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Friday, October 18, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE:
July 28-JULY 30
Venice

Wednesday July 28 evening train to Venice
We arrived in Venice at dusk.  Since it was already 9 pm, Shirley and Donna left me on the Piazza outside the station, literally holding all the bags, while they searched for some reasonably priced accommodation for the three of us. While waiting, I watched the crowds and soaked in the atmosphere of the Venetian evening.

Eventually the girls returned, having secured one small room for $5 each, and that was without a breakfast or even a shower. But, since we were so late in arriving, we were grateful for even this expensive room as it sure beat the alternative of sleeping rough!

First, we all dropped our back packs off at our pension. Then we headed out to dine 'al fresco', finally relaxing over yet more pizza and a carafe of wine, in a tree-shaded courtyard whose lights twinkled late into that night.  


The ambiance improved noticeably when Shirley treated us all to a second carafe of Italian vino!  And our ensuing hilarity in that outdoor location ensured that we all left there in a semi-drunken stupor, which definitely helped us all to fall fast asleep later.

Thursday July 29 
Venice
We awoke at 9 am, and ate breakfast and diligently sought a cheaper hotel with bathroom facilities, where we finally were able to shower and wash our clothes and hair.  Just before noon, refreshed in body and spirit, we finally emerged from our hotel and made our way to the Piazza de San Marco

We arrived in time for the noon chimes of the clock-tower
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and the bells of the Campanile, which were very, VERY loud. 


Afterwards, we treated ourselves to a rather expensive lunch in the Piazza's outdoor cafe, amid the pigeons, and the view of St Mark's amazing Basillica. 

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Having staved off hunger, we caught the next boat to Murano, an island just outside Venice that is famous for glass-making. 
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There we enjoyed an educational tour, and demonstration, of the centuries' old techniques of glass making.

To mark the occasion, I purchased a small, but perfect, red and white Murano Swan.  

At this point, I had not yet considered the problems inherent in transporting this gorgeous but delicate keepsake across the rest of Europe, much less carrying it flying it safely across the Atlantic at 37,000 feet.

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When I next visit Venice, I shall make a point of bringing back one of these exquisite millefiori glass paperweights that would travel safely wrapped within a thick sock inside  a suitcase. 


Burano
Leaving Murano, we caught another boat to the island of Burano island where they hand-make items in exquisite lace.
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Though I drooled over each lace edged 'kerchief and these 'oh-so-feminine' parasols, the price of even the meanest item lay well beyond the capability of my meagre travel allowance. 
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So, while I could, I feasted my eyes on these lovingly hand-wrought works of art. Then, I heaved a soulful sigh and reluctantly moved on, carefully preserving to memory the gorgeousness of Burano's brightly coloured houses and intricate lacework.

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I found central a restful haven after a hectic day of touring in our last boat stop.  We had arrived at Venice's oldest residential area, the now sparsely populated Torcello.
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We appeared to have arrived in a central area, which contained the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and the Church of Santa Fosca. And after a hectic day of touring, I found both of these edifices very restful, and spent a good hour meditating there in the evening sunshine.

Donna was very popular in Venice, and accumulated many male admirers including Mike and Dave from USA with whom we all had supper.

Afterwards, the six of us walked back through the Rialto area and back to our hotel. Shirley had picked up Renato, a local Italian boy, with  whom she later disappeared for the night.  Donna and I, meanwhile, went dancing with Chris and Dave, who eventually escorted us back to our hotel at 1 am.

Friday July 30 
Venice
Since Shirley had not returned to the hotel in time, Donna and I packed her backpack for her. And since we were all booked on the overnight train to Vienna later, we also transported all our belongings to the lockers at the train station.

Doges Palace
Donna and I then caught a water taxi to St. Mark's Square and spent the rest of the morning feasting our eyes on the treasures of Venice. 
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Our first stop was the Doges palace, the official home of the top elected official in Venice till the late 18th century. 

Each wall, ceiling and room is so lavishly painted and decorated that the mere act of viewing such opulence makes your senses swim.


At the Doges Palace, we spent an inordinate amount of time just gazing at the frescos and marbles and works of art that graced its interior. 
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But upon entering San Marco Basillica, I was asked to cover my shoulders! So I took my small cotton scarf off my head, and used it as a make-shift shawl instead.

It was all most perplexing since I had been taught - by Catholic nuns no less - that ladies should always cover their heads in Catholic churches. Apparently a lady's naked shoulders are equally offensive in such places!

Abiding by the strange rules, in no way detracted from my enjoyment of the Basillica's interior. And this video gives you a sense of the atmosphere and enormity of the building.


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Escaping from the crowds in St Mark's Square, Donna and went looking for a particular blue glass duck that I had glimpsed en route to the Piazza the previous morning, before our trip to the Murano glass works. Having now realized that this duck had also been a Murano product, I was even more determined to find and purchase it.

Donna also encountered more issues with her Mastercard! And since she was just as lost as I, we accompanied each other on that impromptu but extensive walking tour of Venice.
I eventually located and purchased my blue duck for the princely sum of $5.00 CDN.  Where had it been hiding? In plain sight, of course, right near the bridge over the Grand Canal, next to water buses or vaporati that connects Venice to the International Train Station.  

Enough said. 

All three of us we scheduled to catch the night train to Vienna at 9 pm and I, for one, was relieved to leave the frenetic crowds far behind us. Shirley joined Donna and me at the last minute, so loathed was she to bid farewell to her new Italian boyfriend, Renato.

The next morning we would arrive in a new country, and contend with its different customs, language and currency in an attempt to absorb some smattering of its culture in the few days we'd allotted. But Austria, land of music, held happy surprises for all of us that we could not possibly have anticipated as we boarded the express northwards to Austria.

Next Time
July 31 - August 9
AUSTRIA

Vienna

Salzburg
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
July  31 - August 9: Austria
Vienna, Salzburg 

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