Thursday, July 15
Donna and I were both awoken, rather abruptly, shortly before dawn. Right beneath our window, street vendors were noisily setting up their wares, shouting directions to helpers bearing heavy sacks and boxes. Protected from the sun beneath linen canopies, the daily commerce in the streets of Athens had already begun.
by kind courtesy of http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41XdqA3zF0L.jpg
Though we hadn't intended to go sight-seeing within a few feet of our hotel that morning, I decided that the opportunity to do so was a gift - a small 'Welcome to Greece' for us, from Hermes, the Greek god of commerce and travel!Donna and I had markedly different tastes in most things, including how and where to shop in Athens. So we agreed to go our separate ways at the edge of the market and meet back at the hotel in an hour or so.
I remained near the edge of the market, perusing food stalls, browsing for breakfast. But Donna, still full from her midnight snack with Kosta, wanted to shop for souvenirs, and had thus ventured further along the street and into the ever-thickening crowd.
by kind courtesy of http://www.travelwizard.com/asia/media/images/caution.jpg
In retrospect, our decision to go our separate ways was ill-informed. Although there were a lot of locals in evidence, few other tourists were about at that hour.Donna's cries for help were audible from almost half a block away, and were so strident that I wasted no time in elbowing my way through the crowd to find her.
All the blood had drained from her face, so shaken was she by her experience. A concerned group crowded closely around her, offering help. But all the attention was just too much for Donna who collapsed in tears as she staggered towards me.
It seemed that Donna had been mobbed by several male admirers who had tried to caress or pinch her as she browsed for her wares. Her shapely legs and really short shorts had, evidently, ignited their ardour!
by kind courtesy of cdna.lystit.com/photos/2012/12/21/nightcap-clothing-70s-blue-denim-short-in-70s-blue-product-3-5884841-787066983_large_flex.jpeg
by kind courtesy of cdna.lystit.com/photos/2012/12/21/nightcap-clothing-70s-blue-denim-short-in-70s-blue-product-3-5884841-787066983_large_flex.jpeg
I immediately took charge of my poor, distressed and sobbing companion, shepherding her off the street and back to the relative quiet of our hotel room, where I helped her to breathe deeply until she felt calmer and happier.
Crisis averted, we both became suddenly aware that the heat, even at that hour, was quite oppressive. Over glasses of tepid water, I quietly discussed with Donna how to avoid a repetition of this particular situation in future.
Poor Donna had only wanted to wear her short shorts to go shopping. In both town or country in Canada, US or UK, and indeed in most European countries, her cute jean cut-offs would have been the perfect choice. But they were evidently not the smart choice in countries, where male passions ignite more quickly, and more blatantly, than in the more sedate west.
Though we had been warned to dress modestly in Athens, my heart still went out to Donna. The city heat was definitely oppressive, and she had grown up in a hot, arid region in rural BC. It had thus made sense to her to wear only what climate necessitated.
Yet her choice not to dress according to Greek custom had drawn more male attention in five minutes than she had known how to handle! Feeling trapped and vulnerable, she had, understandably, become badly frightened.
On the plus side, Donna now understood that those 'travel warnings' were more than mere suggestions.
Eventually I remembered that while Hermes was the Olympian god of commerce and travel he could also be a 'trickster' whenever it benefited mankind. Since her alarming experience, Donna had indeed learned what NOT to do in Greece.
In 1972, I, too, had been trapped and vulnerable while visiting Morocco. Perhaps innocent souls have no way to learn such things but the hard way.
by kind courtesy of http://www1.artflakes.com/artwork/products/958784/poster/morpheus-and-iris.jpg?1344756870
We'd had precious little sleep the previous night, following a hectic few days of intense travelling by rail, ferry and bus. Now, we were physically drained and too emotionally exhausted even to manage food. So we agreed to let the world turn without us for a few hours, while we each succumbed to the arms of Morpheus.
by kind courtesy of http://www.vacationstogo.com/images/ports/maps/12_w.gif
Then, we headed for the student offices, where I acquired an International Student Card. These cards were available to anyone who held a valid student card in their own country. They allowed the holder to enjoy major discounts on everything from meals to museum entrance fees, from selected merchandise to short flights on planes holding dubious safety records.
by kind courtesy of http://greekfood.about.com/od/eggplant/r/moussaka.htm
Long refectory tables were set in a tree-shaded courtyard, off the main road. The food was served, canteen style, and you took your meal, sitting on one of the long benches on either side of the table, conversing with other students from all over the world.
It was from those students that I learned one could book a round trip flight from Athens to Cairo for $21 US. Of course the plane was a clunker, so you'd literally be putting your life into the hands of an unknown airline and possibly an under-trained pilot too! Plus you'd need to arrange pesky things like a visa and shots first.
by kind courtesy of http://www.youshouldtravel.com/images/content_images/egypt.jpg
Can you even imagine it costing only $21
Can you even imagine it costing only $21
to fly to the land of the Pharaohs?
Pondering that thought actually made me quite giddy till I remembered that while this flight might get off the ground, a safe landing was not necessarily to be expected.
Happily, I did not fantasize about boarding one of those dubious flights to Cairo for too long.
Sensible Donna brought me back to reality when she asked if anyone at the table had actually purchased a cut-price plane trip to Cairo. Nobody had, though everyone thought it a wonderful notion. So, for me, the entire idea was literally just flight of fancy. Egypt would have to wait for another trip.
Leaving the table chatter behind us, Donna and I then went shopping in the Plaka District, where I bought myself some beautifully embroidered and crocheted items - a shimmering evening dress, a string bikini, a long-fringed lacy shawl and an embroidered evening bag all for a mere $31. By the time we'd finished shopping, the sun had almost set.
Press here for a video about sightseeing in Athens with particular emphasis on shopping in the Plaka District. (8 minutes)
Press here for a video about sightseeing in Athens with particular emphasis on shopping in the Plaka District. (8 minutes)
We then caught a taxi and dragged our purchases to the restaurant atop Lykavittos Hill.
by kind courtesy of http://www.aviewoncities.com/img/athens/kvegr0695s.jpg
Though it would have been so romantic to have sipped on glasses wine while contemplating this scene with a friend or lover, Donna and I contented ourselves by toasting each other with cups of hot tea instead.
by kind courtesy of http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/View_of_the_Acropolis_from_Lykavittos_Hill.jpg
Back at the hotel, after a busy afternoon and evening in the dusty city, I really needed a shower. So, using my Burberry trench coat as a robe, I grabbed my towel and headed down the hall to the bathroom. There I discovered that our hotel's plumbing was a mystery known only to initiated few.
The shower was not the expected cramped cubicle but a small room that could have showered several bodies at once. It sported one single hot tap, a single cold tap, one small shower head and one large drain in the floor. In addition to these fixtures, there was a small window, opened to let the steam vent.
I tried for several minutes to turn on the water, but nothing would come out at all not even dust! Feeling frustrated and grimy beyond belief, I put my robe back on and padded, barefoot, down the stairs to the front desk, where the handsome Kosta flashed me an impossibly white smile, and asked, in broken English, what he could do for me.
The shower was not the expected cramped cubicle but a small room that could have showered several bodies at once. It sported one single hot tap, a single cold tap, one small shower head and one large drain in the floor. In addition to these fixtures, there was a small window, opened to let the steam vent.
I tried for several minutes to turn on the water, but nothing would come out at all not even dust! Feeling frustrated and grimy beyond belief, I put my robe back on and padded, barefoot, down the stairs to the front desk, where the handsome Kosta flashed me an impossibly white smile, and asked, in broken English, what he could do for me.
by kind courtesy of http://www.plumber-medford-oregon.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/plumbing-300x230.jpg
Confused but delighted, I blinked twice, then followed the young Greek back up to the bathroom, wondering if there was some plumbing technique I'd somehow overlooked. Once there, Kosta produced a wrench, with which he literally turned on the water for me.
There's something about a virile young man wielding a wrench that caused sparks of another kind to fly. But I managed to keep my focus and thanked Kosta kindly for his help, while ushering him out of that tiny room.
After 20 minutes of abandoning myself to the hotel's deliciously hot water, I felt totally regenerated and so clean that my hair squeaked. On exiting, I discovered a note that Kosta had secured to the outside of the shower room, asking me to join him for a drink when I was ready.
A drink sounded like the perfect way to wrap up my first full day in Athens. But I hadn't wanted to abandon Donna after her upsetting experience at the beginning of our day. Upon returning to my room, however, I found that my companion was sleeping so peacefully that she wouldn't even notice my absence. Dressing quickly, I scribbled Donna an explanatory note, in case she woke up and worried about me.
It was time for that quiet drink with Kosta, who was 'on duty' in the hotel's reception all night. Although we drank only unadulterated Coca Cola, our long, and mostly uninterrupted, conversation was pure joy.
by kind courtesy of http://www.tias.com/stores/adsbydee/pictures/123a.jpg
Friday, July 16
Greek Islands Cruise
Greek Islands Cruise
At noon, the Olympus Hotel bus deposited us at the entrance to Piraeus Docks, an enormous place, where several equally enormous cruise ships were docked. Walking through the corridor of ships made one feel curiously tiny, like an ant lost in the Parthenon.
Backpacks slung over our shoulders, Donna and I slowly navigated through throngs of passengers assembling in front of two very large ships, that would leave before our own. Eventually locating our own vessel, the spring returned to our step, and we almost ran up that gang-plank.
by kind courtesy of http://www.cruiseshipodyssey.com/orphfot.jpg
It had taken the Epirotiki Line two years to transform a somewhat spartan Irish ferry into a Aegean cruise ship. Yet The Orpheus was small, sleek and low by today's humongous cruise ship standards.Once aboard, we learned that the Orpheus' tentire passenger accommodation area had been completely rebuilt. The ship could now carry 372 passengers in 155 cabins, all with private bathroom facilities.
I was most delighted to discover that a brand new swimming pool had been also been added. In Vancouver, I was used to swimming 20 laps during my lunch hour in Canada, and had missed doing so on this trip. And while I didn't expect to find an Olympic length [50 meter] pool aboard ship, I very much welcomed the opportunity to get any watery exercise on this cruise.
Donna and I had arrived earlier than necessary, but we were still enthusiastically greeted and directed to our cabin. We'd chosen a humble interior cabin, since we didn't expect to do anything there, other than sleep, shower and dress. We would be on board for 3 nights, and were looking forward to an exciting cruise around the Greek Islands of Mykonos, Rhodes, Crete and Santorini.
Shortly after our ship set sail, we were all invited to join the Captain for a 'welcome aboard' drink on a spacious upper deck. It was a cordial though casual affair, lasting less than half an hour. Afterwards, we passengers were taken through the ship's mandatory safety procedures, at the lifeboat station assigned according to the location of one's cabin.
by kind courtesy of http://www.cruisesrfun.com/images/Image2-TMonaco/DSCN3126.JPG
An hour later, Donna and I gratefully deposited our backpacks in our windowless interior cabin. Then we took a leisurely tour of the ship till our allotted meal time. I noted, with delight, that there was a large area around the pool with lounging chairs specifically for sunbathers.Dinner was managed in shifts, according to which deck held one's cabin. But schedules aboard were flexible, so one could taken an earlier meal, if one had an appointment or excursion planned.
Our first planned excursion was a sunset trip to the tiny island of Mykonos - right after dinner.
The Orpheus docked in a picturesque harbour on the tiny island of Mykonos. Unable to locate Donna, I reluctantly left the ship on a launch, in the company of a few dozen nameless passengers.
by kind courtesy of http://www.greece-travel.gr/images/mykonos-evening-gt.jpg
Since childhood, I had dreamed of experiencing the sunset here, on Mykonos. I intended to view it from between the huge white windmills that were visible from the dock.But in my eagerness to disembark, I had overlooked the importance of finding a map that would help me to navigate the maze of narrow passageways that led to my destination.
The shadows were lengthening, and I knew only that the windmills were set close to the coast. There was no time to spare as the sun would soon be setting. So, trusting totally to fate, I headed towards the nearest likely location.
Short of time, I sprinted past buildings whose white-washed walls provided just enough reflected light for me to find my way through the undulating passageways without difficulty. My pace quickened when I neared the site, as if my feet knew exactly where they were going. And, as it happens, they did!
Moments later, I sprinted around one final corner and came upon the windmills from behind.
by kind courtesy of http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/4f/Mykonos_sunset_3.jpg/220px-Mykonos_sunset_3.jpg
There were those longed-for ancient sails etched against a golden-pink horizon. And beyond, the hot Aegean sun plunged into the azure sea.
My childhood dream
had come TRUE!
Most of them [windmills] were built by the Venetians in the 16th century, but construction continued into the early 20th century. They were primarily used to mill wheat. They were an important source of income for the inhabitants. Their use gradually declined until they ceased production in the middle of the 20th century.
above excerpt taken from by kind courtesy of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mykonos_windmills
Quietly, respectfully, I walked to the base of the nearest windmill and made my way around it till I was able to stare directly out at the western sea, with the warmth of the fading sun on my face.
With eyes closed, I took in all the sounds and aromas of this island and made a heart promise to myself. One day, I would visit this island again. But next time, my beloved would be standing by my side.
Of course, I had no idea, then, who that person would be. Yet, deep in my soul, I was certain that I would meet him....and that we'd visit Mykonos - and many other Greek Islands - together.
Of course, I had no idea, then, who that person would be. Yet, deep in my soul, I was certain that I would meet him....and that we'd visit Mykonos - and many other Greek Islands - together.
Retracing my steps, I returned to the dock with enough time to enjoy a demi-tasse of strong Turkish coffee at an outdoor cafe before climbing aboard the launch and returning to the ship.Most of those milling about the streets were fellow tourists from other ships, who, like us, had docked only for an hour or two. But even the frantic auras of these harried shoppers could not detract from this island's delightful appeal.
A few lucky holiday-makers were there for the season. They must have been the calmer visitors!
Back on board the ship, I eventually found Donna, much to my relief. She had decided to skip the Mykonos excursion because even Greek sunsets held no particular joy for her. I was dumbfounded that anyone could be blasé about a sunset. But then I hadn't grown up surrounded by mountains that prevented a true appreciation of the setting sun.
Since it was still early evening, I enjoyed a couple of hours of the ship's evening of entertainment before returning to my berth to sleep. Donna had long since disappeared, but I was not worried about her. Every girl needs to find some fun in her life!
Our short cruise would be crammed with exciting but exhausting sightseeing tours. So I took the opportunity to have a really good night's sleep while I could. Early the next morning, we would arrive at the island of Rhodes and spend a day discovering the markets and historical architecture of that island.
Next Time
July 17-18
GREEK ISLANDS CRUISE
Rhodes
Crete
Santorini
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July 17-18 Rhodes, Crete and Santorini
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