Chapter 9 - Days 10-11:Fes (Days 2-3)

Chapter 9 - Day 10   Fes (Day 2)

After several days of travelling bumpy roads in a vehicle with questionable suspension, plus the vileness of yesterday’s tannery incident, I chose to revel in the fluid freedom of the swimming pool. 

A few laps later, my muscles relaxed, letting go of the stress of that misadventure, allowing my body to feel more lithe, relaxed and alive.

photo by kind courtesy of www.msccruises.com

Anton sat in the shade; book in one hand, cola in the other, frowning as his eyes watched me, though his mind seemed lost in thought. 

When I climbed out of the pool and sat with Anton, sharing his cola, I hoped he would talk about his worries. But our conversation that morning focused only on frivolities, like shopping.

Being physically active in water had helped drain the shock out of my system, so I welcomed conversation - even about shopping.

By lunchtime, I was outwardly my cheerful, trusting self again.  Inwardly, however, I wondered if somehow I had put myself at risk and my mind was asking serious questions: 

With my darker complexion, had my wearing a djellaba drawn negative attention from my assailants? 

Were Arab sensibilities outraged by seeing me - a supposed Moroccan woman - flirting openly with a white male.

Had my ignorance of local customs caused what might have escalated into an embarrassing international incident?

Or had I simply been alone, in the wrong place at the wrong time?

While nothing excused the crass treatment to which I had been subjected, genuine misinterpretation might explain the shocked surprise I saw on my assailant's faces, when I had screamed at them in plain

 Anglo - Saxon ENGLISH!  

When travelling in exotic land,

 so many things we must  

seek to UNDERSTAND!

Happily, lunchtime aromas interrupted my brooding inner thoughts.  And, with a smile, I realized how  truly wonderful it was, being in this place, with all these people, at this moment in time. 

Our drivers knew their 'security curfews' cost us all valuable exploration time, and had thus put extra effort into procuring for us healthy, tasty lunchtime meals. 

photo by kind courtesy of: http://blog.travel-exploration.com/category/fes-unesco-world-heritage-site

It seemed, to me, that they were spending all their free time in Morocco, guarding our van and belongings or collecting delicious locally made  food on our behalves.

The previous night, they had even stayed in camp, forgoing their own suppers to make sure our ailing nurses were properly hydrated.  These men were beyond amazing.  Bless them both!

After lunch, I was - surprisingly - eager to return to the Medina, with Anton. Those thugs had stolen my camera, but I was determined they would not also steal my joie de vivre!

Having joined this overland trek at the very last moment, I had not brought any travellers' cheques with me.  Nor did I have anything left to sell, after bartering my watch for the group's belated lunch in Tangier. With no credit card to my name, I thus had no money with which to purchase goods.

To remedy this untenable situation, I combined some personal knowledge of Anton with brazen ingenuity to hatch yet another cunning plan!  
I would offer my services as his 'personal shopper'!

photo by kind courtesy of apetcher.wordpress.com

From our Love Bus conversations, I knew that Anton loathed the very idea of bargaining for goods. He would prefer simply to pay whatever inflated price the vendor asked for his purchases.

But today he had a secret weapon - me!  Haggling was in my blood!  So I suggested an idea that would benefit us both. 

With his permission, I would bargain for every item on each of our shopping lists. Then Anton would use his credit card to pay the final, greatly-reduced price for all our purchases!

He would thus save, substantially, on the goods I acquired on his behalf. And I would spend a portion of those savings, on a few souvenirs of my own. 

  

It was a symbiotic arrangement.  And, as even watching me haggle was a lot of fun, both of us greatly enjoyed that afternoon together.

photo by kind courtesy of askives.com

On Anton's behalf, I negotiated a fabulous price on some amazing Moroccan tiles and ceramics, and small rugs, often for a fraction of their original asking price. 

He then selected heavier, more expensive items, such as artwork, lamps and larger rugs, which he arranged to have shipped directly to his London home.  

 photo by kind courtesy of beyondmarrakech.com

photo by kind courtesy of telegraph.co.uk

For myself, I acquired a small rug, a jewel-toned woven blanket, a short tunic caftan and some unique trinkets.

photo by kind courtesy of lyst.com

We celebrated our success by sampling many different food and drink offerings, in the Souk!

Having made no specific plans for after supper, I spent the evening quietly writing in my journal. I also wrote postcards, for mailing back to England the next day, including one cheeky one to my boss in London.

I did wonder if the Moroccan postal system was any swifter than British Mail.  If not, then I'd probably arrive in England long before my boss received and read her postcard.  That is -  if I still had a job!

Swimming and sunshine helped to heal my physical bruises. And a successful afternoon of bargaining in the souk was just what I'd needed to boost my self confidence.

With the resilience of youth, I had rebounded from 

the unwarranted violence of the previous day. 

Meditating before an early bedtime, I thanked my angels for their ever-present help in so speedily healing my agitated spirit. And then I slept soundly, looking forward to another day in this ancient and wonderful city of Fes.

Chapter 9 - Day 11   Fes (Day 3)

The dry winds of the middle Atlas mountains warmed up our campsite quickly after dawn, and by the time we'd finished breakfast, the temperature had risen to a dry and comfortable 80F

I chose to repeat the previous day's exercise pattern of swimming before lunchtime, rather than risking the same fate as our nurses by swimming and sunbathing in the hotter afternoon sun.

Assured that I would be safe without his hovering over me, Anton and his camera went in search of more Moroccan architecture. 

photo by kind courtesy of 
http://www.voyagesphotosmanu.com/fountain_of_fes.html

His aim was to learn about and photograph Zelig, the ornate tile-work seen on public fountains that were everywhere in Fes.

photo by kind courtesy ofgoafrica.about.com

Having had my camera stolen by the tannery thugs, Anton promised to later share with me whatever photographs he took.  
 photo by kind courtesy of 123rf.com

 

But I would have to wait a long time for those pictures.

At our campsite luncheon, the nurses - having heard about my haggling skills - asked me to bargain on their behalves during an afternoon shopping trip through the Medina.  

We agreed on terms, and three of our group's men quickly volunteered to join us, as bodyguards.  Anton had disappeared right after our group meal, and so, was not one of our band of merry shoppers,

photo by kind courtesy of casbahdecor.com 

The ladies were looking for small or lightweight ceramic, textile and brass items that could be easily carried back to England in their packs.

It was such fun experiencing the souk with the ladies, as we sampled foods, and refreshing drinks along the way.  

We frequently strayed from our main objective, since we simply had to examine every pretty bauble or exotic aroma that caught our attention that day.

Wandering through this ever-changing and fascinating marketplace, seemed the most natural way to soak up the atmosphere and culture of Fes.  And, with our bodyguards keeping an eye on us, we girls had a giggling good time.

But when we eventually did remember to shop, the bargaining arrangement and rules remained the same, so the ladies, and I, enjoyed some very rewarding experiences that afternoon!

Even though we had grazed our way through half the food stalls in the souk before returning to camp, I was once again ravenous! 

Anton had returned to camp earlier than we had, and enjoyed a quick swim and a quiet read, until we arrived to show off our spoils.  

Afterwards, he pulled me to one side, whispering that I should not plan to eat supper with the group tonight, since he had arranged a special evening for us both.  He also asked me to wear heels and modern gear for our dinner date. 

A dinner date?!  I was very surprised, but also delighted!  It seems that Anton  had sought out more than just fountains that morning. So, of course, I agreed to accompany him to supper in one of Fes' premier restaurants.

photo by kind courtesy of mymotels.com

Our restaurant was framed by lush olive groves and the ancient ruins of the Medina walls.  Inside, its sumptuous tiled walls and satin and velvet furnishings created an exquisitely romantic mood.  It was the ideal place to experience the tranquility and sensuality of exotic Morocco.

For more about fine dining in Fes  press here

Today Fes boasts an international tourist base for whom cordon bleu chefs  create Mediterranean menus with a Moroccan slant, including some interesting seafood dishes such as swordfish with pomegranates.

But in 1972, our choices were far simpler.

photo by kind courtesy of www.solidrecipe.com

Anton and I walked through to a table for two, in view of the fountain, on the terrace. Once seated, he ordered us a traditional dish, lamb tagine, and a bottle or two of red wine.

by kind courtesy of http://allrecipes.com/recipe/lamb-tagine

A tajin, or tagine, is a Berber dish from North Africa, that is named after the special earthenware pot in which it is cooked. 

press here for a Tagine recipe

My palate loved how all the different spices melded together to give this dish its distinctive flavour.  And eating outside in the cool of the evening, in this uncrowded courtyard, surrounded by palm trees and a beautiful fountain, was a very special added bonus

photo by kind courtesy of http://www.saffronmarigold.com

We lingered for a long time on that terrace, holding hands, gazing deeply into each other's eyes, sipping our wine. 

It seemed so very natural to be there with this amazing man who had come to mean so much more to me, than just a fortuitous bodyguard.

Anton was sweet and attentive, and his stories filled with such humour and passion I could have sat there all night, just listening to him talk. At times, I sensed he wanted to say more but was somehow afraid to spoil the moment.

The air sizzled with expectancy. Our courtyard dinner for two, in this exotic restaurant, was so seductive that we were both in danger of surrendering to it.

I knew, in the way that women do,  that Anton wanted to kiss me. But with the tannery crisis still painfully fresh in my mind, was grateful that he resisted the urge.  My emotions were still all over the map. And I did not want to risk having negative feelings from that incident impact on our pleasure.
 

A lot of strange and wonderful things had happened to 'bond' the pair of us,  yet a mere twelve days earlier,  Anton and I had been strangers. And beyond what we had shared whilst travelling, we knew nothing about each other personal lives or personalities.

My mind understood that, despite our mutually compelling and enchanting attraction, our current feelings were largely the result of circumstance and opportunity.

Though sorely tempted to act upon those feelings, we talked it over and eventually made a rational decision to remain 'just friends' till the trip was over.  At least I did.  

Kissing, holding hands and the occasional friendly hug would have to suffice, whether or not our hormones objected to the unnatural restraint!  

Anton behaved like a real gentleman and immediately respected my decision, agreeing that we might become lovers later, when - or if - we both felt that was right for who we were in our everyday lives, back in England.

It was oddly refreshing and liberating to talk 

so openly with Anton about our feelings.

Choosing not to move our liaison beyond friendship actually permitted us both to enjoy the rest of our trip without the complication of a sexual dalliance.

Who knew that postponing passion would so 
heighten our awareness of the sights, sounds 
and aromas of life in the here and now?

We finished our wine, then hand in hand, strolled back to the security of our campsite.  The huge gates were locked behind us, as we were the last campers to arrive.

Most campers were already sleeping.  So we each washed up and changed into our night attire before, once again, sharing the same tent, in separate sleeping bags, as frustrated but loving friends.

Today had been a good day - busy and varied yet also very rewarding - in countless ways!  Too tired to journal or meditate, I fell asleep next to Anton, still holding his hand, smiling into the darkness.

Tomorrow, our last day in Fes,
would end with a visit to

the Chief of Police!

Coming Soon! 

Section 3 - Chapter 10

Fes  (Day 4)

Self-awareness in Sensual Surroundings

My Road to Morocco - My Road to Morocco - Day 12

Chapter 5 - Day 6: Granada to Estepona (125 miles)

The Alhambra

Everyone was wide awake and out of their tents at the crack of dawn today! 

Camping gear as well as breakfast was efficiently dispatched since we were all eager to visit the eighth wonder of the world and crown jewel of Granada, The Alhambra.

After the previous day's solo tour of Toledo, I was beyond delighted to be escorted through the Alhambra by Anton.

He was an architect. Who better to explain Alhambra's complex and fascinating craftsmanship?

Alhambra was not listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site until 1986.  So in the early 70s, there were no regular 'guided tours' available, and each visitor was free to find their own way around the enormous complex.

Seeing the Alhambra, up close and personal, was one of the main reasons that Anton had booked this particular trip. And his knowledge of the palaces and grounds was to prove more extensive than I could ever have imagined!  Given his genuine passion for Muslim excellence in Alhambra's art and architecture, I was both humbled and privileged to be his student that day.   

And what a day it was!

I did not yet know that Alhambra has a timeless beauty whose magical creations transcend our mundane world. She will dance with your Spirit and set your Soul ablaze!

To feel a little of the allure of The Alhambra for yourself, press the link below.
The Alhambra - Spain - UNESCO World Heritage Site YouTube

Photo by kind courtesy of 

http://www.andalucia.com/image/cities/mvc03010-0032alhambrasunset.jpg 

In Spain, The Alhambra represents the pinnacle of  excellence in Muslim architectural craftsmanship.
  
Originally built as a fortress,  the Alhambra commands a sweeping view of Granada city.  Named by the Arabs, Alhambra means the 'the red one' because of the colour of its walls at sunset.

Short History

The Alhambra is a palace city defended by a network of walls and towers built on high hills in a commanding location to the east of the city, with unsurpassed 360 degree views.  

The first Nasrid king, El Ahmar, moved his court to this prestigious and well fortified location in 1238. Successive rulers then altered the palaces according to their own style. Today's Alhambra is almost entirely the work of one king, Mohammed V  

Alhambra Overview

In the Hispano-Muslim houses, the courtyard is the core of family life, around which all the other rooms are distributed. The wealth of a family is viewed not in the exterior of a dwelling but in its courtyard.  

In Alhambra, the Palaces have the same layout and function as houses, only they are larger and much more richly decorated. 

Photo by kind courtesy of: http://www.alhambradegranada.org 

The Royal Palace (see map) is actually three palaces - the Mexuar (1), Comares Palace (2) and the Lion's Palace (5). The Comares Palace houses the Hall of the Ambassador and has become synonymous with it. Each palace is built around a central courtyard containing a fountain or pool. 

press here for a 2-min YouTube Alhambra Tour

CGI shows history and placement of main palaces in The Alhambra. (Graphics, Spanish narration and music)

1. Mexuar Palace  
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org

The Mexuar for meetings of the Counsel of Ministers and the Oratory for worship. Its name is derived from the Arabic word Maswar, the place where the Surah or Counsel of Ministers met. It was also the place or hall where the Sultan dispensed justice.

2. Hall of the Ambassadors   
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org  
At forty-five meters, the tower of the Palace of Comares is the tallest construct in Alhambra. 

Traditionally designed, like other Spanish-Moorish houses with a central open air courtyard, it is flanked by many rooms consisting of a ground floor and at least one upper floor or loft.

Altogether nine small rooms surround the Court of the Myrtles and the Hall of the Ambassadors, the sultan's official residence, was the most important hall in the Palace. Tall and imposing, its lighting is subdued to ensure a respectful quietness during royal audiences and court ceremonies.  

3. Royal baths 
 photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org

These baths show an intimate and sensitive use of light, shape and colour. Singers and musicians would entertain the bathers from the galleries above. 

4. Hall of the Two Sisters 
photo and information by kind courtesy of  http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/index.php/The-Hall-of-the-Two-Sister/160+M5d637b1e38d/0/

With its cupola of sculpted mocarabes (press here for more information) and rich stucco motifs on the walls, this hall was in the centre of a series of chambers where the sultana and her family lived and is the most sumptuous and monumental room in the palace.

Its name comes from the two identical white marble slabs in the floor.  It has a small fountain with a jet and a little channel that carries the water to the Patio of the Lions  

5. Lions Palace and Court 
information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org 

On a small scale, the Fountain of the Lions  represents the entire technical concept behind the creation of the Alhambra, a structural conception rooted in human and constructive experiences developed creatively over many centuries 
 photo by kind courtesy of smh.com.au
The Palace of the Lions was the architectural pinnacle of the Alhambra and the most beautiful part of the Nasrid. Its celebrated marble fountain, guarded by twelve stone lions, is a symbol of its decorative richness and an example of the complex water system.   

The poem inscribed on the fountain tells how much fiercer the lions would look if they weren't so restrained by their respect for the sultan.

photo by kind courtesy of arxxiduc.wordpress.com

The courtyard of the Lions is encircled by delicate arcades which are supported by slender columns. The hall supports the beautiful and perfect dome mocarabes that receives the light from small lateral windows. The dome is therefore like a beautiful and exquisitely rich flower.

6. Hall of the Abencerrages 
photo and information by kind courtesy of: http://www.alhambra-patronato.es/index.php/The-Hall-of-the-Abencerrages/163+M5d637b1e38d/0/

The hall was built by order of Mohammed V. It is square, and has interlacing ceilings and bedchambers connected with the Emperor's Chambers and, through a balcony, with the Partal Gardens. 
  
Of the two residential areas surrounding the Court of the Lions, the rooms located at the south end of the Court developed around the Hall of the Abencerrages. 

The name itself was derived its name from a legend of the 16th century, according to which the members of this North-African family were invited to a banquet and then massacred in this hall.

7. Partal Gardens  
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org

The Partal Gardens are relatively recent, having been planted on the site of the sumptuous palace of the Count of Tendilla, first Catholic General of Granada.

Pomegranate trees whose fruit, the granada, is symbol of the city, shade the paths. To the north, with fine views of the Rio Darro and Sacromonte, is the richly decorated Ladies' Tower.

8.  Charles V Palace 
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org

The palace has two floors (not counting mezzanine floors). On the exterior, the lower is of a padded Tuscon order, while the upper is of the Ionic order, alternating pilasters and pedimented windows. Both main façades boast portals made of stone from the Sierra Elvira.   

photo by kind courtesy of http://www.nationmaster.com/encyclopedia/Palace-of-Charles-V

The circular patio has also two levels. The lower consists of a doric colonnade of conglomerate stone, with an orthodox classical entablature formed of triglyphs and metopes. The upper floor is formed by a stylized ionic colonnade whose entablature has no decoration.

9.  Court of the Myrtles  
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambradegranada.org/en/info/placesandspots/courtofthemyrtles.asp

This is one end of the largest patio inside the Nasrid Palace.The Court of the Myrtles  takes its name from the dense myrtle hedges that line their central waterway. 

 

The Pool plays an important part in the architectural and aesthetic definition of the site, with its surface of water that acts as a mirror and reflects the surrounding structures, generating a geometrical projection that breaks the structural horizontal lines of the place. 

The Court was paved with sizable white marble slabs, although at the end of the 16th century the floor was enlarged.

10. Gardens of Daraxa  
photo and information by kind courtesy of http://www.alhambra.org

A garden within the palace! The Daraxa garden, remodelled in the 16th century, is the best example of a closed garden, a place of charms and delights. 

An irregular trapeze, strong and sober in style, this garden features a big and beautiful Renaissance fountain. Six narrow beds of dense boxwood hedges line the walkways of this garden.

Cypress, Acacia and orange trees surround the central marble fountain which is decorated on the edges with a poem, like the fountain of the Lion’s court. 

On the south side of the courtyard there is a room whose vault creates unique acoustic quality. Named “the Secrets Room” because if two people stand on opposite corners of this room and one of them whispers in the direction of the corner, one person will clearly hear what the other person says. 

It's true, one can hear what is said  

clearly enough to make one blush!

Experience magnificent Alhambra craftsmanship in this 10-minute (English narration) YouTube
  

Our drivers had given us a full six hours to enjoy ourselves in Alhambra and Granada, and it had already taken us over four hours to experience and appreciate the varied and intricate architectural details that brought each structure to life.

We had missed lunch, because our eyes were so filled with beauty that we had felt no hunger! On the walls, floors and ceilings, through the columns and arches to the mountain and city vistas, the Alhambra was -and is- a gorgeous, textural symphonic poem that speaks directly to the heart.

To his technical explanations of the fortress and palace architecture, Anton also added relevant historical vignettes for several of the rooms.  His theatrical delivery made the sights, scents and sounds of this fortress' extensive past come alive for me, searing the memory of Alhambra forever in my brain and, most especially, in my heart.

Long before we entered the beautiful gardens of the Generalife, I had become enraptured by the Alhambra.  

And Anton knew it!   

So when he paused by the pink roses  

to kiss me, I kissed him back. 

As I had ended my lengthy relationship with my now absent Canadian boyfriend mere days before taking this trip, I felt more than a little conflicted about enjoying Anton's kiss.

Needing to regain my equilibrium, I quickly suggested that Anton leave me to meditate in the fragrant Daxara gardens while he photographed some specific features of architecture that had earlier fascinated him.

He found me there an hour later, refreshed and glowing from a meditation that had transcended even Alhambra's magnificent structures, permitting me to glimpse the joy of heaven itself.

We strolled back to the bus, arm in arm, and were the last to arrive, to the good-natured ribbing of our fellow travellers. Though neither of us said a word, my blushing face must have spoken volumes.

Granada to Estepona (120 miles)

Two hours later, we reached that night's campsite, near the town of Estepona, on the Mediterranean coast directly across the sea from Morocco.  And what a delightful place it was.  We stayed on the beach of a recently renovated private hotel, run by a friend of the Tour Company owner's cousin. 

We arrived in time for supper with the Staff, who welcomed us to their own quarters as if we were royalty.  They had prepared a cold vegetable soup meal that was simple in ingredients yet complex in taste - an Andalusian trait in food as well as architecture, it seems.  I later learned that this soup was called  Gazpacho (click here) 
 photo by kind courtesy of hottp://sisonline.axspace.com

 After an entire day of walking, learning and meditating in the open air, sans lunch, my body badly needed replenishment.  And this tasty, local dish perfectly fit the bill for everyone else too.

Our gracious hosts visited our table during supper, informing us that their hotel was due to open that weekend but was currently closed. We were, however, more than welcome to use the staff quarters for our meals, and bathroom needs.   

We were also permitted to camp overnight on the hotel's private beach, as long as we vacated before the beach cleaner swept us away at dawn, tents and all.  And dawn was expected shortly before 8am.

Anton wanted to erect our tent away from the others, as near to the east end of the beach site as possible. He was, he said, keen to photograph an unobstructed view of the rising sun over the Mediterranean Sea.  

As he intended to be as comfortable as possible whilst awaiting that 'golden moment', he turned our sleeping bags around, placing our heads, instead our feet, closest to the tent flap. I was, admittedly, curious about these changes, but too tired to question Anton further.

Tomorrow we would arrive in Morocco! 

And step foot on the continent of Africa...

I had lazily begun to muse about how very differently today would have turned out, had I remained in London and not taken this trip!  But the sand beneath my sleeping bag was too soft and yielding for me to resist its comfort and I fell asleep before complet...

Coming Soon! 

Section 3 - Chapter 6

From Estepona to Tangier

Sunrise, Siesta, Soccer and Sand dunes in

My Road to Morocco - Day 7