill to maximize both the view and its security.My second impression of Knossos was of the overwhelming heat there. Though not yet 9 am, the thermometer registered at 37 degrees Celsius. That's blood heat! And since the temperature climbed steadily all day, I was very glad that I'd worn my coolest cotton frock and sturdy sneakers.
This palace was an ancient holy site, which supplied for all the needs of those using it, including indoor plumbing and reliable access to fresh water. Its infrastructure has remained in tact for 5000 years, mainly because it was not designed for public use.
by kind courtesy of
Not that I spoke German, in this lifetime, but with the aid of the guide's hand gestures, I was able to glean quite a lot of information. But the German group moved on while I was busily investigating Knossos' indoor plumbing system, so amazed was I to discover that they really did have efficient plumbing 3000 years BC!
The next group to which I attached myself spoke only Japanese, but after a few minutes of trying to decipher meaning, I realized that even their hand gestures did nothing to clarify the information being imparted. So I left that group and searched for a secluded, shaded place in which to relax and meditate.
The place I found located was on a slight promontory so it must have, at one time, commanded an imposing view of the sea. In 1976, it was almost overgrown by olive trees, whose leafy boughs provided plenty of shade and privacy, both of which I desperately needed.
Meditating was as easy as breathing in that peaceful place, and I was quickly transported back in time to witness Knossos as it used to be.
In that altered state, I easily experienced synesthesia, the ability hear colours and see sounds. Thus my experience of the art and music still felt as fresh and relevant to me then, as it had once been 5000 years ago.
History of Knossos
The place I found located was on a slight promontory so it must have, at one time, commanded an imposing view of the sea. In 1976, it was almost overgrown by olive trees, whose leafy boughs provided plenty of shade and privacy, both of which I desperately needed.
by kind courtesy of
In that altered state, I easily experienced synesthesia, the ability hear colours and see sounds. Thus my experience of the art and music still felt as fresh and relevant to me then, as it had once been 5000 years ago.
History of Knossos
Knossos was inhabited for several thousand years, beginning with a neolithic settlement sometime in the seventh millennium BC, and was abandoned after its destruction in 1375 BC which marked the end of Minoan civilization.
The first palace, on the low hill beside the Krairatos river was built around 1900 BC on the ruins of previous settlements. It was destroyed for the first time along with the other Protopalatial palaces around Crete at 1700 BC, probably by a large earthquake or foreign invaders. It was immediately rebuilt to an even more elaborate complex and until its abandonment was damaged several times during earthquakes, invasions, and in 1450 BC by the colossal volcanic eruption of Thera, and the invasion of Mycenaeans who used it as their capital as they ruled the island of Crete until 1375 BC.
above excerpt taken from http://www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/knossos.html
The palace of Knossos was undoubtedly the ceremonial and political centre of the Minoan civilization and culture. It appears as a maze of workrooms, living spaces and storerooms close to a central square. And approximate graphic view of some aspects of Cretan life in the Bronze Age is provided by restorations of the palace's indoor and outdoor murals, as it is also by the decorative motifs of the pottery and the insignia on the seals and sealings.
The palace was abandoned at some unknown time at the end of the Late Bronze Age, ca. 1380–1100 BC.[7] The occasion is not known for certain, but one of the many disasters that befell the palace is generally put forward. The abandoning population were probably Mycenaean Greeks, who had earlier occupied the city-state, and were using Linear B as its administrative script, as opposed to Linear A, the previous administrative script. The hill was never again a settlement or civic site, although squatters may have used it for a time.
Except for periods of abandonment, other cities were founded in the immediate vicinity, such as the Roman colony, and a Hellenistic Greek precedent. The population shifted to the new town of Chandax (modern Heraklion) during the 9th century AD. By the 13th century, it was called Makruteikhos 'Long Wall'; the bishops of Gortyn continued to call themselves Bishops of Knossos until the 19th century.[8] Today, the name is used only for the archaeological site now situated in the expanding suburbs of Heraklion.
above excerpt taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Knossos
by kind courtesy of
http://powerplaces.com/images/photo/crete_dolphins.jpg
http://powerplaces.com/images/photo/crete_dolphins.jpg
There is more about the Knossos Palace at these links:
- Knossos Background, Legend and History
- Ancient Greece: Knossos
- The Palace of Knossos
- Knossos as it looks and functions today
- An interactive virtual tour of Knossos today
Our cruise passengers were fortunate enough to spend a good few hours in ancient palace of Knossos. Even though several groups toured at the same time, the place was so huge, one could easily find a place to be alone. So my next 'perfect' quiet meditation spot was more centrally located. Taking off my sneakers, I sat cross-legged between a giant sculpture of bull horns that represented might and power of the Minoan culture.
by kind courtesy of
Modern day photos show that this sculpture has now been roped off to prevent further public access. But in 1976, I felt most privileged to take a precious 'time-out' to meditate literally upon this ancient artifact. From there, with eyes open, I could also view much of the central area of Knossos.
Too soon, it was time to leave Knossos and head back to Heraklion. But our time in Crete was not yet at an end. The buses next deposited us at Heraklion Archeological Museum, which houses the treasures of Knossos.
by kind courtesy of
It is one of the greatest museums in Greece[1] and the best in the world for Minoan art, as it contains the most notable and complete collection of artifacts of the Minoan civilization of Crete
It houses representative artifacts from all the periods of Cretan prehistory and history, covering a chronological span of over 5,500 years from the Neolithic period to Roman times.
The singularly important Minoan collection contains unique examples of Minoan art, many of them true masterpieces. The Heraklion Museum is rightly considered as the museum of Minoan culture par excellence worldwide.
We were all exhausted when, after the museum, we finally returned for a late lunch aboard ship. Donna took a nap for the duration of the journey across the Cretan trough to Santorini. But I took advantage of our last afternoon aboard ship to swim and sunbathe on the pool deck.
by kind courtesy of
Our ship could not anchor at Santorini because the waters were just too deep!
Santorini is essentially what remains after an enormous volcanic explosion that destroyed the earliest settlements on a formerly single island, and created the current geological caldera. A giant central, rectangular lagoon, which measures about 12 by 7 km (7.5 by 4.3 mi), is surrounded by 300 m (980 ft) high, steep cliffs on three sides. The main island slopes downward to the Aegean Sea. On the fourth side, the lagoon is separated from the sea by another much smaller island called Therasia; the lagoon is connected to the sea in two places, in the northwest and southwest. The depth of the caldera, at 400m, makes it possible for all but the largest ships to anchor anywhere in the protected bay; there is also a newly built marina at Vlychada, on the southwestern coast. The island's principal port is Athinias. The capital, Fira, clings to the top of the cliff looking down on the lagoon. The volcanic rocks present from the prior eruptions feature olivine and have a small presence of hornblende.[3]
excerpt taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santorini
Donkey Ride
Passengers leaving to explore the island were ferried to shore in small groups by a few motor launches. Once on terra firma, we were advised to climb the steep cliff via donkey. The alternative would have been using Shank's Pony.
I loved the idea of taking a donkey ride up to the top, taking photos of the view along the way. Yet I'd inexplicably worn a light summer frock instead of more sensible shorts or jeans. So modesty demanded that I walk!
But, after one glance at the sorry state of those stout, stone steps that the donkeys used - and regularly soiled - this young lady's modesty was quickly abandoned in the name of expediency.
by kind courtesy of
With consummate glee, I boarded that Cadillac of ancient conveyances, the donkey, and spent the journey trying to ignore the lecherous comments the view of my bronzed thighs elicited from delighted males.
Even though I didn't understand Greek, their intent was all too clear! So for the 12 minutes it took for our donkeys to ascend that cliff, I knew exactly what Donna had endured on our first morning in Athens. And I also knew that I'd have to go through it all over again on the way down.
by kind courtesy of
What a wonderful treat this gentle introduction Santorini was, and must have been, even in Minoan times. Today, less able travellers have the option of ascending via cable car to the top
by kind courtesy of
Excerpt taken from
Pistachio Ice Cream
by kind courtesy of
Duly deposited near the town of Fira, I looked for something to drink.The streets were filled with tourists, so I looked to the advertisements for visual signs of impending relief. That's how I chose a triple decker ice cream cone to slake my thirst, instead of water!
I had never even seen pistachio ice cream before and so was first attracted by its minty green colour. The taste was out of this world, and the sheer quantity of the unexpected treat certainly cooled my body! But I still needed water afterwards.
Eager to escape the crowds, I walked through the main street to the edge of town where I spied this fabulously romantic spot for a dinner for two, similar to the one shown, whilst searching for a drink of water!
by kind courtesy of
Alas, the time passed too quickly and before I could venture further, it was time to return to the ship. Our last evening aboard awaited, a splendid celebration of life in food and spirits, yet it was bitter-sweet farewell to passengers we had befriended as well as to the islands of Greece.
Craving some alone time after a wondrously happy but noisy, plate-crashing supper, I walked to the stern of the boat to watch the setting of the hot Aegean sun. It felt and looked like all that a sunset should be, except that I seemed to be the only passenger on that huge vessel to witness it.
Behind us the sun was also setting on Santorini, and I could only dream of being there. I knew in my heart that one day I would again visit this most romantic of islands, but next time in the company of someone I loved.
Craving some alone time after a wondrously happy but noisy, plate-crashing supper, I walked to the stern of the boat to watch the setting of the hot Aegean sun. It felt and looked like all that a sunset should be, except that I seemed to be the only passenger on that huge vessel to witness it.
The wonder of a sunset
is in no way affected by
a lack of onlookers
Behind us the sun was also setting on Santorini, and I could only dream of being there. I knew in my heart that one day I would again visit this most romantic of islands, but next time in the company of someone I loved.
by kind courtesy of
What are you waiting for?
Next Time
July 19 - 23
GREECE
Athens
Acropolis Hill - Parthenon - Fillopopous Monument - Sewer Cat
Peleponnese
Corinth - Nafplion -Sparta
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July 19-21 Athens and The Peleponnese
