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Friday, May 3, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: June 25-26 Denmark: Helsingør and Copenhagen




Bruised and a weary but alive, we arrived in Copenhagen, where we changed from the International train to a Danish train.  We had been invited to spend the weekend with an elderly female relative of mine in Helsingør, which is situated on the north east coast of the island of Zealand in eastern Denmark 
Donna and I eventually arrived at "Auntie" Stine's home around noon. She lived close enough to town to be near shops, yet far enough away from it to escape uninvited tourists. Auntie had prepared a tasty Danish brunch of open-faced sandwiches for us, from dark rye bread, unsalted butter, pickled herring, cold cuts and her own home grown vegetables and herbs.  After so much eating on the run, and picnicking in trains, it felt really good to sit still at a table to eat and eat a real meal.

And what a delicious spread it was too!
After lunch, Donna summoned what was left of her energy to take a trip back to Copenhagen in order to research her family genealogy in Copenhagen.

I stayed behind, to chat with Auntie Stine and help clean up the dishes after lunch. Then I took a long relaxing hot shower, tidied up my backpack and strolled around my Auntie's pretty flower garden, while she tried to teach me the Danish names of some very familiar blooms. It was a special shared time with a genteel lady, in her peaceful and serene garden that totally soothed my soul. 

Slowly but surely, Auntie Stine led us both toward her cosy garden summerhouse, where, over cups of hot tea, we shared a long chat about our family members, who had moved to England.  But by 4pm, my mind and body, having endured too many sleepless nights, now demanded immediate sleep.

Though I tried desperately to stifled my yawns, Auntie noticed and instantly cleared away our cups and saucers, while insisting that I stay there and nap. Lying down in her pretty summerhouse in its garden setting, with the delightful scent of pansies, and with birdsong wafting through the open windows, made it easy for me to sleep like a baby.

by kind courtesy of  www.naturesrights.com
Donna had not yet returned to Helsingør by the time Auntie Stine and I ate supper together at 6pm.  So, after the dishes were done, I left for Copenhagen excited to experience the magic and promise of Tivoli on my own.
by kind courtesy of 
Tivoli Gardens is more than a Danish amusement park. It is equally as popular as a place to go dining and people-watching.  In the seventies, several different types of public dance venues were also offered as specific sites around Tivoli

by kind courtesy of 
This 21-acre park is beautifully landscaped with fountains and flower beds containing half a million colourful flowers.  At night, thousands of custom-designed lights illuminate the park, giving it the holiday feel of a European Disneyland.
It was a balmy, warm Friday night in summer, in Copenhagen, and I was young, single and female. So, it was inevitible that someone would speak to me! All I had to do was wait.

He stood next to me when I stopped to watch two swans swimming on a man-made pond, with their babies.  And for a little while, he watched them with me. Then (in English), he asked me what baby swans were called in English. Initially, mesmerized by the magical surroundings, and Erik's Scandinavian good looks, I temporarily forgot that the offspring of swans are cygnets.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.dannygreenphotography.com/media/Iceland%20Gallery/Whooper%20Swan%20and%20Cygnets.jpg
Amused by my flustered state, Erik pressed his advantage, and asked if he could take me dancing. Having slept well that afternoon, my train travel aches and pains now a distant memory. I happily agreed.  He took me to a discotheque inside Tivoli, where we enjoyed an evening of loud music, shouted conversations, furious dancing and cold drinks.

After making an official date to meet Donna and me inside Tivoli for drinks the following evening, Erik gallantly escorted me to the Helsingør train. An hour later, I caught a taxi to Auntie Stine's home, arriving quietly at 1.15am.  Donna had returned earlier and so was fast asleep by the time I returned.  Sleep came easily that night. It seems my body had needed the exercise of Disco dancing!

Saturday June 26 KRONBORG CASTLE and COPENHAGEN
In the morning, I washed some clothes and left them to dry while we breakfasted at Auntie Stine's kitchen table.  Afterwards, she announced that she had arranged to take the two of us, plus a picnic lunch, to visit her local tourist trap:

Kronborg Castle 
Known all over the world as Elsinor Castle, this Helsingør castle, is the setting for William Shakespeare's tragedy HAMLET, one of the most famous and frequently performed stage plays in the world.
Kronborg Castle was named after King Frederik II in 1577, but its history goes right back to the 1420s, when Erik of Pomerania built the strongly fortified castle known as "Krogen" ("The Hook"). From here the king's men controlled the shipping in the Sound and collected the unpopular Sound Dues.
above excerpt taken from http://www.kronborgcastle.com/en/KronborgsHistorie.aspx

It was a long visit, involving a lot of walking after which Auntie Stine, Donna and I strolled outside for a picnic lunch on Kronberg Castle's eastern beach. We came upon a large grassy area, where most people had gathered. Beyond, a narrow strip of beach bordered the shallow sea.

Whilst there, we were amused - and a little shocked - to witness full-on Kronberg Castle sex anticsBy the water, in broad daylight, an amorous young man and his more than eager young lady were so engrossed in each other that they seemed quite oblivious to the fact that young families were also present, at the beach with them. To their credit, the adult Danes simply ignored the couple.  Only the youngest children and I stared at them in complete and utter disbelief!  That's just not something you see every day on beaches in Canada!

Lunch was light, nutritious and delicious, as is usual with Scandinavian fare, and Auntie Stine certainly did us proud!  Somehow, sea air always seems to ramp up one's appetite.  But it also makes one very sleepy. So, we were all ready for a long nap by the time we returned to Auntie's home that afternoon.
by kind courtesy of 
Donna and I awoke around 5pm, eager for an evening out on the town.  We had intended to eat at Tivoli. But, knowing the prices there would be well beyond our budget, Auntie Stine insisted that we eat a light supper with her, before leaving for the station and our train to Copenhagen. 

Upon arrival in the big city, Donna accompanied me to Tivoli and then stuck by my side like glue - for the entire evening.  I had hoped that she would be brave enough to risk striding out on her own, after having visited Copenhagen by herself the previous day.  But Donna had grown up in a small village and was not as used to large cities as I was. She thus needed the reassurance of my company.

Erik met us both at the pre-arranged outdoor Tivoli drinking place, that served cold pitchers of beer along with individual glasses of wine. He had erroneously concluded that Donna was my 'chaperone Auntie', with whom we were staying, and about whom I'd told him the previous night.  He thus graciously provided us both with wine for the entire evening.
Unfortunately, the free-flowing wine only seemed to amplify Donna's discomfort, as all she had to offer, by way of polite conversation, were her many complaints about travelling with me.

Listening to her comments, I concluded that Donna must have been overwhelmed by the insane pace of our Scandinavian tour.  I did, however, feel sad that she seemed unable to relax and enjoy herself in this amazing place designed for light-hearted fun.

We had a further 7 weeks of high-paced travel to enjoy (or endure!) together, and I was quickly becoming apprehensive about how our busy European adventure would unfold.
by kind courtesy of 
thisbrowngirl.wordpress.com/2010/07/emerson-quote.jpg?w=560
Most of all, I was perplexed by Donna's insensitivity towards Erik. He had been guilty only of behaving like a real gentleman as he quietly, and generously, footed the bill for our many, many drinks. The wine, however, had revealed a side of Donna I'd not known about, when we had only ever been colleagues.

But my main focus that evening was Erik and what he must have endured. Though his manners were always impeccable, he looked understandably confused by Donna's open irritability towards him.

So, when my travel companion eventually summoned the courage to visit the washroom alone, I took the opportunity to reassure Erik.

I explained that Donna was neither my 'aunt' nor my 'chaperone', but only my travelling companion. Erik's countenance visibly brightened and he immediately moved a little closer to me, sweetly begging me to join him on a solo date, beginning early the following morning.  Of course I agreed!

Donna would have to fend for herself! And I would not miss her at all.  Nonetheless, I found myself hoping she would spend some time relaxing her body, mind and spirit, in Auntie Stine's garden fragrant summerhouse, that I had so thoroughly enjoyed the previous afternoon.  It had been a healing and beautiful place in which to spend a few delicious hours.

Erik dearly wanted to show me around his beloved Copenhagen and I was delighted to go.  To be shown around a European city by someone who truly loves living there, is a rare treat, And I suspected that the warm summer weather plus Erik's congenial company would create the kind of magic that might, perhaps, extend beyond one single day.

That special day was going to be filled with charm and magic for both of us. Despite Donna's sour mood, I smiled quietly within myself during our return train journey to Auntie Stine's home.
  NEXT WEEK!
DENMARK June 27-29
WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

JULEBEK BEACH

FREDERICKSBORG 
CASTLE in HILLEROD

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE June 27-29 DENMARK

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