Sunday June 27 COPENHAGEN
The day dawned clear, bright and warm. By 9am, the temperature was already in the high 76 F (23C) so I chose to wear a sleeveless blue-printed cotton dress and my navy blue sling-backs. I knew I could walk in comfort all day in those medium-heeled shoes, if need be. And should I require a shade hat for my blue-black locks, I would purchase one at Tivoli.
It was important, to me, that I looked good for my very first 'date' in Denmark. Teeth brushed, hair neat, no perfume, just gold ear studs, gold and blue filigree ring, and a thin gold and blue bangle as jewelery. I carried very little in my purse: kleenex, a comb, lipstick, my EurRail pass, my doorkey for later plus a few Danish krone for refreshments, or that sunhat. I felt light, bright and happy, anticipating a day of new adventures with a new friend.
I breakfasted lightly, partly because the day's heat was already building, and partly because of the 'butterflies' in my stomach.
by kind courtesy of
Leaving Auntie Stine and Donna deliberating their Sunday schedule together, I caught the train to Copenhagen, eager to begin my day with Erik.
He was standing on the station platform when I arrived, but would not tell me his plans. He promised that my day would unfold like a flower eager for Denmark's friendly sunshine.
Who could resist such a promise?
Copenhagen is Northern Europe's cosiest capital, packed with cafes, shops and the best restaurant in Scandinavia. From the winding streets of the beautiful old town and grand royal palaces to the city's cutting-edge buildings and attractions, Copenhagen is the perfect blend of old world and new.
To start our day right, Erik treated me to a
Canal tour of Copenhagen
Canal tour of Copenhagen
by courtesy of
Departing from Nyhavn, our guided tour, conducted in both Danish and English, took us around the harbour and through the idyllic canals, past Copenhagen's beuatiful churches, castles, old listed houses, new buildings and all the other sites of interest.
It warmed my heart to know that Erik had been listening carefully when I'd confessed a love of architecture and antiquities and had then chosen this particular tour specifically for me.
After leaving the canal tour, we took a short walk to Langelinie Quay to see The Little Mermaid statue that was inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's story.
by kind courtesy of memoirofamermaid.com
We also stopped near Langelinie Quay for a cooling drink and to collect refreshments for later, then explored Copenhagen's suburban S-train network. This train sysem connects the city centre with the suburbs of Copenhagen, and trains depart every 10 to 20 minute, making it an easy and efficient choice when you need to cover distances.
Disembarking near a large shaded area, we chose an area under the comparative coolness of the tree canopy closer to the river bank. Many others had apparently had the very same idea that day since the park was filled with people.
Disembarking near a large shaded area, we chose an area under the comparative coolness of the tree canopy closer to the river bank. Many others had apparently had the very same idea that day since the park was filled with people.
Our picnic lunch was simple but filling. So we ate as we conversed, then lay back on the cool grass, watching glints of sunlight playing through the leaves, all the while still chatting.
The noon day temperature soared beyond expectations, and I found myself very grateful for Erik's sensible plan to spend a couple of hours there, quietly relaxing and talking, whilst learning more about each other's lives.
Erik was a divorced man with one small daughter who now lived in Greece. He was an engineer, who had been laid off from his job. But in 1976, in Denmark, he was still able to accrue 95% of his pay through insurance. This enabled him to maintain his home, his family, his dignity and even some of his whims. Danish labour laws must have worked well for him, because Erik was the most generous and laid-back laid-off person I'd ever met!
We were both very conscious of the preciousness of our sudden encounter. We were strangers, living several thousand miles apart. So we knew that we would probably never meet again. And, though sad, knowing that our time together was limited, upgraded the intensity, quality and content of that afternoon's conversation for both of us.
Time simultaneously stretched and shrank, as both of our minds busily quested for more knowledge. Erik and I ferretted out details about each other's lives with vigour and purpose, as if we meant to hold them as memory treasures that would provide an emotional bulwark for dark days ahead.
In those rare moments of silence between us, I felt as if I were a fisherman's wife, waiting for the fleet to return home with their night's catch. It was an unexpected and poignant 'imagining' for so simple an afternoon's chat! But I didn't have time to ponder the ramifications of why it has arisen until much, much later.
Time simultaneously stretched and shrank, as both of our minds busily quested for more knowledge. Erik and I ferretted out details about each other's lives with vigour and purpose, as if we meant to hold them as memory treasures that would provide an emotional bulwark for dark days ahead.
In those rare moments of silence between us, I felt as if I were a fisherman's wife, waiting for the fleet to return home with their night's catch. It was an unexpected and poignant 'imagining' for so simple an afternoon's chat! But I didn't have time to ponder the ramifications of why it has arisen until much, much later.
Before leaving that riverbank, we had investigated topics ranging from architecture to astronomy, zoos to zahleas, electronics to extra-terrestrials. Everything and anything was open for discussion.
We had laughed joyfully with the innocence and spontaneity of best-friend 8-year olds in a playground. I could almost see us and hear echoes of us in that long-ago scenario - but the details were faint, as if viewed and heard through a fog. The experience, itself, arrived so unexpectedly that it was disorienting and left me feeling a bit dizzy.
by kind courtesy of http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1004/1337887265_76677d0526.jpg
About 5pm, our stomachs began to growl and the mercury had mercifully dipped below 25C. So we returned to Tivoli via the S-train, where Erik treated me to a fantastic meal eaten outdoors on tables with white cloths and lit candles.
by kind courtesy of
The Danes are famous for the 'hygge' - a perfect concept for a romantic dinner, creating atmosphere by lighting some candles and making sure you are comfortable.
excerpt taken from
Erik was attentive and considerate through our relaxed and romantic supper completed with a bottle of Niersteiner. But the endless Scandinavian summer sunset soon beckoned us both to the water, and more specifically Amager Beach.You don't have to look far for great beaches in Denmark as the Danish coastline itself is a long sandy beach. However, there are some popular beaches in certain areas of Denmark that simply overshadow all others, with their superb water quality, safety and facilities.
excerpt taken from
http://goscandinavia.about.com/od/thingstodo/tp/scandinavianbeaches.htm
We strolled along Amager Strandpark, the beach right outside Copenhagen, that is easily reached and today has a view across the Oresund Sound to Sweden. When we were there, the bridge had yet to be built.
by kind courtesy of http://s3-media2.ak.yelpcdn.com/bphoto/-rM0Ms7hJIBJytcuX6llug/l.jpg
After a scorching 32C (95F) day, we treated our over-heated bodies to a leisurely swim in Amager's surprisingly cool waters.
This beach had soft white sand with tufts of grass growing out of it, in low dunes, separating swimming from walking areas. This made Amager a very private area in which to relax, especially at night. Having no swimsuit, I stripped down to my undies, while Erik un-selfconsciously ran into the water butt naked.
Having cooled down our bodies, we returned to beach to let the off-shore breezes dry us while we searched for the evening's first stars and listened to Abba singing "Fernando" on Erik's transistor radio. Bliss! Then, all too soon, the sky darkened slightly and our day ended. I was a sad moment, when Erik escorted me to the station to again catch the last train of the day back to Helsingor.
Monday June 28 JULEBEK BEACH
Another scorching Scandinavian summer's day dawned hot and clear. I breakfasted with Donna and-Auntie Stine, for the last time. Then Erik phoned, asking me to bring my backpack and meet him at Helsingør station. How intriguing! I'd thought we'd already said our goodbyes the previous evening. But Erik, apparently, had other plans for us.
So Donna and I both left, with our backpacks bound for the lockers at Helsingør station. She and Auntie Stine would stay in town, as Donna wanted to buy souvenirs there. Later that afternoon, Donna and I were scheduled to leave Denmark for Paris by the overnight train.
Erik greeted Auntie Stine and Donna politely, and assured them both that he'd get me to the Paris train on time. Then whisked me away to another train for a short journey to Julebek Beach, about 4km west of Helsingør.
In 1976, the local train dropped you off near a small beech tree forest, that separted the beach from the tracks. One had to hike about 200 yards to the beach itself. The area has since grown, and the forest has, no doubt, matured. But Julebek remains a pretty, sandy beach that faces north-east, across Oresund towards Sweden.
Despite Erik's stellar human companionship, the sand flies and biting mosquitoes shortened the length of time we had intended to stay at this beach. Those insects had flustered us so much, that we accidentally caught the train going in the opposite direction from Helsingør. By the time we discovered and rectified our mistake, we both knew I would not be on time for my connection to Copenhagen for the Paris train.
Before returning to Helsingør, I phoned Auntie Stine's home to apologize for worrying her and also to let Donna know about my change of plans. Donna was most unwilling to do so, but I urged her to catch the Paris train without me, that very evening. I promised to meet her at Paris Nord station, 24-hours after she, herself would arrive there. Surely she could manage one single day without me!?
Somehow, the Norse gods had
arranged that Erik and I should
enjoy one final glorious evening together
I was not about to refuse their gift.
Erik then spoke to Auntie Stine in Danish, convincing her that - next evening - he would make sure I made the Paris train. By the look on his face, I am certain Auntie Stine had some strong words for him!
Temporarily released from all our obligations, Erik and I retrieved my backpack, then headed inland to Hillerød where we booked into two rooms in a bed and breakfast on the edge of town. By then it was late afternoon, but not yet time for supper.
Erik led me to the lake, where we enjoyed a magical boat ride, in a swan-shaped boat, to see the exterior of Fredericksborg Castle. Built as a royal residence for King Christian IV, this castle is now a museum of national history. The current edifice replaced a previous castle erected by Frederick II and is the largest Renaissance palace in Scandinavia. The palace is located on three small islands in the middle of Palace Lake (Slotsøen) and is adjoined by a large formal garden in the Baroque style.
above excerpt from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederiksborg_Palace
by kind courtesy of
http://grandcanyon.free.fr/images/chateau/original/Frederiksborg%20Castle,%20Hillerod,%20Denmark.jpg
After the romantic boat ride, Erik and I strolled arm in arm, in the direction of our B&B, enjoying a delightful supper in a secluded bistro along the way.
Upon arriving at the B&B, we entered the garden, where we chatted till just before midnight. Then, hungry again, we walked a few blocks to find a a local inn where we gorged on midnight smor brod and beer.
Tuesday June 29 HILLERøD After breakfast, we vacated our lodgings then Erik escorted me around Fredericksborg Castle with the finesse of a tour guide.
He presented each grand room, as if it were his very own, giving me a potted history of its main events and characters. Even though English was a foreign language to him, Erik's words and explanations made our 'private' tour come alive for me. But the highlight of the visit happened when Erik asked me to close my eyes, then led me to the entrance of the grand room, where I re-opened them.
by kind courtesy of http://www.tumblr.com/tagged/frederiksborg?language=fr_FR
Before me was an enormous room, with groined vaulting, carved chests and cabinets. The Knight's Hall was a grand hall decorated by large portraits of Christian IX and other Danish kings, and lit by tall windows. It had originally been designed as a Ballroom, above the castle church. But to my eye, it still looked more like a ballroom.
excerpt taken from http://www.planetware.com/hillerod/frederiksborg-castle-dk-z-hilf.htm
by kind courtesy of http://24.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_lzit2du3dr1qiz8nio1_500.jpg
Then, unexpectedly, he hummed a Mozart melody as we floated together - quite alone - over those intricately inlaid floor. His eyes never left mine for a moment, and I knew that we were each creating a memory here that would last us a lifetime (Mine certainly has!)
Too soon, we had to make our way back to Copenhagen, via Helsingor. Though I was in good time for the Paris train, there were no more couchettes available for rent. I did not relish having to endure the 19-hour ride sitting upright for the entire journey. But at least I had a seat!
Erik insisted on accompanying me onto the train and finding me an empty compartment. Not wanting me to wait there alone, he made sure my back pack was safely stowed, but only after I'd relieved it of my towel, bath bag and essential overnight gear. Then we sat holding hands together, in comfortable silence, looking out at the skyline of Copenhagen till the guards announced the train's imminent departure.
He stood on the station platform, waving goodbye for the entire time it took my train to completely navigate the long, slow 90-degree bend out of Copenhagen station. It was such a sweet gesture that I finally broke down sobbing, knowing that Erik had been my own courtly knight who had gone to amazing lengths to give me the most romantic and interesting weekend of my life.
Tusind tak for en fantastisk weekend, Erik.
Jeg vil aldrig glemme dig!
NEXT WEEK!
June 30 - July 1
FRANCE
FRANCE
Train journey to Paris
Donna's Meltdown
Luxembourg Gardens Pension
Bus Tour
Bus Tour
Paris by night
Bateau Mouche
Midnight dining
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