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Showing posts with label flowers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label flowers. Show all posts

Friday, May 3, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: June 25-26 Denmark: Helsingør and Copenhagen




Bruised and a weary but alive, we arrived in Copenhagen, where we changed from the International train to a Danish train.  We had been invited to spend the weekend with an elderly female relative of mine in Helsingør, which is situated on the north east coast of the island of Zealand in eastern Denmark 
Donna and I eventually arrived at "Auntie" Stine's home around noon. She lived close enough to town to be near shops, yet far enough away from it to escape uninvited tourists. Auntie had prepared a tasty Danish brunch of open-faced sandwiches for us, from dark rye bread, unsalted butter, pickled herring, cold cuts and her own home grown vegetables and herbs.  After so much eating on the run, and picnicking in trains, it felt really good to sit still at a table to eat and eat a real meal.

And what a delicious spread it was too!
After lunch, Donna summoned what was left of her energy to take a trip back to Copenhagen in order to research her family genealogy in Copenhagen.

I stayed behind, to chat with Auntie Stine and help clean up the dishes after lunch. Then I took a long relaxing hot shower, tidied up my backpack and strolled around my Auntie's pretty flower garden, while she tried to teach me the Danish names of some very familiar blooms. It was a special shared time with a genteel lady, in her peaceful and serene garden that totally soothed my soul. 

Slowly but surely, Auntie Stine led us both toward her cosy garden summerhouse, where, over cups of hot tea, we shared a long chat about our family members, who had moved to England.  But by 4pm, my mind and body, having endured too many sleepless nights, now demanded immediate sleep.

Though I tried desperately to stifled my yawns, Auntie noticed and instantly cleared away our cups and saucers, while insisting that I stay there and nap. Lying down in her pretty summerhouse in its garden setting, with the delightful scent of pansies, and with birdsong wafting through the open windows, made it easy for me to sleep like a baby.

by kind courtesy of  www.naturesrights.com
Donna had not yet returned to Helsingør by the time Auntie Stine and I ate supper together at 6pm.  So, after the dishes were done, I left for Copenhagen excited to experience the magic and promise of Tivoli on my own.
by kind courtesy of 
Tivoli Gardens is more than a Danish amusement park. It is equally as popular as a place to go dining and people-watching.  In the seventies, several different types of public dance venues were also offered as specific sites around Tivoli

by kind courtesy of 
This 21-acre park is beautifully landscaped with fountains and flower beds containing half a million colourful flowers.  At night, thousands of custom-designed lights illuminate the park, giving it the holiday feel of a European Disneyland.
It was a balmy, warm Friday night in summer, in Copenhagen, and I was young, single and female. So, it was inevitible that someone would speak to me! All I had to do was wait.

He stood next to me when I stopped to watch two swans swimming on a man-made pond, with their babies.  And for a little while, he watched them with me. Then (in English), he asked me what baby swans were called in English. Initially, mesmerized by the magical surroundings, and Erik's Scandinavian good looks, I temporarily forgot that the offspring of swans are cygnets.
by kind courtesy of 
http://www.dannygreenphotography.com/media/Iceland%20Gallery/Whooper%20Swan%20and%20Cygnets.jpg
Amused by my flustered state, Erik pressed his advantage, and asked if he could take me dancing. Having slept well that afternoon, my train travel aches and pains now a distant memory. I happily agreed.  He took me to a discotheque inside Tivoli, where we enjoyed an evening of loud music, shouted conversations, furious dancing and cold drinks.

After making an official date to meet Donna and me inside Tivoli for drinks the following evening, Erik gallantly escorted me to the Helsingør train. An hour later, I caught a taxi to Auntie Stine's home, arriving quietly at 1.15am.  Donna had returned earlier and so was fast asleep by the time I returned.  Sleep came easily that night. It seems my body had needed the exercise of Disco dancing!

Saturday June 26 KRONBORG CASTLE and COPENHAGEN
In the morning, I washed some clothes and left them to dry while we breakfasted at Auntie Stine's kitchen table.  Afterwards, she announced that she had arranged to take the two of us, plus a picnic lunch, to visit her local tourist trap:

Kronborg Castle 
Known all over the world as Elsinor Castle, this Helsingør castle, is the setting for William Shakespeare's tragedy HAMLET, one of the most famous and frequently performed stage plays in the world.
Kronborg Castle was named after King Frederik II in 1577, but its history goes right back to the 1420s, when Erik of Pomerania built the strongly fortified castle known as "Krogen" ("The Hook"). From here the king's men controlled the shipping in the Sound and collected the unpopular Sound Dues.
above excerpt taken from http://www.kronborgcastle.com/en/KronborgsHistorie.aspx

It was a long visit, involving a lot of walking after which Auntie Stine, Donna and I strolled outside for a picnic lunch on Kronberg Castle's eastern beach. We came upon a large grassy area, where most people had gathered. Beyond, a narrow strip of beach bordered the shallow sea.

Whilst there, we were amused - and a little shocked - to witness full-on Kronberg Castle sex anticsBy the water, in broad daylight, an amorous young man and his more than eager young lady were so engrossed in each other that they seemed quite oblivious to the fact that young families were also present, at the beach with them. To their credit, the adult Danes simply ignored the couple.  Only the youngest children and I stared at them in complete and utter disbelief!  That's just not something you see every day on beaches in Canada!

Lunch was light, nutritious and delicious, as is usual with Scandinavian fare, and Auntie Stine certainly did us proud!  Somehow, sea air always seems to ramp up one's appetite.  But it also makes one very sleepy. So, we were all ready for a long nap by the time we returned to Auntie's home that afternoon.
by kind courtesy of 
Donna and I awoke around 5pm, eager for an evening out on the town.  We had intended to eat at Tivoli. But, knowing the prices there would be well beyond our budget, Auntie Stine insisted that we eat a light supper with her, before leaving for the station and our train to Copenhagen. 

Upon arrival in the big city, Donna accompanied me to Tivoli and then stuck by my side like glue - for the entire evening.  I had hoped that she would be brave enough to risk striding out on her own, after having visited Copenhagen by herself the previous day.  But Donna had grown up in a small village and was not as used to large cities as I was. She thus needed the reassurance of my company.

Erik met us both at the pre-arranged outdoor Tivoli drinking place, that served cold pitchers of beer along with individual glasses of wine. He had erroneously concluded that Donna was my 'chaperone Auntie', with whom we were staying, and about whom I'd told him the previous night.  He thus graciously provided us both with wine for the entire evening.
Unfortunately, the free-flowing wine only seemed to amplify Donna's discomfort, as all she had to offer, by way of polite conversation, were her many complaints about travelling with me.

Listening to her comments, I concluded that Donna must have been overwhelmed by the insane pace of our Scandinavian tour.  I did, however, feel sad that she seemed unable to relax and enjoy herself in this amazing place designed for light-hearted fun.

We had a further 7 weeks of high-paced travel to enjoy (or endure!) together, and I was quickly becoming apprehensive about how our busy European adventure would unfold.
by kind courtesy of 
thisbrowngirl.wordpress.com/2010/07/emerson-quote.jpg?w=560
Most of all, I was perplexed by Donna's insensitivity towards Erik. He had been guilty only of behaving like a real gentleman as he quietly, and generously, footed the bill for our many, many drinks. The wine, however, had revealed a side of Donna I'd not known about, when we had only ever been colleagues.

But my main focus that evening was Erik and what he must have endured. Though his manners were always impeccable, he looked understandably confused by Donna's open irritability towards him.

So, when my travel companion eventually summoned the courage to visit the washroom alone, I took the opportunity to reassure Erik.

I explained that Donna was neither my 'aunt' nor my 'chaperone', but only my travelling companion. Erik's countenance visibly brightened and he immediately moved a little closer to me, sweetly begging me to join him on a solo date, beginning early the following morning.  Of course I agreed!

Donna would have to fend for herself! And I would not miss her at all.  Nonetheless, I found myself hoping she would spend some time relaxing her body, mind and spirit, in Auntie Stine's garden fragrant summerhouse, that I had so thoroughly enjoyed the previous afternoon.  It had been a healing and beautiful place in which to spend a few delicious hours.

Erik dearly wanted to show me around his beloved Copenhagen and I was delighted to go.  To be shown around a European city by someone who truly loves living there, is a rare treat, And I suspected that the warm summer weather plus Erik's congenial company would create the kind of magic that might, perhaps, extend beyond one single day.

That special day was going to be filled with charm and magic for both of us. Despite Donna's sour mood, I smiled quietly within myself during our return train journey to Auntie Stine's home.
  NEXT WEEK!
DENMARK June 27-29
WONDERFUL, WONDERFUL COPENHAGEN

JULEBEK BEACH

FREDERICKSBORG 
CASTLE in HILLEROD

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE June 27-29 DENMARK

Friday, April 12, 2013

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE: June 21 Sweden's Lappland (770 miles)


Monday June 21, 1976: 

 I dreamt that I needed to phone to check which of Stockholm's two domestic airports we needed that day. And it was just as well I did, or we would have chosen the wrong airport and missed our flight to Kiruna.

A few hours later, our SAS flight north left Stockholm via Arlanda Airport and we ate lunch at 25,000 feet. Kiruna is located within the Arctic Circle, about 770 miles (1240 km) north of Stockholm.
map photo by kind courtesy of steelguru.com
photo by kind courtesy of www.docstoc.com 
We arrived at our windy northern destination to discover that Kiruna airport had only one taxi available in which to chauffeur visitors into town and to their hotels. So Donna and I joined Bo and Hans whom we had met on the flight.

It was a short, but friendly, ride to town, squished together in that taxi. So much so that, by the time we reached Hotel Ferrum, both men had invited us for supper that evening.  


HOTEL FERRUM, KIRUNA, SVERIGE
Our pre-booked room was spacious and airy and had a magnificent view of the mountain and mine. Donna and I changed into jeans and then enjoyed an escorted trip to the town's Iron Ore Mine - the largest deposit of Iron Ore on the planet world.
photo by kind courtesy of www.kirunashotell.se -
The excavation of Kiruna's iron ore is a gigantic engineering feat that, sadly, involves the gradual levelling of the the town's mountain.  Our tour took us underground, where we wore hard hats and saw a drill, the size of a house, in operation. It was very impressive but also extremely noisy!
photo by kind courtesy of barentsobserver.com

Nature does not quietly 
surrender her mineral bounty

After taking photos of people beside the 8ft. diameter wheels on those huge mining machines, I walked around Kiruna, and breathed in the crisp, cool, clear air that was blowing in from the west. Then, I returned to the Ferrum for a bastu - which is what the Swedes call a sauna.
photo by kind courtesy of www.tumblr.com
The hotel's unisex bastu was deserted. Located on the top floor, it was the first one I had ever seen that had a window in it - with a view of the mountain.

The solstice sun's long flirtation with the horizon, on this longest day of the northern year, made it very easy to lose track of time.

I had travelled a thousand miles already, learning new customs, language basics and currencies along the way. While I welcomed the challenge, there was still far to go, and we had not scheduled much time for relaxation. So I happily surrendered to the restorative dry heat of that deliciously silent bastu. After all the hustle and bustle, being there alone was exactly what my soul had needed.

After returning to my room, I had a quick shower and remained in my towel, allowing my body to cool down naturally whilst folding my now dry lingerie.

So, when Hans opened the door without knocking, and then let himself in, I shrieked in surprise.

The poor man looked as shocked to see me as I was to see him. He immediately turned his back and explained that he just wanted me to have what was in his hand. Keeping my composure, I put on my hotel robe, then bid Hans turn around and show me what it was he had in his hand!
photo by kind courtesy of http://fleursflorist.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Rose_and_Freesia_Handtied-300x200.jpg
He had brought Donna and me a fragrant vase of pink miniature roses with some fragrant freesia.  What a sweet welcome to Lappland!

I was sincerely moved by his flower gift, and thanked him, assuring him that we were both looking forward to having supper with him.

Hans then left, but returned a few minutes later to inform us that Bo had to work and was thus unable to accompany us to dinner that night. By way of an apology for breaking the date, he had sent a bottle of wine, which Hans quickly opened.

He poured 3 glasses, then we all toasted to Bo's health and our upcoming evening with Hans before ushering him out of our room so that we could get finish getting ready for dinner!

Donna and I also needed time to recover from the distinct pleasure of receiving both flowers AND wine from two complete strangers!  We simply had not expected to be treated like royalty in Kiruna. Who knew that Swedes were so romantic?!  Maybe it's their hot Viking blood?!

Our vase of pink roses had alerted me that Donna's 
and my stay in Kiruna was sure to be a lot more 
meaningful than either of us could have anticipated.

The dining room at the Ferrum Hotel looked like an IKEA store on steroids. It could have comfortably seated several dozen people. And the magnificent floor to ceiling windows faced the town's raison d'être, its mountain and mine.

The furniture was ultra-stylish, reasonably comfortable and very Swedish. There was even a small dance floor with a surprisingly accomplished dance band playing that night.  

Hans welcomed Donna and me, pulling both of our chairs out for us.  This simple act of courtesy instantly alerted every male there to the fact that at least one of us was potentially available!
photo by kind courtesy of http://whynotbook.com/hotels/view/Scandic-Ferrum-Hotel-Kiruna-Sweden-56388
We ordered our meal, and sipped the wine that Hans provided for the table. His manners were impeccable, as one would expect from a Swede.

But around us, things were rapidly becoming quite bizarre! A couple of dozen men had quietly occupied the tables around us.  And, when they thought we were not looking, were quite openly leering at Donna and me.

It was obvious that the news of our arrival 
had reached the ears of every man in town 
since all the iron-men were seated all around us.

I'd half-finished my glass of wine, when a smiling stranger approached our table and politely asked Hans if he might dance with me!  Hans wisely deferred to my judgement.  And seeing no harm in dancing,  I smiled and rose to my feet.  

We chatted as the stranger guided me across the floor.  He spoke perfect English and, of course, wanted to know why we two ladies were in Kiruna. I explained that I was a university student in Canada and so had wanted to see, with my own eyes, the planet's largest operational iron ore mine.

At the end of our dance, my partner thanked me and returned me to my table and Hans. Donna had also accepted a dance, so poor Hans had been sitting there patiently watching us while awaiting our food orders. He seemed genuinely content with his role as our chaperone.

Hans further explained that for us to refuse to dance, would be considered bad-mannered as all the men were there only because we two young single women were dining there that night!
He spoke the truth! No sooner had Donna and I taken our seats and a quick sip of wine than we received more dance requests. Subsequent invitations followed, as quickly as we were deemed sufficiently refreshed to dance.

Thankfully most of my partners spoke English. Being able to converse with them took my mind off the pain of having my toes - and shoes - so cruelly crushed!

Without realizing it, Donna and I had injected ourselves into 'testosterone-ville'!!  Like most mining towns in the 1970s, Kiruna was comprised primarily of young, strong, healthy males, many of whom regularly spent months at a time separated from their wives and/or families.

We scarcely had time to eat, much less digest our meals. Each man took turns at respectfully approaching our table to ask one or other of us to dance. Some men were flirtatious, others painfully shy and some just hungry for the scent of a woman.  Yet all of our partners behaved like perfect gentlemen. Unfortunately, most of them danced like engineers with two left feet!

That night of dancing brought me face to face - quite literally - with the intense loneliness that is often experienced by those who work in geographically isolated locations. Most of these men staunchly deny the depths of their loneliness, which is another noble act of sacrifice for their family. Thus their pain and selflessness often goes unnoticed and under-appreciated.
I saw varying degrees of loneliness in the eyes of my dance partners that night. And I gasped to suddenly realize the toll it takes on a person's psyche to spend a lifetime away from their loved ones - especially when it is for the sake of providing for those very same loved ones. 
What a cruel, lonely fate! 


We need to honour those men and women 
who quietly labour, in emotionally barren conditions, to provide for loved ones

Somewhere between our entree and dessert, as I was pondering the psychological effects of loneliness on the human body, Kurt asked me to dance. I dutifully followed him to the floor, expecting the worst, but was delighted to discover he really could dance the foxtrot!

Both my parents had been keen ballroom dancers, so I had grown up dancing on my Daddy's feet.  Dancing with Kurt reminded me of the way it had felt to dance with my now deceased Father. And I enjoyed it so much that, custom or not, I refused to dance with any other partner for the remainder of that night.

Hans was very good natured about Donna's and my popularity with the other males, thanking us for sharing dinner was him then bidding us both a genteel goodnight when it was over.

Kurt then invited both Donna and me outside to witness the midnight sun for ourselves.  After an evening of dancing, we wisely decided against climbing the mountain in our dresses and heels. Instead, we traded a slightly improved solar view, for the opportunity to chat quietly with this knowledgeable man, whilst slowly walking around this now deserted town. Everyone, except us, seemed to be asleep!

My mind rebelled against the sky's being so bright at 11.30 at night. Though the sun was dipping downwards to almost touch the horizon, tonight there would be no sunset at all.
photo by kind courtesy of tripwow.tripadvisor.com

The 24-hour bright sky, following days of non-stop activity, played havoc with all of my senses. How does one get their bearings, when the sun never sets?

Even though I'd helped to consume a few of bottles of wine with and after dinner, I was not in the least bit drunk or sleepy. All that dancing must have exercised the alcohol right out of my system!  Donna, on the other hand, was quite weary and so returned to our room.

I chose to spend the rest of that awesome night with Kurt.

In public, being with Kurt had felt more like a one-on-one tutorial than romance! As a Geological Engineer, he was eager to explain all the intracacies of iron ore mining in Kiruna. And since I was already a 3rd year geology student, ours was an intellectual match made in tectonic heaven!

But Kurt was also a fit, handsome, and very sexy, divorced, 34-year old Viking man. And I was a fit, divorced, emancipated 27-year old Canadian woman.  We knew we had only a few hours to share before I would forever leave Kiruna. So, we did not waste time in being shy!

Though short and sweet, our time together was so compelling that, upon my return to Canada, Kurt and I remained friends and communicated, via snail mail, for many years.

I had spent less than 48 hours in Sweden,but was 
already in love with this country and her people!
Tack för den varmt välkomnande, Kiruna, 
och för de underbara minnen
by kind courtesy of jenlemen.com 
My crazy adventures in Sweden had only just begun. 
for the very best was yet to be!


NEXT WEEK!
June 22-23 
Sweden
LULEA, Lappland
Norbotten Museum
Coastal Lappland

STOCKHOLM
Harbour Cruise
The Vasa Warship
Waldemarssude in Djurgarden
Painter Prince Museum

GRAND TOUR OF EUROPE - June 22-23 SWEDEN North to South to NORWAY