GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE:July 28-JULY 30Venice

Wednesday July 28 evening train to Venice

We arrived in Venice at dusk.  Since it was already 9 pm, Shirley and Donna left me on the Piazza outside the station, literally holding all the bags, while they searched for some reasonably priced accommodation for the three of us. While waiting, I watched the crowds and soaked in the atmosphere of the Venetian evening.

Eventually the girls returned, having secured one small room for $5 each, and that was without a breakfast or even a shower. But, since we were so late in arriving, we were grateful for even this expensive room as it sure beat the alternative of sleeping rough!

First, we all dropped our back packs off at our pension. Then we headed out to dine 'al fresco', finally relaxing over yet more pizza and a carafe of wine, in a tree-shaded courtyard whose lights twinkled late into that night.  

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The ambiance improved noticeably when Shirley treated us all to a second carafe of Italian vino!  And our ensuing hilarity in that outdoor location ensured that we all left there in a semi-drunken stupor, which definitely helped us all to fall fast asleep later.

Thursday July 29 

Venice

We awoke at 9 am, and ate breakfast and diligently sought a cheaper hotel with bathroom facilities, where we finally were able to shower and wash our clothes and hair.  Just before noon, refreshed in body and spirit, we finally emerged from our hotel and made our way to the Piazza de San Marco

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We arrived in time for the noon chimes of the clock-tower
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and the bells of the Campanile, which were very, VERY loud. 

To hear the bells for yourself, press here for a 6-minute Youtube of St Mark's Square in Venice

http://www.cntraveler.com/daily-traveler/2013/08/how-to-avoid-an-expensive-cafe-bill-in-venice-italy-082213/_jcr_content/par/cn_contentwell/par-main/cn_colctrl/par-col2/cn_blogpost/cn_image.size.st-marks-square-venice-getty.jpg

Afterwards, we treated ourselves to a rather expensive lunch in the Piazza's outdoor cafe, amid the pigeons, and the view of St Mark's amazing Basillica. 

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Murano

Having staved off hunger, we caught the next boat to Murano, an island just outside Venice that is famous for glass-making. 
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There we enjoyed an educational tour, and demonstration, of the centuries' old techniques of glass making.

To mark the occasion, I purchased a small, but perfect, red and white Murano Swan.  

At this point, I had not yet considered the problems inherent in transporting this gorgeous but delicate keepsake across the rest of Europe, much less carrying it flying it safely across the Atlantic at 37,000 feet.

http://www.polyvore.com/cgi/img-thing?.out=jpg&size=l&tid=2746752

When I next visit Venice, I shall make a point of bringing back one of these exquisite millefiori glass paperweights that would travel safely wrapped within a thick sock inside  a suitcase. 

Press here for a Youtube 

of Glass-making in Murano

Burano

Leaving Murano, we caught another boat to the island of Burano island where they hand-make items in exquisite lace.
http://www.venice-travel-secrets.com/image-files/burano2water.jpg

Though I drooled over each lace edged 'kerchief and these 'oh-so-feminine' parasols, the price of even the meanest item lay well beyond the capability of my meagre travel allowance. 

http://www.venice-travel-secrets.com/image-files/buranolace2water.jpg

So, while I could, I feasted my eyes on these lovingly hand-wrought works of art. Then, I heaved a soulful sigh and reluctantly moved on, carefully preserving to memory the gorgeousness of Burano's brightly coloured houses and intricate lacework.

http://cloneslace.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/clones-burano-masque0044.jpg

Torcello

I found central a restful haven after a hectic day of touring in our last boat stop.  We had arrived at Venice's oldest residential area, the now sparsely populated Torcello.
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We appeared to have arrived in a central area, which contained the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Church of Santa Fosca. And after a hectic day of touring, I found both of these edifices very restful, and spent a good hour meditating there in the evening sunshine.

Donna was very popular in Venice, and accumulated many male admirers including Mike and Dave from USA with whom we all had supper.

Afterwards, the six of us walked back through the Rialto area and back to our hotel. Shirley had picked up Renato, a local Italian boy, with  whom she later disappeared for the night.  Donna and I, meanwhile, went dancing with Chris and Dave, who eventually escorted us back to our hotel at 1 am.

Friday July 30 

Venice

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Since Shirley had not returned to the hotel in time, Donna and I packed her backpack for her. And since we were all booked on the overnight train to Vienna later, we also transported all our belongings to the lockers at the train station.

Doges Palace

Donna and I then caught a water taxi to St. Mark's Square and spent the rest of the morning feasting our eyes on the treasures of Venice. 

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Our first stop was the Doges palace, the official home of the top elected official in Venice till the late 18th century. 

Each wall, ceiling and room is so lavishly painted and decorated that the mere act of viewing such opulence makes your senses swim.

Press here to see inside the Doges Palace and The Basillica San Marco

At the Doges Palace, we spent an inordinate amount of time just gazing at the frescos and marbles and works of art that graced its interior. 

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But upon entering San Marco Basillica, I was asked to cover my shoulders! So I took my small cotton scarf off my head, and used it as a make-shift shawl instead.

It was all most perplexing since I had been taught - by Catholic nuns no less - that ladies should always cover their heads in Catholic churches. Apparently a lady's naked shoulders are equally offensive in such places!

Abiding by the strange rules, in no way detracted from my enjoyment of the Basillica's interior. And this video gives you a sense of the atmosphere and enormity of the building.

Press here for a video of the St Mark's interior

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Escaping from the crowds in St Mark's Square, Donna and went looking for a particular blue glass duck that I had glimpsed en route to the Piazza the previous morning, before our trip to the Murano glass works. Having now realized that this duck had also been a Murano product, I was even more determined to find and purchase it.

Donna also encountered more issues with her Mastercard! And since she was just as lost as I, we accompanied each other on that impromptu but extensive walking tour of Venice.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/3/3a/Venice,_Grand_Canal,_Rialto_Bridge.jpg

I eventually located and purchased my blue duck for the princely sum of $5.00 CDN.  Where had it been hiding? In plain sight, of course, right near the bridge over the Grand Canal, next to water buses or vaporati that connects Venice to the International Train Station.  

Enough said. 

All three of us we scheduled to catch the night train to Vienna at 9 pm and I, for one, was relieved to leave the frenetic crowds far behind us. Shirley joined Donna and me at the last minute, so loathed was she to bid farewell to her new Italian boyfriend, Renato.

The next morning we would arrive in a new country, and contend with its different customs, language and currency in an attempt to absorb some smattering of its culture in the few days we'd allotted. But Austria, land of music, held happy surprises for all of us that we could not possibly have anticipated as we boarded the express northwards to Austria.

Next Time

July 31 - August 9

AUSTRIA

Vienna

Salzburg

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE

July  31 - August 9: Austria

Vienna, Salzburg 

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: July 26-28Italy - Florence and Pisa

Sunday July 26                                                   Florence,  Italy                                                   When our train pulled into Bologna at 9 am, four extremely tired, but thankful young women disembarked, grateful for the long walk that stretched out our aching leg and back muscles. Bidding farewell to Diane, Shirley, Donna and I immediately sought a train that would take us to Florence.

We booked into our  hotel by noon, but only to drop off our backpacks. After several days of pizza or other finger foods, we needed - and unanimously decided - to treat ourselves to a first-class food at a first-class restaurant! To our delight, each delicious three-course meal cost us only $3.00 CDN. 

Happily satiated, we strolled back to our hotel, through ancient streets and green spaces that seemed tailor-made for lovers. There we cleansed ourselves and hand-washed our dirty clothes, leaving them to dry in our room, before the three of us went exploring for the remainder of the day.

Pisa

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/5/5d/Pisa_180.jpg/800px-Pisa_180.jpg

We caught a local train to Pisa, which lies about 100 km west of Florence.  The journey of an hour or so, was quite eventful, since the three of us had been well fed and thus had sufficient energy to entertain all aboard with song and laughter. 

The Leaning Tower was, of course, the main attraction. But, of the three of us, I was the only one to climb the 238 spiral steps to the very top of it. 

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It felt most odd to be standing at such a rakish angle to the ground.  Yet I remained there for a full half an hour, taking in the view while waiting for the sun to set so that I could take a photograph of the architectural details of the 800 year old Cathedral and Baptistry that lay immediately to the west of the slanted Bell Tower.

Descending the Tower's stone staircase, after my brain had adjusted to the slant of the building, was very peculiar. The degree of slant meant one both ascended and descended during each complete turn of the spiral.  So when I eventually did reach the bottom, I was completely discombobulated and had trouble standing upright for a good few minutes. Thank heavens Donna met and waited with me there, until my inner ears informed my brain that all was, indeed, well. 

Shirley, meanwhile, had attracted the attention of six Aussie boys who had offered all three of us a ride back to Florence. So, at twilight, we all dutifully piled into their van for an hilarious 2 hour journey. But the hilarity stopped rather quickly, when the van ran out of gas on the outskirts of Florence.

Our ever-resourceful Australian friends soon hailed another van of Aussies who drove all but the dead van's driver to a nearby campsite for some beers. After an hour or so of partying with them, Donna, Shirley and I walked and hitch-hiked back through Florence to the comfort of our hotel, finally arriving there at midnight. All three of us fell into bed and slept like logs!

Monday July 27

Florence

We woke at 9 am, to a breakfast of rotten coffee and worse bread rolls. After taking care of our ablutions and packing up our dried laundry, we all left for a tour of Florence: our first stop was

Michelangelo's David

http://lifedrawingplus.files.wordpress.com/2012/04/michelangelos_david.jpg

This sculpture of David shows the Bible story of David defeating Goliath with a slingshot and a rock.

It is unspeakably beautiful, three times the size of a human being, crafted by a Renaissance Master for the glory of God and the eternal joy of onlookers.

Michelangelo's David was commissioned in 1501, by the city government of Florence.  Originally it was meant to be seen from very far below, as a top-piece for the dome of Florence's Duomo (cathedral). So Michelangelo created the statue with a larger head and hands than that of a normal human.

But his patrons were so astounded by the beauty of the piece, and changed their minds about its being placed above the dome of the Duomo. Instead they put it in the piazza (square) in front of the Signoria - the government building of Florence, where all might freely see and admire it.

David became a potent symbol of the Republic of Florence, in its opposition to the notion of tyranny. By this time, the Di Medici family had infiltrated and subverted the Republic ideals of the city.  So the David represented a brief resurgence and a brief re-flowering of the democracy of Florence and was beloved by the city and its citizens.

Academy of Fine Arts, Florence

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Today the statue is housed in the Academy of Fine Arts of Florence.  In 1976, there were no line-ups to see David, we three girls simply walked into the Academy and stayed as long as we wished. I was, uncharacteristically, speechless in the presence of this incredible sculptured masterpiece. And as I slowly walked around it, my mind memorizing every chiselled and polished plane, tears of joy pricked my eyes. It was such an honour to even be in the same room as David!

As a girl, I had devoured many books and 

photos of Renaissance art and sculpture.

And they certainly gave me an idea of the

beauty and craftsmanship of this piece. 

But to actually be there, so close that I 

could have touched the toes of David, 

THAT was a dream come true for me! 

To this day I relish that 

precious moment, tears and all.

Press here for a 2-minute YouTube 

of Florence and Michelangelo's David

We finally emerged from seeing David, overwhelmed by the need to quickly find somewhere to eat an early lunch. En route, we met Aussie Brian and John from USA and then picnicked with them at Independence Piazza before heading for the Uffizi Gallery in Signioria Square.

Uffizi Gallery

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This gallery hosts works of art by great Italian artist such as Botticelli, Giotto, Cimabue, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci and Raffaello, just to name a few of the most famous. Its large collection has works from all centuries, but a large part dates back to the periods between the 12th and 17th centuries.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0b/Sandro_Botticelli

The Uffizi is thus where Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera  are kept. Here we caught up with the crowds, who were being escorted through the palace by guided tours delivered in multiple languages. There was no cordon around these exquisite paintings, so I was able to stand within inches of the painting, close enough to examine each brush strokes and almost to smell the paint.

http://www.paintinghere.org/UploadPic/Sandro%20Botticelli/big/La%20Primavera.jpg

Acting on impulse, I surreptitiously touched the painting of the orange grove beneath the foot of beauty, one of the three graces in the Primavera. Sadly, I was not psychically transported back in time to Botticelli's studios, nor was I magically endowed with the graces of chastity, beauty or love. But I did have one huge smile on my face for the remainder of that long day!

After being ushered through the Uffizi at an astonishingly fast pace, we three girls left the gallery, intent on purchasing our own artwork in the form of leather and silken goods that would be easy to carry through the rest of Europe with us in backpacks. 

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Hot Chocolate

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But the minute we stepped into the centre of the Piazza, the heavens opened up, forcing us to run for cover! We three dashed into a coffee shop at one corner of the square, where thoroughly enjoyed the most delectable hot chocolate EVER, made with globs of real cream.

There's nothing quite as glorious as getting drenched with your pals in a Florence cloudburst, and then warming up together over a delicious glass of piping hot chocolate...mmmm

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Il_Duomo_Florence_Italy.JPG

We then visited Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square), once of the most visited places in Europe. 

Here we saw the Florence Cathedral, The Basilica of St Mary of the Flower and Brunelleschi's Cupola. We also visited Giotto's Campanile, a 14th Century Belltower, and the Florence Baptistry.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence_Baptistery

The di Medici Chapel and the Church of San Lorenzo

The Medici Chapels were built as a personal sepulchre of the Medici family, right in the Basilica of San Lorenzo, considered the "official" church of the Medici family. 

The sculpted works began in 1520 by Michelangelo and finished by Giorgio Vasari in 1546 when Michelangelo was ordered to Rome.

The Capella Medici are two structures at the Basilica of San Lorenzo that date from the 16th and 17th centuries.  They were built as extensions to Brunelleschi's 15th century church, with the purpose of celebrating the Medici family, patrons of the church and Grand Dukes of Tuscany.  

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The Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy) was designed by Michelangelo.  The larger Capelle dei Principi (Chapel of the Princes) though proposed in the 16th century was not begun until the 17th century, its design being a collaboration between family and architects. 

above extract from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medici_Chapel

I was able to enter all the exhibits for free because of the International Student Card I'd purchased in Athens. But Shirley and Donna each paid the 'exorbitant' fee of $0.25 per exhibit.

We all arrived back at the Bed and Breakfast by 8 pm. We were definitely foot-weary but still ready to party. Donna even mentioned that she'd like to go drinking with three congenial guys. 

I mumbled from the bed, where I was massaging my feet, that the prospect of meeting any guys inside our hotel bedroom was extremely slim. 

At that precise moment, Shirley entered the room, escorted by three of the Aussies we'd met the previous day. Luckily I was already sitting down, because I just about collapsed in shock.

http://www.restaurantsinflorence.com/brac_vegetariano_firenze.html

Donna, Shirley and I then spent the next hour pruning and preening and were collected, eventually, at 10 pm.  The late hour and our group's lack of colloquial Italian resulted in our drinking beer in a milk bar till the management kicked us out at midnight.  The boys escorted us back to the Bed and Breakfast, where a stern looking landlady was waiting on the doorstep for our return at 12.45 am.

Wednesday July 28 

Florence

Slept fitfully till 9 am, then dressed, packed bags and waited till 11 am for the Aussie boys to return to collect Shirley. When they did not show, the three of us headed to the station where we deposited our backpacks in the large lockers for the day. We planned to leave for Venice that very afternoon.

Divested of our heavy packs, we then headed to the Ponte Vecchio the famed covered bridge that spans the Arno River in Florence. 

The Ponte Vecchio

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The Ponte Vecchio means "Old Bridge" and is a medieval, stone, closed-spandrel segment arch bridge over the River Arno in Florence. 

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Butchers once occupied the shops that was then (1976) home to many merchants selling jewellery, art, leather, silk and other souvenirs. I bought two silk scarves and a pair of the softest leather gloves I've ever worn.

We all ate far too much pizza, ice cream, lasagne and other foods today, partly because the Pitti Palace with its collections of Raphaels was closed and we'd planned no other activity in its place. 

Luckily we bumped into Brian (Aussie) and John (American) again with whom we chatted till it was time to catch our train for Bologna.

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Unbeknown to us, our train to Bologna, where would transfer to the Venice train, was a Trans European Express. This meant that a 2900 lire supplement was added for each passenger, despite the fact that we all carried Eurail passes. Although 2900 lire is barely $2 in today's devalued currency, in 1976 the supplement represented more than our daily living allowance.

So we were unceremoniously thrown off the train once the ticket inspector discovered that we had boarded it illegally, and then refused to pay the excess charge. An hour later, we completed our journey in a less luxurious train and transferred, in Bologna, to the evening train bound for Venice.

Next Time

July 28-30

ITALY

Venice

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE

July  28-30 Venice Italy

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: July 22-25 The Peleponnese and Corfu

Thursday July 22

The Peleponnese

Diros Caves

Next morning, we awoke, a bit bone weary but eager to see the much vaunted Diros Caves, which lie in the extreme south western corner of the Peleponnese. There are 5000 meters of subterranean caves that can be explored by boat and on foot.  It is said to be one of the most beautiful lake caves in the world. 

by kind courtesy of http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/e7/5b/95/caption.jpg

Everyone travelling with us that day was hushed into silence by the sheer magnificence that surrounded us.

There are no words that adequately describe being totally encompassed by a natural masterpiece. We puny humans simply had no choice but to surrender to our overwhelmed feelings as we floated in the beauty of Mother Nature's subterranean world.

Awestruck, we silently glided across that vast, still, clear water. I dipped my hand into the cold, velvety clean water and tasted it. Though the lake had formed all those millenia ago, the water deep inside the caves was fresh and sweet tasting. 

by kind courtesy of http://www.cruiserswiki.org/images/0/03/S_Peloponnese_Diros4.jpg

The atmosphere in our small boat was hushed and reverend. We were visiting the inside of a hugely vaulted Gothic Cathedral, created without bricks and mortar. This was Mother Nature's cathedral an enduring testament to the implacability of a single drop of water, repeated endlessly over time. 

The air within the caves was very still, and so quiet that you could hear people breathing - and if you focused your eyes outwardly, you could almost believe that the walls of the cave were breathing. Only the occasional sound of dripping water interrupted my reverie, as we floated silently past more fascinating natural artistry.

Press here for the Official 

Greek video of Diros Caves 

This 40 min. documentary is very detailed and gives a complete history of the caves from their discovery to present day.  

In 1976, the caves had been open to the public for only a decade, so Donna and I were among the first to climb into those small boats, and glide silently beneath countless living sculptures that had each been fashioned by eons of time and a single drop of water.

Areopolis

by kind courtesy of http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4e/1976_Summer_Olympics_logo.svg/220px-1976_Summer_Olympics_logo.svg.png

At 2 pm we went back to Areopolis in order to catch the bus to Gillion. But Donna and I arrived during siesta time, so nothing was moving, once our bus had left.

All around us were houses, with windows wide open, and televisions blaring the latest news from the Montreal Olympics.

We could hear the English commentary only faintly beneath the Greek translation. But even though it was masked, hearing that familiar accent was enough to make us feel suddenly very homesick for Canada.

Karpouzi

by kind courtesy of http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/40/Watermelons.jpg/220px-Watermelons.jpg

Feeling extremely thirsty, I purchased a medium sized karpouzi (watermelon) and shared it with Donna while we sat, sweltering in the shade of some trees.
by kind courtesy of http://www.fivestargreece.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/045-Areopolis-a.jpg

And it's just as well that we did. For on that particular day, in that deserted town square, or plateia, the temperature soared way beyond 100 F.

We didn't realize till much later that Areopolis was actually a coastal town! We could have been exploring its rocky shoreline and wading through tidal pools instead of sweating gallons!

Ah, the advantages of checking one's map ahead of arrival in a new place.

Gillion to Sparta

More than three hours after our arrival in Areopolis, Donna and I gratefully boarded our bus to Gillion where we changed to the Sparta bus, arriving there at 8.15 pm. Without hesitation we returned to the Cyprus Hotel for our overnight stay. 

I, personally, was only too ready to shed my dusty and travel worn clothing, thoroughly enjoying a top to-toe wash at the sink before dressing in fresh attire. Donna also washed up and we both changed clothes before stepping into the square in search of food!

Sparta

by kind courtesy of http://www.renespizza.net/images/flash-header.png

For Pizza and Coke, we paid the exorbitant amount of 50 drachmas each - one-third of the total cost of our hotel room for that night!  But we were so hungry, we paid whatever was asked!

We then took our food to an empty table near the edge of the square, to more fully participate in the evening ritual of people watching.

Wardrobe malfunction
Seeking only to cool my still overheated body, I had changed into shorts and the crocheted bikini top that I had purchased at the Plaka in Athens. 

by kind courtesy of http://www.crochetconcupiscence.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/il_570xN-1.185060628.jpg

But while I felt deliciously cool in the still, warm air of Sparta, my revealing outfit garnered a lot of disapproving stares from women, and way too much attention from some of the males that night! 

by kind courtesy of http://www.globecraft.com/WebProductsS/45-02.jpg

I was about to capitulate to the clear yet unspoken pressure by returning to the hotel in order to change clothes yet again, when two men approached our table.

They had recognized the small Canada pin that I had strategically placed on my bikini top, and introduced themselves to us as Christos and Pete, very polite and attentive Canadian Greeks from Montreal, who spoke perfect English.

Sparta walkabout

We were so thankful when these two offered to act as our guides and bodyguards for the rest of that evening! After the mandatory walkabout in the square, the four of us enjoyed a few hours of disco dancing at a local club, till our stalwart defenders returned Donna and me to the Cyprus Hotel at 2 am.

Friday July 23

Patras to Corfu

We awoke at 7.30 am, despite our very late night. We leisurely showered, breakfasted and split a $50 traveler's cheque between us before catching the 10 am bus to Patras. That trip took all day to complete, and with no air conditioning, felt like were encased in a travelling steam bath. But our experience improved markedly when Canadians Seymour from Montreal and Garth from Vancouver introduced themselves to us. 

Ferry to Corfu

by kind courtesy of http://www.ferries.gr/booking/images/greekferrieseast1.gif

At Patras, we four enjoyed an early supper together then headed to the dock to catch our ferry to Corfu. Donna and I had purchased our tickets the week before, in Athens, and so had not realized there might be more than one ferry leaving that night.

We were thus chagrined to learn, after queuing for an hour, that we had been booked on a totally different ferry from our companions. We were in the wrong place to catch our ferry.

Reluctantly bidding Seymour and Garth farewell, we eventually boarded the correct ferry, where we had pre-purchased a cabin. I luxuriated in a hot shower and change of clothes before going on deck.  The trip would take all night, and our pre-paid fare included a typical Greek supper, which was to be served at 11 pm. 

Damsel in Distress

by kind courtesy of http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large/25-damsel-in-distress-granger.jpg

While awaiting the Greek supper hour, we were enjoying cool sea breezes after a stiflingly hot day on deck, Donna and I met Shirley, a 20 year old from New Zealand.

She looked panic-stricken, unkempt, wild-eyed and in dire need of rescuing. For it seemed her voluptuous charms had fired the passions of an amorous middle-aged Greek businessman who had purchased a first-class cabin 'for her'.

Being young and somewhat naive, Shirley had not realized the kind of price she would be expected to pay him for sharing that expensive cabin. Before we met her, Shirley had felt trapped and obligated by this man's unseemly generosity!

Donna and I reassured her, as gently as possible, that her only obligation on this journey was to herself. We also told her of our own experiences regarding the alarming expectations of licentious males, and how we'd learned to handle them.

Though horrified by our frank revelations, Shirley got the message and was determined not to become that particular rich Greek's 'late night dessert'.  And since Donna and I had two sets of bunks in our cabin, we naturally invited Shirley to spend the night with us - for her safety and our peace of mind. 

Greek supper

by kind courtesy of http://static.ow.ly/photos/normal/1NtUT.jpg

Once Shirley's rescue and sleeping arrangements were completed, we all relaxed and enjoyed a most sumptuous supper on board. Then somewhere around 2 am, we all tried to sleep.

But Shirley, obviously very upset by her close call with a sleazebag, became physically nauseous and spent all night running back and forth to the bathroom. Since she had taken the top bunk of my bed, every time she hurriedly climbed down, I woke up.

Saturday July 24

CORFU

Donna slept like a log throughout the night and was the first one awake next morning. Shirley, and therefore I, had finally fallen asleep around dawn and were both snoozing peacefully when Donna woke us up because the ferry was entering the harbour at Corfu.

Kontakali Hostel

by kind courtesy of http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/7442329904_411eb9a402_h.jpg

We docked at 9.30 am and the three of us caught a taxi to Kontakali Hostel, arriving there at 10 am. 

The hostel was in an abysmal state. The bunk mattresses were black and stank of who knows what! And the sheets they offered to cover the mattresses were equally disgustingly filthy. Still, we were grateful to have a roof over our heads, as well as somewhere to actually do laundry.

After hanging our freshly washed clothes on the washing line to dry, the three of us headed into Kerkyra for the rest of the morning. And while we were there, a fierce thunderstorm drenched us, forcing us to return to the hostel to change into the few dry clothes we still had left.

Since it was still raining, and she was still feeling poorly, Shirley decided to remain at the hostel for the afternoon, and volunteered to look after our things so that Donna and I could continue exploring.

Deciding that we couldn't possibly get any wetter that day, the two of us put on our swimsuits and headed for the beach. If we couldn't sunbathe, at least we could swim, or play in that azure blue water. 

Water polo

by kind courtesy of http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/sportlibrary/sportlibrary0708/sportlibrary070800031/1518487-a-male-water-polo-player-goes-after-a-loose-ball-during-a-game.jpg

A few minutes later, five  brawny, athletic Dutch boys  cavorted with us in the shallows and then invited us to play water polo with them.  They neglected to mention till later that they were members of an amateur Dutch water polo team!

During the half hour that followed, Donna and I discovered two very important things:

• playing water polo with muscular young men can also be hugely exhausting as well as exhilarating
• a fashion bikini is not the recommended garment to wear while participating in this energetic sport

Despite having had two hefty guys helping on our side, the team Donna and I were on was well and truly thrashed!  But we had enjoyed a good laugh and our bodies were grateful for that gruelling workout, especially after enduring several days of sedentary bus travel through the Peloponnese.

Shirley was fast asleep on the bottom bunk, when we returned to Kontokali Hostel rescue our laundry and change into shorts and t-shirts. We left her a note and went to share "Afternoon Tea" with two Scottish hostelers in an adjoining dormitory.

The rain, that began long before our afternoon polo game, increased steadily intensity during the evening and continued overnight. 

Kontokali Youth Hostel Cafeteria

Disappointed that our plans to explore the island had been scuttled by the weather, Donna and I headed to the Youth Hostel cafeteria to mingle with other sullenly sodden students. Shirley woke up and joined us there, but still felt too ill to mingle, and so returned to her bunk for the night at 8 pm.

There was a motley crew at the cafeteria that night. First we met Dave from Houston who was hitting on all the ladies. There was no live entertainment, just a juke box. So there was nothing to do but dance and drink, which we did till our stomachs began to growl in hunger. 

by kind courtesy of http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/02/cf/56/0e/alobar.jpghttp://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/02/cf/56/0e/alobar.jpg

Oddly, this cafeteria served no food, only booze. So, our minds might have been a little befuddled when Donna and I decided to join Dave on a semi-drunken trip to Kontokali Village.

As it turned out, Dave had an inspired idea! The three of us shared kalamari (squid) and yet another bottle of retsina in an outdoor restaurant that flanked the beach. 

Upon our eventual return to the now over-crowded Youth Hostel cafeteria, I ordered a Coke then graciously declined Houston Dave's amorous but highly indecent proposition.

Instead I danced, and later chatted amiably with a 7'4" Dane, who happily protected me from any further indelicate suggestions from Dave.  

Oozo, karpouzi and dance
by kind courtesy of http://www.revistaair.net/Birth%2014_archivos/image008.jpg

The evening included endless shot glasses of ouzo, Coke chasers, karbusi and a lot of dancing.

Later, some locals joined us and showed us all how real Greeks dance. So, of course, we all had to give it a go - with frequently hilarious results.

Press here to see  how to do a Greek Dance

The noisy party wound down slowly, sputtering to a close around 3 am. Apparently, we hostelers had needed a lot of alcoholic coaxing in order to overlook the disgusting state of our sleeping quarters.

Saturday July 25 
Corfu to Brindisi 

In my case, the coaxing worked, since I completely disregarded the state of my bed! I climbed up to the top bunk, collapsed on my mattress and slept like a log for three hours. Then I turned over and promptly fell 5 feet, landing in a heap on the floor. 

My sudden descent had jarred awake everyone in that room!  But their rude awakening was a blessing in disguise, since it was just after 6 am and our ferry for Brindisi would leave at 8 am.

Donna, Shirley and I packed up our belongings, and 'treated' ourselves to a breakfast of dry bread and stale coke before heading for the dock. It was as much as our beleaguered digestive systems could handle.

Dock at Corfu

by kind courtesy of http://www.corfu-hotels.travel/data/420/unknow_general/vidos.jpg

The sun was rising as we began walking to the dock, and we arrived there in plenty of time for the ferry to Italy.

Unfortunately our ship was nowhere to be seen. It had been delayed by 3 hours. So we spend most of the morning just waiting for it to arrive. 

The weather had finally become hot and dry, and we all wanted to stay in Corfu. But Donna and I had no choice but to leave because we had pre-purchased those darn ferry tickets in Athens.

Shirley had decided to travel to Italy with us, as she felt herself too naive to negotiate Corfu without us watching out for her.

I will return to this magical island to spend 

several weeks exploring its secret places, 

plus another couple of weeks sunbathing

and swimming in its pristine water.

The sun will be shining then, and I will 

be there with someone I adore! 

So let it be written, so let it be done!

We passed a restful day en route to Brindisi and by mid afternoon Shirley's tummy bug, thankfully, seemed to have passed, so she felt more sociable.  We girls then relaxed together by the pool, shared that day's meals and generally got to know a little more about Shirley and her life in Dunedin, on the South Island of New Zealand.

Brindisi
by kind courtesy of http://central.languagepod101.com/stockphoto/media/10910&v=fit512.jpg

By 8 pm, Italian time, we docked at  Brindisi. There we chose to eat a mediocre meal, at horribly inflated prices, close to the railway station from which we later caught the night train to Bologna. 

We met an English girl, named Diane, in our compartment, and we all chatted amiably but intermittently through a pretty rough train voyage. 

No couchettes had been available, so the four of us were forced to sit up for the entire 25 hour journey, dozing as and when we could. Despite using my trusty Burberry as a warm blanket, I had thus startled awake several times during the night. 

Being awake while our train ploughed through the darkness of an endless Italian night was miserable. The moon was barely a sliver, so I could see nothing but shadows outside my window and, sadly, was far too tired even to read. 

Instead, I kept my mind focused on the architectural and artistic glories upon which we would feast our eyes the very next day in the northern cities of Florence and Pisa.

Next Time

July 26 - 28

ITALY

Bologna

Florence

Pisa

Venice

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE

July  26-28 Florence, Pisa and Venice Italy