The Alhambra
Everyone was wide awake and out of their tents at the crack of dawn today!
Camping gear as well as breakfast was efficiently dispatched since we were all eager to visit the eighth wonder of the world and crown jewel of Granada, The Alhambra.
After the previous day's solo tour of Toledo, I was beyond delighted to be escorted through the Alhambra by Anton.
He was an architect. Who better to explain Alhambra's complex and fascinating craftsmanship?
Alhambra was not listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site until 1986. So in the early 70s, there were no regular 'guided tours' available, and each visitor was free to find their own way around the enormous complex.
Seeing the Alhambra, up close and personal, was one of the main reasons that Anton had booked this particular trip. And his knowledge of the palaces and grounds was to prove more extensive than I could ever have imagined! Given his genuine passion for Muslim excellence in Alhambra's art and architecture, I was both humbled and privileged to be his student that day.
Camping gear as well as breakfast was efficiently dispatched since we were all eager to visit the eighth wonder of the world and crown jewel of Granada, The Alhambra.
After the previous day's solo tour of Toledo, I was beyond delighted to be escorted through the Alhambra by Anton.
He was an architect. Who better to explain Alhambra's complex and fascinating craftsmanship?
Alhambra was not listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site until 1986. So in the early 70s, there were no regular 'guided tours' available, and each visitor was free to find their own way around the enormous complex.
Seeing the Alhambra, up close and personal, was one of the main reasons that Anton had booked this particular trip. And his knowledge of the palaces and grounds was to prove more extensive than I could ever have imagined! Given his genuine passion for Muslim excellence in Alhambra's art and architecture, I was both humbled and privileged to be his student that day.
And what a day it was!
I did not yet know that Alhambra has a timeless beauty whose magical creations transcend our mundane world. She will dance with your Spirit and set your Soul ablaze!
To feel a little of the allure of The Alhambra for yourself, press the link below.
The Alhambra - Spain - UNESCO World Heritage Site YouTube
Photo by kind courtesy of
http://www.andalucia.com/image/cities/mvc03010-0032alhambrasunset.jpg
In Spain, The Alhambra represents the pinnacle of excellence in Muslim architectural craftsmanship.
Originally built as a fortress, the Alhambra commands a sweeping view of Granada city. Named by the Arabs, Alhambra means the 'the red one' because of the colour of its walls at sunset.
Short History
The Alhambra is a palace city defended by a network of walls and
towers built on high hills in a commanding location to the east of the
city, with unsurpassed 360 degree views.
The first Nasrid king, El Ahmar, moved his court to this prestigious
and well fortified location in 1238. Successive rulers then altered the palaces
according to their own style. Today's Alhambra is almost entirely the work of
one king, Mohammed V
Alhambra Overview
In the Hispano-Muslim houses, the courtyard is the core of family
life, around which all the other rooms are distributed. The wealth of a family
is viewed not in the exterior of a dwelling but in its courtyard.
In Alhambra, the Palaces have the same layout and function as houses, only they are larger and much more richly decorated.
The Royal Palace (see map) is actually three palaces - the Mexuar (1), Comares
Palace (2) and the Lion's Palace (5). The Comares Palace houses the Hall of the
Ambassador and has become synonymous with it. Each palace is built around a
central courtyard containing a fountain or pool.
In Alhambra, the Palaces have the same layout and function as houses, only they are larger and much more richly decorated.
Photo
by kind courtesy of: http://www.alhambradegranada.org
The Royal Palace (see map) is actually three palaces - the Mexuar (1), Comares
Palace (2) and the Lion's Palace (5). The Comares Palace houses the Hall of the
Ambassador and has become synonymous with it. Each palace is built around a
central courtyard containing a fountain or pool.
CGI shows history and placement of main palaces in The Alhambra. (Graphics, Spanish narration and music)
1. Mexuar Palace
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
The Mexuar for meetings of the Counsel of Ministers and the
Oratory for worship. Its name is derived from the Arabic word Maswar, the place
where the Surah or Counsel of Ministers met. It was also the place or hall
where the Sultan dispensed justice.
2. Hall
of the Ambassadors
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
At
forty-five meters, the tower of the Palace of Comares is the tallest
construct in Alhambra.
Traditionally designed, like other Spanish-Moorish houses with a central open air courtyard, it is flanked by many rooms consisting of a ground floor and at least one upper floor or loft.
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
At
forty-five meters, the tower of the Palace of Comares is the tallest
construct in Alhambra. Traditionally designed, like other Spanish-Moorish houses with a central open air courtyard, it is flanked by many rooms consisting of a ground floor and at least one upper floor or loft.
Altogether nine small rooms surround the Court of the Myrtles and
the Hall of the Ambassadors, the sultan's official residence, was the most
important hall in the Palace. Tall and imposing, its lighting is subdued to
ensure a respectful quietness during royal audiences and court
ceremonies.
3. Royal
baths
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
These baths show an intimate and sensitive use of light, shape and
colour. Singers and musicians would entertain the bathers from the galleries
above.
4. Hall of
the Two Sisters
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/index.php/The-Hall-of-the-Two-Sister/160+M5d637b1e38d/0/
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/index.php/The-Hall-of-the-Two-Sister/160+M5d637b1e38d/0/
With its cupola of sculpted mocarabes (press here for more information) and rich stucco motifs on
the walls, this hall was in the centre of a series of chambers where the
sultana and her family lived and is the most sumptuous and monumental room in
the palace.
Its name comes from the two identical white marble slabs in the floor. It has a small fountain with a jet and a little channel that carries the water to the Patio of the Lions
Its name comes from the two identical white marble slabs in the floor. It has a small fountain with a jet and a little channel that carries the water to the Patio of the Lions
5. Lions Palace and Court
information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
On a small scale, the Fountain of the Lions
represents the entire technical concept behind the creation of the Alhambra, a
structural conception rooted in human and constructive experiences developed
creatively over many centuries
photo by kind courtesy of smh.com.au
The Palace of the Lions was the architectural pinnacle of the
Alhambra and the most beautiful part of the Nasrid. Its celebrated marble
fountain, guarded by twelve stone lions, is a symbol of its decorative
richness and an example of the complex water system.
The poem inscribed
on the fountain tells how much fiercer the lions would look if they weren't so
restrained by their respect for the sultan.
photo by kind courtesy of smh.com.au
The Palace of the Lions was the architectural pinnacle of the
Alhambra and the most beautiful part of the Nasrid. Its celebrated marble
fountain, guarded by twelve stone lions, is a symbol of its decorative
richness and an example of the complex water system.
photo by kind courtesy of arxxiduc.wordpress.com
6. Hall of
the Abencerrages
photo and information by kind courtesy of: http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/index.php/The-Hall-of-the-Abencerrages/163+M5d637b1e38d/0/
photo and information by kind courtesy of: http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/index.php/The-Hall-of-the-Abencerrages/163+M5d637b1e38d/0/
The
hall was built by order of Mohammed V. It is square, and has interlacing ceilings
and bedchambers connected with the Emperor's Chambers and, through a balcony,
with the Partal Gardens.
Of the two residential areas surrounding the Court of the Lions, the rooms located at the south end of the Court developed around the Hall of the Abencerrages.
The name itself was derived its name from a legend of the 16th century, according to which the members of this North-African family were invited to a banquet and then massacred in this hall.
Of the two residential areas surrounding the Court of the Lions, the rooms located at the south end of the Court developed around the Hall of the Abencerrages.
The name itself was derived its name from a legend of the 16th century, according to which the members of this North-African family were invited to a banquet and then massacred in this hall.
7. Partal
Gardens
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
The Partal Gardens are relatively recent, having been planted
on the site of the sumptuous palace of the Count of Tendilla, first Catholic
General of Granada.Pomegranate trees whose fruit, the granada, is symbol of the city, shade the paths. To the north, with fine views of the Rio Darro and Sacromonte, is the richly decorated Ladies' Tower.
8. Charles V Palace
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
The
palace has two floors (not counting mezzanine floors). On the exterior, the
lower is of a padded Tuscon order, while the upper is of the Ionic order,
alternating pilasters and pedimented windows. Both main façades boast portals
made of stone from the Sierra Elvira. 
9. Court of
the Myrtles
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambradegranada.org/en/info/placesandspots/courtofthemyrtles.asp
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambradegranada.org/en/info/placesandspots/courtofthemyrtles.asp
This
is one end of the largest patio inside the Nasrid Palace.The
Court of the Myrtles takes its name from the dense myrtle hedges that line their central waterway.
The Pool plays an important part in the architectural
and aesthetic definition of the site, with its surface of water that acts as a
mirror and reflects the surrounding structures, generating a geometrical
projection that breaks the structural horizontal lines of the
place.
The Court was paved with sizable white marble slabs, although at the end of the 16th century the floor was enlarged.
The Court was paved with sizable white marble slabs, although at the end of the 16th century the floor was enlarged.
10. Gardens
of Daraxa
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org
A garden within the palace! The
Daraxa garden, remodelled in the 16th century, is the best example of a closed
garden, a place of charms and delights.
An irregular trapeze, strong and sober in style, this garden
features a big and beautiful Renaissance fountain. Six narrow beds of dense
boxwood hedges line the walkways of this garden.
Cypress, Acacia and orange trees surround the central marble
fountain which is decorated on the edges with a poem, like the fountain of the Lion’s court.
On the south side of the courtyard there is a room whose vault creates unique acoustic quality. Named “the Secrets Room” because if two people stand on opposite corners of this room and one of them whispers in the direction of the corner, one person will clearly hear what the other person says.
On the south side of the courtyard there is a room whose vault creates unique acoustic quality. Named “the Secrets Room” because if two people stand on opposite corners of this room and one of them whispers in the direction of the corner, one person will clearly hear what the other person says.
It's true, one can hear what is said
clearly enough to make one blush!
Experience magnificent Alhambra craftsmanship in this 10-minute (English narration) YouTube
Our drivers had given us a full six hours to enjoy ourselves in Alhambra and Granada, and it had already taken us over four hours to experience and appreciate the varied and intricate architectural details that brought each structure to life.
We had missed lunch, because our eyes were so filled with beauty that we had felt no hunger! On the walls, floors and ceilings, through the columns and arches to the mountain and city vistas, the Alhambra was -and is- a gorgeous, textural symphonic poem that speaks directly to the heart.
To his technical explanations of the fortress and palace architecture, Anton also added relevant historical vignettes for several of the rooms. His theatrical delivery made the sights, scents and sounds of this fortress' extensive past come alive for me, searing the memory of Alhambra forever in my brain and, most especially, in my heart.
Long before we entered the beautiful gardens of the Generalife, I had become enraptured by the Alhambra.
And Anton knew it!
So when he paused by the pink roses
to kiss me, I kissed him back.
Needing to regain my equilibrium, I quickly suggested that Anton leave me to meditate in the fragrant Daxara gardens while he photographed some specific features of architecture that had earlier fascinated him.
He found me there an hour later, refreshed and glowing from a meditation that had transcended even Alhambra's magnificent structures, permitting me to glimpse the joy of heaven itself.
We strolled back to the bus, arm in arm, and were the last to arrive, to the good-natured ribbing of our fellow travellers. Though neither of us said a word, my blushing face must have spoken volumes.
Granada to Estepona (120 miles)
Two hours later, we reached that night's campsite, near the town of Estepona, on the Mediterranean coast directly across the sea from Morocco. And what a delightful place it was. We stayed on the beach of a recently renovated private hotel, run by a friend of the Tour Company owner's cousin.
Two hours later, we reached that night's campsite, near the town of Estepona, on the Mediterranean coast directly across the sea from Morocco. And what a delightful place it was. We stayed on the beach of a recently renovated private hotel, run by a friend of the Tour Company owner's cousin.
photo by kind courtesy of hottp://sisonline.axspace.com
After an entire day of walking, learning and meditating in the open air, sans lunch, my body badly needed replenishment. And this tasty, local dish perfectly fit the bill for everyone else too.
Our gracious hosts visited our table during supper, informing us that their hotel was due to open that weekend but was currently closed. We were, however, more than welcome to use the staff quarters for our meals, and bathroom needs.
We were also permitted to camp overnight on the hotel's private beach, as long as we vacated before the beach cleaner swept us away at dawn, tents and all. And dawn was expected shortly before 8am.
Anton wanted to erect our tent away from the others, as near to the east end of the beach site as possible. He was, he said, keen to photograph an unobstructed view of the rising sun over the Mediterranean Sea.
We were also permitted to camp overnight on the hotel's private beach, as long as we vacated before the beach cleaner swept us away at dawn, tents and all. And dawn was expected shortly before 8am.
Anton wanted to erect our tent away from the others, as near to the east end of the beach site as possible. He was, he said, keen to photograph an unobstructed view of the rising sun over the Mediterranean Sea.
As he intended to be as comfortable as possible whilst awaiting that 'golden moment', he turned our sleeping bags around, placing our heads, instead our feet, closest to the tent flap. I was, admittedly, curious about these changes, but too tired to question Anton further.
Tomorrow we would arrive in Morocco!
And step foot on the continent of Africa...
I had lazily begun to muse about how very differently today would have turned out, had I remained in London and not taken this trip! But the sand beneath my sleeping bag was too soft and yielding for me to resist its comfort and I fell asleep before complet...
Coming Soon!
Section 3 - Chapter 6
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