Thursday July 22
The Peleponnese
Diros Caves
Next morning, we awoke, a bit bone weary but eager to see the much vaunted Diros Caves, which lie in the extreme south western corner of the Peleponnese. There are 5000 meters of subterranean caves that can be explored by boat and on foot. It is said to be one of the most beautiful lake caves in the world.
by kind courtesy of http://media-cdn.tripadvisor.com/media/photo-s/01/e7/5b/95/caption.jpg
Everyone travelling with us that day was hushed into silence by the sheer magnificence that surrounded us.
There are no words that adequately describe being totally encompassed by a natural masterpiece. We puny humans simply had no choice but to surrender to our overwhelmed feelings as we floated in the beauty of Mother Nature's subterranean world.
There are no words that adequately describe being totally encompassed by a natural masterpiece. We puny humans simply had no choice but to surrender to our overwhelmed feelings as we floated in the beauty of Mother Nature's subterranean world.
Awestruck, we silently glided across that vast, still, clear water. I dipped my hand into the cold, velvety clean water and tasted it. Though the lake had formed all those millenia ago, the water deep inside the caves was fresh and sweet tasting.
by kind courtesy of http://www.cruiserswiki.org/images/0/03/S_Peloponnese_Diros4.jpg
The atmosphere in our small boat was hushed and reverend. We were visiting the inside of a hugely vaulted Gothic Cathedral, created without bricks and mortar. This was Mother Nature's cathedral an enduring testament to the implacability of a single drop of water, repeated endlessly over time.
The air within the caves was very still, and so quiet that you could hear people breathing - and if you focused your eyes outwardly, you could almost believe that the walls of the cave were breathing. Only the occasional sound of dripping water interrupted my reverie, as we floated silently past more fascinating natural artistry.
This 40 min. documentary is very detailed and gives a complete history of the caves from their discovery to present day.
In 1976, the caves had been open to the public for only a decade, so Donna and I were among the first to climb into those small boats, and glide silently beneath countless living sculptures that had each been fashioned by eons of time and a single drop of water.
by kind courtesy of http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/4e/1976_Summer_Olympics_logo.svg/220px-1976_Summer_Olympics_logo.svg.png
At 2 pm we went back to Areopolis in order to catch the bus to Gillion. But Donna and I arrived during siesta time, so nothing was moving, once our bus had left.All around us were houses, with windows wide open, and televisions blaring the latest news from the Montreal Olympics.
We could hear the English commentary only faintly beneath the Greek translation. But even though it was masked, hearing that familiar accent was enough to make us feel suddenly very homesick for Canada.
Karpouzi
by kind courtesy of http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/40/Watermelons.jpg/220px-Watermelons.jpg
by kind courtesy of http://www.fivestargreece.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/045-Areopolis-a.jpg
We didn't realize till much later that Areopolis was actually a coastal town! We could have been exploring its rocky shoreline and wading through tidal pools instead of sweating gallons!
Ah, the advantages of checking one's map ahead of arrival in a new place.
Gillion to Sparta
More than three hours after our arrival in Areopolis, Donna and I gratefully boarded our bus to Gillion where we changed to the Sparta bus, arriving there at 8.15 pm. Without hesitation we returned to the Cyprus Hotel for our overnight stay.
I, personally, was only too ready to shed my dusty and travel worn clothing, thoroughly enjoying a top to-toe wash at the sink before dressing in fresh attire. Donna also washed up and we both changed clothes before stepping into the square in search of food!
by kind courtesy of http://www.renespizza.net/images/flash-header.png
For Pizza and Coke, we paid the exorbitant amount of 50 drachmas each - one-third of the total cost of our hotel room for that night! But we were so hungry, we paid whatever was asked!We then took our food to an empty table near the edge of the square, to more fully participate in the evening ritual of people watching.
Wardrobe malfunction
Seeking only to cool my still overheated body, I had changed into shorts and the crocheted bikini top that I had purchased at the Plaka in Athens.
by kind courtesy of http://www.crochetconcupiscence.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/il_570xN-1.185060628.jpg
But while I felt deliciously cool in the still, warm air of Sparta, my revealing outfit garnered a lot of disapproving stares from women, and way too much attention from some of the males that night!
by kind courtesy of http://www.globecraft.com/WebProductsS/45-02.jpg
I was about to capitulate to the clear yet unspoken pressure by returning to the hotel in order to change clothes yet again, when two men approached our table.They had recognized the small Canada pin that I had strategically placed on my bikini top, and introduced themselves to us as Christos and Pete, very polite and attentive Canadian Greeks from Montreal, who spoke perfect English.
Sparta walkabout
We were so thankful when these two offered to act as our guides and bodyguards for the rest of that evening! After the mandatory walkabout in the square, the four of us enjoyed a few hours of disco dancing at a local club, till our stalwart defenders returned Donna and me to the Cyprus Hotel at 2 am.
Friday July 23
Patras to Corfu
We awoke at 7.30 am, despite our very late night. We leisurely showered, breakfasted and split a $50 traveler's cheque between us before catching the 10 am bus to Patras. That trip took all day to complete, and with no air conditioning, felt like were encased in a travelling steam bath. But our experience improved markedly when Canadians Seymour from Montreal and Garth from Vancouver introduced themselves to us.
Ferry to Corfu
by kind courtesy of http://www.ferries.gr/booking/images/greekferrieseast1.gif
At Patras, we four enjoyed an early supper together then headed to the dock to catch our ferry to Corfu. Donna and I had purchased our tickets the week before, in Athens, and so had not realized there might be more than one ferry leaving that night.
We were thus chagrined to learn, after queuing for an hour, that we had been booked on a totally different ferry from our companions. We were in the wrong place to catch our ferry.
Reluctantly bidding Seymour and Garth farewell, we eventually boarded the correct ferry, where we had pre-purchased a cabin. I luxuriated in a hot shower and change of clothes before going on deck. The trip would take all night, and our pre-paid fare included a typical Greek supper, which was to be served at 11 pm.
Damsel in Distress
by kind courtesy of http://images.fineartamerica.com/images-medium-large/25-damsel-in-distress-granger.jpg
She looked panic-stricken, unkempt, wild-eyed and in dire need of rescuing. For it seemed her voluptuous charms had fired the passions of an amorous middle-aged Greek businessman who had purchased a first-class cabin 'for her'.
Being young and somewhat naive, Shirley had not realized the kind of price she would be expected to pay him for sharing that expensive cabin. Before we met her, Shirley had felt trapped and obligated by this man's unseemly generosity!
Donna and I reassured her, as gently as possible, that her only obligation on this journey was to herself. We also told her of our own experiences regarding the alarming expectations of licentious males, and how we'd learned to handle them.
Though horrified by our frank revelations, Shirley got the message and was determined not to become that particular rich Greek's 'late night dessert'. And since Donna and I had two sets of bunks in our cabin, we naturally invited Shirley to spend the night with us - for her safety and our peace of mind.
Greek supper
by kind courtesy of http://static.ow.ly/photos/normal/1NtUT.jpg
Once Shirley's rescue and sleeping arrangements were completed, we all relaxed and enjoyed a most sumptuous supper on board. Then somewhere around 2 am, we all tried to sleep.But Shirley, obviously very upset by her close call with a sleazebag, became physically nauseous and spent all night running back and forth to the bathroom. Since she had taken the top bunk of my bed, every time she hurriedly climbed down, I woke up.
Saturday July 24
Donna slept like a log throughout the night and was the first one awake next morning. Shirley, and therefore I, had finally fallen asleep around dawn and were both snoozing peacefully when Donna woke us up because the ferry was entering the harbour at Corfu.
Kontakali Hostel
by kind courtesy of http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/7442329904_411eb9a402_h.jpg
We docked at 9.30 am and the three of us caught a taxi to Kontakali Hostel, arriving there at 10 am.
The hostel was in an abysmal state. The bunk mattresses were black and stank of who knows what! And the sheets they offered to cover the mattresses were equally disgustingly filthy. Still, we were grateful to have a roof over our heads, as well as somewhere to actually do laundry.
After hanging our freshly washed clothes on the washing line to dry, the three of us headed into Kerkyra for the rest of the morning. And while we were there, a fierce thunderstorm drenched us, forcing us to return to the hostel to change into the few dry clothes we still had left.
Since it was still raining, and she was still feeling poorly, Shirley decided to remain at the hostel for the afternoon, and volunteered to look after our things so that Donna and I could continue exploring.
Deciding that we couldn't possibly get any wetter that day, the two of us put on our swimsuits and headed for the beach. If we couldn't sunbathe, at least we could swim, or play in that azure blue water.
Deciding that we couldn't possibly get any wetter that day, the two of us put on our swimsuits and headed for the beach. If we couldn't sunbathe, at least we could swim, or play in that azure blue water.
Water polo
by kind courtesy of http://us.123rf.com/400wm/400/400/sportlibrary/sportlibrary0708/sportlibrary070800031/1518487-a-male-water-polo-player-goes-after-a-loose-ball-during-a-game.jpg
A few minutes later, five brawny, athletic Dutch boys cavorted with us in the shallows and then invited us to play water polo with them. They neglected to mention till later that they were members of an amateur Dutch water polo team!During the half hour that followed, Donna and I discovered two very important things:
- playing water polo with muscular young men can also be hugely exhausting as well as exhilarating
- a fashion bikini is not the recommended garment to wear while participating in this energetic sport
Despite having had two hefty guys helping on our side, the team Donna and I were on was well and truly thrashed! But we had enjoyed a good laugh and our bodies were grateful for that gruelling workout, especially after enduring several days of sedentary bus travel through the Peloponnese.
Shirley was fast asleep on the bottom bunk, when we returned to Kontokali Hostel rescue our laundry and change into shorts and t-shirts. We left her a note and went to share "Afternoon Tea" with two Scottish hostelers in an adjoining dormitory.
The rain, that began long before our afternoon polo game, increased steadily intensity during the evening and continued overnight.
The rain, that began long before our afternoon polo game, increased steadily intensity during the evening and continued overnight.
Kontokali Youth Hostel Cafeteria
Disappointed that our plans to explore the island had been scuttled by the weather, Donna and I headed to the Youth Hostel cafeteria to mingle with other sullenly sodden students. Shirley woke up and joined us there, but still felt too ill to mingle, and so returned to her bunk for the night at 8 pm.
There was a motley crew at the cafeteria that night. First we met Dave from Houston who was hitting on all the ladies. There was no live entertainment, just a juke box. So there was nothing to do but dance and drink, which we did till our stomachs began to growl in hunger.
As it turned out, Dave had an inspired idea! The three of us shared kalamari (squid) and yet another bottle of retsina in an outdoor restaurant that flanked the beach.
Upon our eventual return to the now over-crowded Youth Hostel cafeteria, I ordered a Coke then graciously declined Houston Dave's amorous but highly indecent proposition.
Instead I danced, and later chatted amiably with a 7'4" Dane, who happily protected me from any further indelicate suggestions from Dave.
Instead I danced, and later chatted amiably with a 7'4" Dane, who happily protected me from any further indelicate suggestions from Dave.
Oozo, karpouzi and dance
by kind courtesy of http://www.revistaair.net/Birth%2014_archivos/image008.jpg
by kind courtesy of http://www.revistaair.net/Birth%2014_archivos/image008.jpg
Later, some locals joined us and showed us all how real Greeks dance. So, of course, we all had to give it a go - with frequently hilarious results.
The noisy party wound down slowly, sputtering to a close around 3 am. Apparently, we hostelers had needed a lot of alcoholic coaxing in order to overlook the disgusting state of our sleeping quarters.
Saturday July 25
Corfu to Brindisi
Corfu to Brindisi
In my case, the coaxing worked, since I completely disregarded the state of my bed! I climbed up to the top bunk, collapsed on my mattress and slept like a log for three hours. Then I turned over and promptly fell 5 feet, landing in a heap on the floor.
My sudden descent had jarred awake everyone in that room! But their rude awakening was a blessing in disguise, since it was just after 6 am and our ferry for Brindisi would leave at 8 am.
Donna, Shirley and I packed up our belongings, and 'treated' ourselves to a breakfast of dry bread and stale coke before heading for the dock. It was as much as our beleaguered digestive systems could handle.
Donna, Shirley and I packed up our belongings, and 'treated' ourselves to a breakfast of dry bread and stale coke before heading for the dock. It was as much as our beleaguered digestive systems could handle.
Dock at Corfu
by kind courtesy of http://www.corfu-hotels.travel/data/420/unknow_general/vidos.jpg
The sun was rising as we began walking to the dock, and we arrived there in plenty of time for the ferry to Italy.
Unfortunately our ship was nowhere to be seen. It had been delayed by 3 hours. So we spend most of the morning just waiting for it to arrive.
Unfortunately our ship was nowhere to be seen. It had been delayed by 3 hours. So we spend most of the morning just waiting for it to arrive.
The weather had finally become hot and dry, and we all wanted to stay in Corfu. But Donna and I had no choice but to leave because we had pre-purchased those darn ferry tickets in Athens.
Shirley had decided to travel to Italy with us, as she felt herself too naive to negotiate Corfu without us watching out for her.
Shirley had decided to travel to Italy with us, as she felt herself too naive to negotiate Corfu without us watching out for her.
I will return to this magical island to spend
several weeks exploring its secret places,
plus another couple of weeks sunbathing
and swimming in its pristine water.
The sun will be shining then, and I will
be there with someone I adore!
So let it be written, so let it be done!
We passed a restful day en route to Brindisi and by mid afternoon Shirley's tummy bug, thankfully, seemed to have passed, so she felt more sociable. We girls then relaxed together by the pool, shared that day's meals and generally got to know a little more about Shirley and her life in Dunedin, on the South Island of New Zealand.
Brindisi
by kind courtesy of http://central.languagepod101.com/stockphoto/media/10910&v=fit512.jpg
Brindisi
by kind courtesy of http://central.languagepod101.com/stockphoto/media/10910&v=fit512.jpg
By 8 pm, Italian time, we docked at Brindisi. There we chose to eat a mediocre meal, at horribly inflated prices, close to the railway station from which we later caught the night train to Bologna.
We met an English girl, named Diane, in our compartment, and we all chatted amiably but intermittently through a pretty rough train voyage.
No couchettes had been available, so the four of us were forced to sit up for the entire 25 hour journey, dozing as and when we could. Despite using my trusty Burberry as a warm blanket, I had thus startled awake several times during the night.
Being awake while our train ploughed through the darkness of an endless Italian night was miserable. The moon was barely a sliver, so I could see nothing but shadows outside my window and, sadly, was far too tired even to read.
Instead, I kept my mind focused on the architectural and artistic glories upon which we would feast our eyes the very next day in the northern cities of Florence and Pisa.
Next Time
July 26 - 28
ITALY
Bologna
Florence
Pisa
Venice
Florence
Pisa
Venice
GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE
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