Monday July 19
Athens
We disembarked from our Greek Island cruise in Piraeus at 8.30am. Dropping our backpacks off with Kosta at the Olympus Hotel, Donna and I then caught a bus to Acropolis Hill where we discovered to our dismay, that The Parthenon itself was closed, because too many tourists had destabilized its floor.
Parthenon and Acropolis from Philopappos Hill
by kind courtesy of http://imgc.allpostersimages.com/images/P-473-488-90/27/2724/YHYND00Z/posters/anders-blomqvist-parthenon-and-acropolis-from-filopappou-hill-athens-greece.jpg
Never daunted, another intrepid tourist, a German History Professor, and I were determined to witness this wonder of the ancient world with our own eyes, and feet. The Parthenon looked huge and imposing then, especially since its magnificence was not then sullied by the supportive scaffolding that has since been erected.
The Parthenon today
by kind courtesy of http://www.thomascooktours.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/4203491.jpg
In the short half-hour that the fates allowed us, the Professor very efficiently related to me a canned version of Acropolis and Parthenon history.
He was a good teacher who spoke excellent English, so we strolled together around as much of the Parthenon as we could manage before irate guards threw us off the entire site.
Below is a painting of the Acropolis Hill as it once looked as depicted by artist Leo von Klenze in 1846.
by kind courtesy of http://www.thomascooktours.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/4203491.jpg
The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a high rocky outcrop above the city of Athens that contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon.
I thanked the Professor for a most informative tour of Acropolis Hill and bid him adieu. Then Donna and I left the Parthenon and went to explore the Philopappos Monument atop Mouseion Hill (the hill of the Muses) also known as
I thanked the Professor for a most informative tour of Acropolis Hill and bid him adieu. Then Donna and I left the Parthenon and went to explore the Philopappos Monument atop Mouseion Hill (the hill of the Muses) also known as
Philopappos Monument
The highest, 147 m., and farthest east of the group of hills on the south-west side of the city, the Mouseion, was so called by the Ancient Greeks after the legendary priest, seer and minstrel Museaus, a contemporary of Orpheus and Eumolpus, whose tomb, according to Pausanias, could be seen there. An earlier tradition associates this hill with the Muses; or the "Hill of the Muses".
Situated opposite the Acropolis, it is commonly known nowadays as the Hill of Philopappus from the monument erected on its summit by the Athenians early in the second century AD in honor of Gaius Julius Antiochus Philopappus, a philhellene Syrian prince, citizen of Athens, Roman consul and praetor. This monument, which was in fact a mausoleum, was about 12 m. in height by 10 m. in breadth, and was built of Pentelic marble on a poros platform. It was destroyed in the seventeenth century and only two-thirds of the north-east facade remain today.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/932967
Philopappos Hill of the Muses
Philopappos Hill is the highest of the three hills just west of the Acropolis, and is named after a monument erected at the top of the hill in honor of the Roman senator Philopappos.
In antiquity the hill was known as the Mouseion (Hill of the Muses). The Greek believed that the hill was inhabited by the nine muses and that Musaeus, a poet and disciple of Orpheus, was buried here.
The hill has a height of 147 meters (482 ft) and offers spectacular views of the Acropolis. Towards the south you can see as far as the sea.
The other two hills are known as the Hill of the Nymphs - formerly the site of a shrine dedicated to the nymphs - and the Hill of the Pnyx, where people assembled in the sixth century BC. The three hills now form one large park with a network of paths that lead along ancient monuments.
Philopappos Monument
The Roman consul and senator Gaius Julius Antiochus Epiphanes Philopappos, a powerful aristocrat and friend of the Roman emperor Trajan, admired Greek culture and long lived in Athens. He was seen in Athens as a benefactor, and often sponsored theater plays.
After he died, the Athenians built a marble tomb and monument for the senator. The monument, completed in 119 AD, is twelve meters high and was built at the highest point of the Philopappos Hill.
Now a ruin, the niches with statues of Philopappus and his grandfather Antiochus IV are still visible. The frieze below the niches depict Philopappos's entrance in 109 AD in the city of Athens as Roman consul.
excerpt taken from http://www.aviewoncities.com/athens/philopappos.htm
Amphitheatre of Herodes Atticus
by kind courtesy of http://www.geolocation.ws/v/W/File%3AAcropolis%20-%20Herodes%20Atticus%20theatre.jpg/-/en
At Philoppapos Hill, I met Helvecio from Brazil,who walked with Donna and me to view the amphitheatre of Herodes Atticus from above.
The acoustics here remain impressive, even after all these millenia. From the upper stands, I could hear Helvecio whispering on that circular stage.
It was built in 161 AD by the Athenian magnate Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife, Aspasia Annia Regilla. It was originally a steep-sloped amphitheater with a three-story stone front wall and a wooden roof made of expensive, cedar of Lebanon timber. It was used as a venue for music concerts with a capacity of 5,000. It lasted intact until it was destroyed and turned into a ruin by the Heruli in 267 AD
Modern concerts are still held here. The audience stands and the orchestra(stage) were restored using pentelic marble in the 1950s. Since then it has been the main venue of the Athens Festival, which runs from May through October each year, featuring a variety of acclaimed Greek as well as International performances
excerpt taken from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Odeon_of_Herodes_Atticus
The Cat Came Back
by kind courtesy of
Bidding adieu to Helvecio, we then enjoyed a leisurely lunch in a small cafe. But as we strolled back to the hotel, I heard a kitten meowing.To my ears it sounded really forlorn and unhappy. So of course, I had to stay and rescue the kitten from the storm drain, much to the amusement of nearby workmen.
With the tiny creature safely in my arms, Donna and I then walked it to a nearby park, following directions delivered by the helpful workmen with the aid of much mime and hand waving. Once there, we released the starving creature to its feline family.
There was a brief show of happiness at the reunion. Then the entire feline family ran at full speed straight towards the park's storm drain into which they promptly vanished.
Donna and I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. She had just spent 90 minutes watching me rescuing a wild kitten from what turned out to be its family home!
On the upside, a nubile Canadian girl kneeling on the sidewalk, with her arms reaching into a manhole for over an hour, presented a view that probably made time pass much more quickly for those young Greek workmen!
So what if the cat came back
the very next hour?!
Still laughing, Donna and I returned to our lunchtime restaurant washroom, where I was able to wash both myself and my filthy dress before exiting. Not for the first time on this Grand Tour did I walk about a European town in a soaking wet cotton frock.
The Peleponese
Collected stuff from hotel and caught bus to Corinth by 7.30 pm. Donna had earlier met and received an invitation from a Corinthian, Paul, to visit the ancient ruins with him. He had promised to meet our bus at the Corinth Depot at 7.30 pm. But he failed to materialize.
Instead, Good Samaritan John helped us to find accommodation in Corinth and then escorted us both for a drink. We desperately needed food and were about to bid John adieu and go in search of a restaurant when we unexpectedly bumped into Paul, who had been looking for us.
Paul then took us in his car on wild goose chase to find one particular restaurant, returning us to our pension at 1.30 am. By this time I was beyond livid with Paul! It had been a very long day, and both Donna and I were SO tired by the time we hit the sack.
Tuesday July 20
Corinth
by kind courtesy of
I awoke rested and relaxed at 8.10 am. Donna had to sort out a MasterCharge problem. So took the opportunity to go swimming alone in the warm, clear, blue waters of the Corinth Channel.
It was an awesome experience, swimming alone in that narrow strip of deep clear water, with the channel sides looming above me. And I also enjoyed the sheer exercise of traversing its 70 ft width several times before returning to the hotel to shower and dress, wash some clothes and write a letter to my Mom.
At 3.30 pm, after we'd eaten lunch, Donna's friend Paul collected and drove us to the ruins of Ancient Corinth where we three wandered about the huge yet deserted place for about 2 hours. There were no guides, or booksellers on site. We were the only live humans in evidence.
At 3.30 pm, after we'd eaten lunch, Donna's friend Paul collected and drove us to the ruins of Ancient Corinth where we three wandered about the huge yet deserted place for about 2 hours. There were no guides, or booksellers on site. We were the only live humans in evidence.
by kind courtesy of
by kind courtesy of
After an exhausting afternoon soaking in the ancient vibes in the open air in 104 F heat, Donna and I raced back to our room, to collect our backpacks just in time to catch the bus to Nafplion. Thankfully the heat abated significantly after sunset.
Nafplion
by kind courtesy of
We arrived at Nafplion at 8 pm but could not find any suitable accommodations at that hour.
The Youth Hostel was already full for the night, but had permission to rent out space on the roof for 20 drachma per person. Both of us were so tired that we both slept soundly, despite the discomfort. Breakfast was a further 20 drachma, and after a night spent on concrete we needed it.
Wednesday July 21
Bus to Sparta
From Nafplion, we took the bus to Argos, and from there caught our connection to Sparta.
by kind courtesy of
The journey to Sparta was bizarre, since the vehicle carried local passengers as well as tourists. All was calm until the road rose to the plateau in a series of bends rendering the trip more precarious.To avert panic, our bus driver put on a tape of lively, and very loud, Greek music. As if on cue, several people left their seats to dance in the narrow aisle.
I watched, spellbound, as they nimbly side-stepped, or otherwise avoided, a number of small children, squawking chickens and one oddly calm goat all of whom travelled in the aisle that day.
Every time the bus negotiated a sharp bend in the road, the heavy load fastened to its roof shifted sides, and the bus travelled precariously on two wheels till driving into the opposite bend cancelled the problem. Yet inside the bus, those intrepid dancers never missed a step!
The Greeks brought us everything else,
why not the Party Bus?!
by kind courtesy of
When I was not watching the scenery outside or enjoying the antics of the locals inside, I passed time by attempting to pronounce impossible phrases in Greek.
When my brain grew weary of company I attempted to solve the Greek puzzle ring I had purchased on a whim while in Athens. It was simply too noisy and the road too bumpy for me to even attempt to read.
by kind courtesy of
We stopped en route for refreshments that were provided by ex-pat Greeks who had returned home and set up businesses along the Greek bus routes. So we were well hydrated and fed by the time we reached Sparta.
Happy to be able to stretch our legs, Donna and I shopped for souvenirs before looking for lodging for the night. Then, once the sun had set, we joined the rest of the town in the square in the international pastime of people watching. Body language surpassed all other dialects that evening!
For tips on local etiquette in Greece press here
The next day we would travel to Diros to visit the famed Diros Caves, then return to Sparta before making our way to Patras and the ferry back to Corfu and Italy. But that night, we both slept like babies after a long day of travelling through the Greek countryside.
Next Time
July 22 - 24
GREECE
Peleponnese
Diros Caves
Sparta
Patras
Corfu
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July 22-24 The Peleponnese and Corfu
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