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Showing posts with label Tea. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tea. Show all posts

Friday, March 22, 2013

GRAND TOUR of EUROPE: June 1-2 Vancouver, Canada to Buckinghamshire, England

dep. Vancouver June 1, arr. Gatwick June 2, 1976
4765 miles (7645km)

Vancouver Canada to Buckinghamshire, UK
The plane was filled to capacity with mostly adult holidaymakers and older students embarking on a European summer vacation.  On the surface, our flight promised to be quite ordinary, but this particular transatlantic trip was anything but! 

Fraught with difficulties
Our plane’s water supplies had been improperly replenished between flights, and nobody had noticed.  Our drinking and bathroom water had both run dry before we'd cleared even British Columbia’s air space. Adding insult to injury, neither stereo headsets nor movies had been brought aboard our hapless flight. 
photo by kind courtesy of Wikipedia.com
photo by kind courtesy of Wikipedia
We were most disgruntled travellers!  And with a total of 8 hours of being forced to endure such shabby treatment, we became more indignant by the hour.   

Laker's Solution
Sensing our dissatisfaction, the sullen crew sheepishly offered Laker Air’s sincere apologies for our inconvenience – along with free liquor for all adult passengers, for the duration of the trip.  
At least we'd feel no pain!

Two hours and several drinks later, we were served an unappealing meal with an equally unsavory announcement: the bar had run dry of both rum and gin.  But happily, though the whisky and vodka would not last long, plentiful soft drinks were available. 

Loud and incessant grumbling promptly ensued.  
How much more could Laker torture us? 

The Passenger's Solution
To prevent anarchy, Mark, my inventive seat-mate challenged each passenger to a tongue-in-cheek limerick contest about the “joys and advantages” of flying with Laker Airlines. The devious creativity of this exercise kept saner minds occupied, which allowed the flight crew time to attend to the more belligerent travellers.  I decided that 
Mark was my first good omen for my forthcoming trip.

When the limericks were complete, they were duly passed, seat by seat, to Mark who then read out each one aloud, for all to hear.  His resonant tones and theatrical delivery presented each limerick in style.  And the eventual winner was decided by applause and laughter.  
This was my contribution...

Fly to UK with Freddie Laker
And you're making a HUGE mistak-e
First, the water runs dry,
Then bland food makes you cry
And infrequent drinks make your head ach-e!

As Mark was busy projecting his voice so the whole plane could hear him, I fashioned a crown from paper dinner napkins, and later we both held a “coronation” ceremony for the eventual winner.  This and other 'group entertainments' helped to alleviate our boredom for the several hours it took to fly across Canada's endless frozen north. 

Even though we passengers were having a blast and steadily getting more inebriated drinking whatever liquor was still available,  I imagine that, for our beleaguered crew, it was a very long flight indeed. 

Happy Landings
Much to the delight of everyone on board, our plane caught a tail wind over Baffin Island! We briskly rode the jet stream across Greenland, and catapulted into Britain to arrive at Gatwick over an hour earlier than scheduled. 

News of our bedevilled flight must have reached the eyes and ears of the airport authorities, because we passengers were  – uncharacteristically – shepherded through British Customs in less than 30 minutes.  Not one bag was searched!!  I was thus ignobly ejected into the Arrivals area of Gatwick a full 90 minutes before my family would arrive to chauffeur me home. 

Caffeine Please! 
Having remained awake drinking the flight's tiny bottles of spirits while helping to maintain sanity aboard, I was weary, somewhat hung-over and in desperate need of caffeine. Even though it meant risking airport coffee in a country whose national drink is tea, only caffeine would do!

In sudden horror, I realized that I had no British currency on me, and the airport bank had not yet opened for the day. What to do, what to do?!  
photo by kind courtesy of creattica.com

In desperation, I caught the eye of a kindly looking older gentleman, and asked him if he would be so kind as to treat me to a cup of coffee, since I had no English money but needed to sober up in a hurry.  He not only shared several cups of coffee with me, but also listened politely as I described my bizarre “Laker” flight.

An hour or so later, satisfied that I was capable of handling myself without further incident, he left me to my own devices.  I decided that my rescuer was  a most chivalrous knight, and that 
his kindness was a second good omen 
for my forthcoming EurRail adventure  
I usually get 3 such omens before important events!

Mother makes an entrance
My head was almost clear when Mother arrived, a mere 2 hours later than expected.   There was something oddly comforting in knowing that even my 3-year absence from England had not in the least improved her punctuality.


Gatwick to Hazlemere, Buckinghamshire
27 miles (67km)
En route home, we stopped at a Little Chef Restaurant for lunch, which Mom and John seemed to enjoy. As my stomach was still lurching from the flight, I refrained from eating anything till it settled. After battling traffic for a few hours, we eventually arrived at our Buckinghamshire home, just in time for tea.
photo by kind courtesy of worldoftak.ning.com

The Importance of Being Darjeeling
Tea is revered in my Mother's household. Whenever welcoming a prestigious guest - or, in my case, the prodigal daughter - the best china tea service and silverware was always used. Having spent the previous three years in what Britons like to call 'the Colonies', it gladdened my heart to see that Mama still retained England's olde worlde customs.

photo by kind courtesy of afternoonteatable.com
Mother moved to England, and became a permanent British citizen in 1952. And now, she was welcoming me home for the first time since I emigrated to Canada. Within an hour of our arrival in Buckinghamshire, she had indulged me with neat triangles of crustless cucumber sandwiches, sliced angel cake and a quantity of delicious Bourbon biscuits. Along with these delectable treats, she also served Indian tea so strong you could stand a spoon up in it!

It might have been the relief of ending 16 hours of travelling that caused my appetite to return.  Or perhaps it was the thoughtful splendour and charm of Mom's English teatime table, for she had procured  all my childhood favourite foods to welcome me home.  
Good omen number 3 was now fulfilled which
boded well for my forthcoming adventure!

1973-1976 
The tumultuous beginnings of my relationship with my Canadian sweetheart had evolved into a snail-mail, long-distance, summer romance. He had returned to Britain in the Fall and asked me to marry him.

Our Valentine's Day marriage and my emigration from UK to Canada, had shocked my family.

We had married in London and had a 48-hour honeymoon in Brighton before he left for Canada, leaving me to complete my medical and say my goodbyes to colleagues, friends and family. Having too little time to sell my belongings, I simply gave away my lifetime's accumulation of 'stuff'. The surprise and delight on the faces of the recipients gladdened my heart, and made the whole process much easier than I'd feared. So, 3 weeks later, when I emigrated to join my groom in Vancouver, I was carrying only 2 suitcases and a treasured original oil painting.

I spent 1973 trying to be "The Good Wife", but - to my chagrin - soon discovered that my new husband and I had completely different views about life.  Surpringly, I had genuinely welcomed the challenge of integration, of understanding my in-laws and of learning the ways of my new country.  But despite the seriousness of our wedding vows, my husband later confessed to marrying me only to prevent my dating anyone else. He neither wanted nor needed, a permanent commitment with me. At first devastated by his announcement, I eventually resolved to make the most of a less than stellar situation.

So, in Autumn 1974, I enrolled in Vancouver's Simon Fraser University, as a full time student.  I loved the mental discipline of learning new material.  But my soul deeply craved the avant guard element that had been the heartbeat of my London existence, but was absent from my more sedate Canadian life.
photo of Simon Fraser University by Christobelle in 2010
At University, I thus gravitated toward Bohemian types with razor-sharp minds juxtaposed by a zany wit. Those who recognized a kindred spirit in me also devoured books, loved classical music, indulged in "Be-Ins" "Theatre in the Park" and other artistic weekend excursions.

My husband's mood grew darker and more brooding as I spread my mental wings and began to fly!  My love was simply not strong enough to 'save' our marriage. So we separated in May 1975, almost amicably.
photo by kind courtesy of www.guarding.co.uk
I was then free to do my own bidding. But that freedom demanded a full-time job so I could eat and keep a roof over my head. My scholarships and bursaries did not cover everyday living costs.

Night classes at SFU, after a full day of work in the downtown sector, provided me with regular academic infusions. And, more importantly, introduced me to a new people, who gave my life depth and filled it with humour.

The rush-hour bus commute from downtown Vancouver to the campus on Burnaby Mountain was crazy in those pre-Skytrain days.  I was the one strap-hanging and catching up with my reading assignments during the 90-minute journey. Of course, after the insanity that was London Transport, I welcomed busses that were clean and ran on time.

SFU operates on a trimester system, so I was able to maintain my small connection with sanity, throughout the glorious summer months. I revelled in the beautiful mountain view that is visible from many parts of the campus, and also enjoyed the modern award-winning architecture of the 7-year old university.

Despite my dedication to my formal education, it was my self-taught job skills that reaped the best and most unexpected benefits. My bosses discovered that huge, clunking computers didn't scare me. So they  offered me a generous financial package to remain in their employ for the entire year that it would take for them to pack up the whole company and move to Ontario. They offered, but I declined a position at Head Office, in Toronto. My soul belonged in the west and I was totally in love with my new province!

British Columbia had extended me an opportunity 
that would take much hard work and perseverence
but promised to be a lot of fun 
I blessed my good fortune!  

In addition to three academic evening courses, I familiarized myself with the brand new computer that my company had purchased prior to their cross-country move. I was part of the team that made sure important company documents were magnetically backed up. As a result, 1975-6 proved to be an extremely busy and highly successful year of learning for me.

With proper economies, and my end of job severance package, I calculated that I would be able to indulge my dream of travelling overland throughout the continent of Europe.  For the first time since arriving in Canada, I felt like a woman in charge of my own destiny!  How ironic that my first concrete travel plan involved leaving my beloved chosen country. But, I definitely return...for the Fall Trimester.

My difficult and often lonely marriage had been a blessing in disguise. It had brought me to Canada, where I immediately felt that I'd finally "arrived home" - a feeling I'd first experienced in Alhambra during my 1972 trip to Morocco.  

At 26, I had learned that I could survive on a new continent, without the support of family, and despite the treachery of some who proclaimed friendship but whose actions were those of enemies. Though their untrue words and cruel actions had wounded me at the time...

My life 
now resembled
a  plant 
s
t
r
e
t
 c
 h
 i
 n
 g 
through cracks in the asphalt 
towards the warm sun for the 
first time.  And suddenly, 
I realized  how much  my 
entire being needed the 
warmth of that sunshine

Making Decisions
So, I put together a plan to travel all over Europe in the summer of 1976.
Below are my decisions:
  • traded my spacious one-bedroom apartment, close to work, for the cramped quarters of shared digs, closer to the University. I thus travelled less far in darkness after my evening classes.
  • allocated my accommodation savings towards buying my return plane ticket to London, UK.   
  • purchased the book "Europe on $10 a day" and made a list of countries and towns to see.
  • pre-purchased a second plane ticket with hotel, in northern Sweden, to see an iron mine.
  • pre-paid a luxurious 3-day cruise to the Greek Islands in July
The die was cast once I had committed
time, energy - and money - to my dream!

Travel Plans
photo by kind courtesy of inkwells.net
My mode of travel was to be via EuRail, not because I loved train travel, but because it was economical, and frequently the quickest way to travel from town to town within countries in Europe.

Prior experience of British Rail's delays and breakdowns had negatively coloured my expectations of EuRail.  But, with few choices available for student paupers, I staunchly decided to be brave and hope for the best!

My SFU student card permitted me to purchase a cheaper second-class EuRail pass. But since I anticipated spending hundreds of hours on trains in Europe, I treated myself to the 'luxury' of first class upholstery and seat suspension.  Unknowingly, I had made a very wise decision.

Phone calls
The hallway phone began to ring shortly after Mother had poured my third cup of tea, as old friends and family members welcomed me back home to England. Having abandonned the comfort and familiarity of the country that had been my home for 20 years, I soon discovered that others knew as little about my new homeland as I once had - before I'd emigrated.

But though I had grown to love my new province and country, I was shocked to realize how deeply my leaving had impacted others. To comfort and reassure them, I told them about my life in Canada.
*    *    *    *
Beautiful British Columbia
photo by kind courtesy of bcpowersports.com

British Columbia, to the west of the Rocky Mountains, is a mountainous province, filled with picturesque lakes and rivers thanks to the effects of plate tectonics.  Its broad valleys were gouged out during the Ice Age.  And, for over 20,000 years, its many terrains were inhabited by bands of Native People, who walked gently upon it and left only footprints.

On BC's prairies and northern region, the harsh climate imposes its iron will upon all who live there.  Ignore it and you die.  Fail to stock your winter pantry and you will go hungry for months on end.   Fail to procure firewood, warm parkas and boots for winter and you will freeze.
photo by kind courtesy of maijasmommymoments.com
The people who live this way, tend to be straightforward and practical, in both speech and habit. They are good neighbours, when someone is in need, not out of pity, but simply because it would be unthinkable to watch your neighbour die.

Captain Cook was the first known white man to see British Columbia a mere 200 years ago, when he sailed the west coast of North America, looking for a North-West sea Passage.  Explorers and government agents later followed the overland route, travelling along the same river that Scottish Simon Fraser traced, from its source to the ocean. The mighty Fraser River that bisects the province bears his name.

British Columbia, though politically younger and less sophisticated than England, has its own charms, and I had grown to love being there.  Her people were mountain people, observers of ever changing weather patterns, and the movement of animals, as they hunted, fished and farmed the land.  With nature in abundance, BC's main industries were resource based: Forestry, Fishing, Mining and Farming.  Life in Canada was very different from my experience of life in industrial Britain. Here, Nature cannot be subdued, only respected.

My BC university built in 1967 atop Burnaby Mountain, near Vancouver, boasted a magnificent view of the Coastal Mountains and the temperate rain-forest that covered them.  I loved to walk the trails around the campus because my heart truly felt 'at home' amongst those tall evergreen trees.  So much so, that I had gallantly taken a skiing course the previous winter.

photo by kind courtesy of www.allposters.com

But sad to say, I was absolutely dreadful at skiing! Any serious mountain escapades would need to be conducted during the other three seasons.  Winter was definitely not my season! 
*    *    *    *
By the time I finished chatting on the phone, sharing my adventures and listening to those of my callers, both my body and mind were spent and begging for sleep.  So I skipped supper, took a long, hot shower and headed to bed early.  

Mother was to drive me into London the next day, and with the many surprises in store, I would need an undisturbed and restful sleep.
Coming Soon!
June 3 - 17  
England to France
At the British Museum
Shopping in Regent Street
Getting about in Britain

Thursday, October 4, 2012

Chapter 1: Prologue

In the spring of 1972, I was a vibrant, single, socially-awakened 23-year old London girl, with a broken heart and an insane passion for travelling

I'd met my Canadian boyfriend whilst we  had both been hitch-hiking through Scotland the previous year.  He had returned to London with me, and for several months, we'd laughed, loved and lived together. 

Then, just before Valentine's Day, he returned to Vancouver...on the west coast of Canada...promising to come back  'one day'.  

We had since written regularly to each other, trying to make our relationship work across eight time zones. But, cheap phone calls, texting and the Internet were yet to be invented and communicating via snail mail was both unreliable and frustrating.

At that time, a one-hour transatlantic telephone call cost more than my monthly salary, thus any voice-to-voice communication proved impossible. Our romance had inevitably floundered, and I had called a complete halt during the last days of March. 

While the split had been my idea, I missed my boyfriend and was profoundly saddened by the demise of our friendship. So now,
I desperately needed 
to lift my spirits!

That winter's rolling electrical blackouts had continued for far too long, hurling London into a  gloom, from which its hospitals and  massive underground system were the only escapees.  Their emergency generators kept these essential services lit, warm and safely functioning.

Everyone was depressed by the blackouts, including my colleagues and me. But, with our usual British stoicism, we commuted daily, from our flats to our jobs in Central London, praying that we might get through a single week without blackouts. 

We had coped in offices deprived of warmth, electricity and even that British staple - a nice cup of tea. But when the lights that signalled which of our several desk phones was ringing failed, all hope of efficient communications ceased.   

By Easter our last nerves had been rubbed raw! That was when the lifts (elevators) in our Mayfair offices failed, and our huge Government complex began to unravel from the top down.  

Nothing prospered during those hateful black-out days! Unable to do our jobs efficiently, we minions were frequently dismissed long before quitting time.  

photo by courtesy of: www.http://www.instantoffices.com
On one such afternoon,  dizzy with happiness to be dismissed into a pale British spring day, I decided to walk home through London's parks. 

Sunshine had been in very short supply in England that year.  It was now early-April, officially springtime, and the gift of this warmish afternoon was just what my flagging spirit needed.   

From Mayfair to my home in Kensington Olympia, is a distance of two and a quarter miles, if one flies like a crow. 
map courtesy of The Guardian Newspaper, UK
To avoid traffic fumes and London's manic crowds, I decided to walk home that day. Crossing Park Lane, I entered historic Hyde Park and enjoyed a brisk walk beside the Serpentine and into Kensington Gardens.

I had planned to walk as far as Holland Park, eventually emerging mere yards from my flat in Kensington's Olympia district.

But when I noticed that the lights were on in Knightsbridge, the chance of a hot meal suddenly seemed possible. So, at 3.30pm, I left the park via Church Street which led me to Kensington Road.

Thus was I in the right place at the right time to participate in a minor miracle!

Through the open door of a nondescript store, I heard a voice saying:

"By this time tomorrow,   
you could be on the Road to Morocco!"
                                    map courtesy of  turkey-visit.com
  
"What an absolutely 
delicious idea!!"


Wrapping myself in a blanket and straining to read via candlelight in the chill of my tiny Kensington flat was most decidedly not living my best life.

The chance to visit ancient Spanish locales, en route to the sunshine and romance of Morocco sounded so much saner than suffering another sombre spring in stiff-upper-lipped silence. 

My feet walked me inside that store, where I found a salesman extolling the joys of an overland bus tour that was due to depart the very next morning.

Following an overwhelming impulse, 
I signed up for this exotic adventure, on the spot!

The idea of eating now completely forgotten, I practically ran home!  Secretly thanking my globe-trotting Mother for insisting I keep a current passport, I threw a few clothes and travel items into my trusty backpack, and then tied my sleeping bag securely onto the frame.

There was only one drawback that I could see, but it was a big one - I detested camping!

So why was I willing to camp, eat, sleep and travel for days on end with 12 strangers? 
In a word: desperation!  

I yearned to set my soul free and hoped that this 2000 mile road trip through France and Spain to Morocco  - and back again - would banish my blues while expanding my horizons.

Just signing up for the trip improved my mood, partly because it was a dream vacation, but mainly because 
I was willing to risk living life to the fullest.

little did I know that the
events of the next few days
would blow my mind!
.
.
 . 
.
Section 3 - Chapter 2: 
from London to Bordeaux
Meet my travelling companions as we leave London,
cross the English Channel to Belgium where we 
camp overnight then begin our epic adventure in
   My Road to Morocco - Day 1-Day 2 


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Monday, April 27, 2009

Trip to Darjeeling, India

Darjeeling, Queen of the Hills

The first thing I learned was that drinking tea in Darjeeling is a rather regal affair.

Mother and I shared a room in Hotel Sinclair, the very same Victorian hotel in which she and her schoolmates had stayed while visiting that city, six decades before.

Once grandly appointed, those once-spacious rooms had long since been halved, and our quarters now looked decidedly lopsided and care-worn. The hotel's original palatial grounds had also been reduced in size, yet still managed to retain a simple old-world charm and elegance.

Thankfully, all the meals they served were superb, and the informative hotel staff treated us with genuine warmth and courtesy. Also, much to my Mother's delight, the hotel had retained the English custom of afternoon tea, which they served in our room upon our arrival.

Our tea tray was magnificent, with bone china cups and saucers arranged on a silver tray complete with a bone china tea service, silver teapot, milk jug and sugar bowl, silver teaspoons and a tea-strainer.

Accompanying our tea were, of course, the requisite English Tea biscuits (cookies). It felt like we had both stepped back half a century to the latter days of the British Raj, when everything and everyone, in India, stopped for tea.

Ironically, the altitude that grows the world's finest tea also makes it impossible for water to boil hotly enough to successfully steep those fragrant tea leaves for a hot and refreshing cuppa.

We soon discovered these tea leaves absorbed so much hot water that they expanded to fill half the huge teapot. So we made good use of that tea strainer. There were no puny teabags in evidence here.
We were indeed in strong tea country!

If you are cold, tea will warm you.
If you are heated, it will cool you.
If you are depressed, it will cheer you.
If you are excited, it will calm you."
~ William Gladstone
Even though we had travelled through some of the world's biggest and best known tea plantations to get here, our first taste of tea was quite unexpectedly disappointing. Fortunately, the grandeur of sharing an elegant afternoon tea and quiet chat with the Grande Dame of our family more than made up for any of my dashed hopes. And isn't the exchange of ideas and information with one's family the true purpose behind the tradition of "high tea" 
Learn more about Darjeeling at:  
http://darjeeling.gov.in and http://www.darjnet.com/darjeeling/darjeeling
 
BUDDHIST MONKS
I slept amazingly well in Darjeeling. The altitude of almost 8000 ft felt, somehow, normal and familiar to me, even though I had never stepped foot on that terrain prior to 1993, at least not in this lifetime. And, despite the rarified atmosphere, I actually breathed more easily here than on the dusty plains of India.

My poor lanky uncle did not fare so well, succumbing to the dreaded and euphemistically entitled "hill sickness", which is altitude sickness combined with Montezuma's revenge. Thus, our whole family took a much needed break during the day after our arrival. The whole family, that is, except for me.

Awakened early by the temple bells of surrounding Buddhist Monasteries, which summoned the faithful to their prayer, I almost gleefully left my bed before the sun rose. Although I am a night-owl in Canada, the dulcet tones of those soothing bells somehow spoke to me, urging me to get up, dress warmly and explore outside the hotel.  Pedestrians were safer in the city than on the road that carried us to it, so I felt the experience worth the risk of venturing out alone.

A brief but plentiful mountain rain had cleansed the streets, and freshened the air overnight. And the long shadows of dawn lent to Darjeeling the mysterious aura of a medieval European village. After my faux pas of the previous day, I was more than eager to photograph the architecture or an unique scene in that magical place.

Camera poised, I was about to shoot a Victorian schoolhouse, when a Buddhist monk suddenly and silently exited from the schoolhouse door. His head had been shaved, and he carried in his hands a dorje and a small Tibetan bell. Only a faded wine-coloured garment over his saffron robes protected him from the chill mountain air. So, when I noted that he wore open sandals on his naked feet, I shivered in spite of myself. 

 photo by kind courtesy of: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2417/2196342921_14fc6ab3e9_o.jpg
 
This first monk was followed by several identically clad monks, each of whom made eye contact with me and then bowed respectfully before passing by me. They all resembled the monk who had appeared to Mike and me half a world away in Burnaby, some 14 years before.

The resemblance was so strong, it startled me, at first. But then I became so engrossed in bowing back and replying with "Namaste" to each of them in turn that I totally forgot to actually USE my camera to record the event.

Not that any of those early morning monks had been the very same monk that had visited us in Canada. Though several years had passed, I felt certain I would readily know the special monk who had given us that wonderful carpet of pink roses.

But apart from an ethnic similarity in their Tibetan facial features, I had not recognized any of these early risers. Their garments had been identical, so I felt sure that I had finally the place where an actual meeting might occur. And that realization made me feel immediately very much at home in Darjeeling and brought me a degree of comfort.
for more information about Tibetan Buddhism:
http://tibetanaltar.blogspot.com/

DARJEELING ZOO
Because it clings to the ridges of the mountainous terrain, and is serviced only by a narrow roadway, it comes as a shock to realize that Darjeeling is home to 250,000 souls, several private schools and even its very own zoo.

Situated on the outskirts of the city, Darjeeling Zoo covers many hilly acres, that offer lush treed walkways that shade visitors from the pre-monsoon sunshine. The entrance leads to a meandering walkway that leads up the hillside to the various animal exhibits.

At such a high altitude, even a small incline taxes the heart and lungs, so Mom and I strolled very slowly, enjoying a cordial conversation amid the birdsong and plethera of flowering trees that decorated our pathway. 

It was during that stroll that I saw, and instantly recognized, the same variety of rhododendron tree that had grown behind the apparition of  'my Canadian Buddhist monk'. Only then did Mother inform me that rhododendrons which grow as bushes in temperate climates, flourish as trees in India, and can reach up to and beyond 50 ft tall in the Himalayas.

In England, where I grew up, many public parks and stately homes feature rhododenrons in their formal gardens. My Father, an avid amateur photographer, had loved these showy signature plants so much that we planted several in our own back garden in London. 

Bedford Abbey Rhododenrons, 1962  photo by M.Jack H (dec'd)
Until his untimely death in 1964, Dad had devoted much time and energy to capturing the jewelled colours and rose-like rhododendron blooms on photographic slides. I had always loved their brilliant flowers, which had prompted the ancients Greeks to name them "rose tree", which translates as rhododendron. Now, I was so excited by seeing the taller, larger Indian version of this "shrub" that I could hardly wait to tell my husband, Mike, all about it!
I really missed having him with me on this trip. 

LEOPARDS, TIGERS AND BEARS, 
OH MY!
The Darjeeling Zoo attracts an amazing 300,000 visitors every year. Held in very high esteem in India, it is a sanctuary to rare and unusual wildlife and, since 1986, this zoo has featured a Snow Leopard Breeding Centre.

By 2003, this enclave, which sprawls over an area of 44 hectares (108 acres) had five snow leopards, five tigers, 10 leopards, 6 Himalayan wolves, 27 birds and 93 reptiles and a number of Himalayan bears. Here also lived the only Siberian tigers in India!

While Mom highly approved of the motivations and exhibits of Darjeeling Zoo, she did not want to see the animals there. Like my Mother, I do not enjoy visiting animals in cages, as I would much rather see them in their own habitat. Mom seemed to prefer only my company that day. And, as we happily strolled the grounds together, she educated me about all the different trees and plants that are indigenous to this high altitude area of India.

Mom's French grandmother's family had long ago become wise in the ways of homeopathy and herbal plants, and had bestowed that wisdom on their eldest grandchild. In her turn, Mom had then shared her knowledge with me. I had thus grown up with a love of the grand simplicity of Nature's design and an equally strong respect for all living things - which explains how my two pesky younger sisters actually survived to adulthood.

An avid gardener, my Mother is also a gifted teacher, with a vast knowledge of plants and herbs, both in Europe and in India. So learning from her, directly, on site, was a rare and thrilling privilege. Yet, I was still curious about the kinds of animals that lived at these altitudes, and how they would be portrayed in this particular zoo. Besides, I'd always wanted to see a real live Bengal tiger - up close and personal! 
HIMALAYAN 

After we'd walked around the grounds of Darjeeling Zoo for an hour or so, Mom and I both visited the museum attached to the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. It occupies a part of the zoo site, so was easy to include in our zoo experience.

Founded by Tenzing Norgay, the Sherpa who spent most of his life in Darjeeling before he led Hillary up Everest in 1953, this Institute teaches - you guessed it - climbing.

Afterwards, Mom really needed a long rest. So I left her on a bench by the statue of that local hero, happily perusing the leaflets we'd gathered during our visit to the Mountaineering Institute.

The rest of my relatives had also gone their own way upon entering the zoo. So, as soon as I was alone, I left the broader pathways to glean a closer view of the zoo's rare and endangered inhabitants.

By now, it was mid-afternoon and most of the creatures were napping, hiding in the shade or curled up behind rocks, in a bid to escape the unseasonally hot April sunshine.

To my frustration, even the larger animals were so far away as to be barely visible through my camera's view-finder. Somehow I needed to get closer to them. But a person simply does not expect to get up close and personal with a sleeping zoo animal!   Unless, of course, that person is me.

BENGAL TIGER
As fate would have it, my path crossed that of the tiger handler who explained, via hand gestures and very broken English, that his favourite old tiger was feeling poorly that day. When I expressed concern and asked if I might meet his tiger, the handler led me to a thick wooden door that provided entry to a covered stone enclosure.

At eye level, a foot square hole had been carved into the door, and into this hole were fitted several stout vertical steel bars, through which I peered into the gloom of the tiger's cell. As my eyes adjusted, I was delighted to see about 9 feet of sleeping tiger fur sprawled across the cool stone floor.

I noted that tiger's paws and claws were enormous, and his jaws seemed very strong, certainly healthy enough to rip flesh from bone. Yet, his breathing did seem quite laboured. While I had hoped to stay longer, the overpoweringly acrid aroma of rotting meat permeated his quarantine area, which not-so-subtly discouraged lingering.

YOU WANT TO SEE TIGER? 
I asked my companion if he had a special name for this magnificent beast, upon which he stared at me in a bemused fashion for a few seconds. 

"This is Bengal Tiger" he replied curtly before shooing me, the ignorant tourist, away from the door separating him from his beloved charge.

I turned reluctantly to leave, when the tiger handler's demeanour suddenly changed and instead, he beckoned me to stay.

He was now positioned about 3 feet to the right of the original tiger door, beside a smaller, 2-foot square cell door situated about waist level and set into the thick stone walls.

"You want to see Tiger?" he asked, in a taunting sing-song tone. "Come closer, come see tiger!"

I leaned forward, next to the smaller door, preparing to, once again, peer into the gloom. But as I waited for a closer look, the handler gleefully flung wide the door and I was immediately assailed by the full fury of the enormous crouching cat whose jaws unhinged and growled at me so loudly that I shook uncontrollably for what felt like an eternity but was probably only a few seconds.

This 'poorly' tiger was now magnificently ferocious in his expression, having the largest set of teeth and the foulest breath I ever want - or need again - to experience 'up close and personal'

Picture Source: ucumari and Animal Photos
 At first I staggered backwards, but in my effort to turn and run, fell headlong down several concrete steps before regaining my composure. By now, the handler was laughing heartily and I could see actual tears in his eyes.

My own heart was beating so hard it felt like it would burst through my chest. That perfectly healthy tiger cat seemed to thoroughly enjoy his part in their cruel practical joke; so much so, I could swear he was also smiling at my obvious distress!

When my shock finally abated, I was able to reassure myself that, despite my adrenaline overload, the several stout bars set into that cell's smaller door meant I had been in no real danger.
This pair's antics certainly shortened my lifespan by several years. Yet, nothing ventured, nothing gained!

Mother later told me that Indian villagers, who have unexpectedly encountered these beasts in the wild, have often died of sheer fright from the blood-curdling roar and breath of the tiger alone.

Having been there, and done that, I can certainly understand how and why they would literally be scared to death! Luckily, I had had stout steel bars preventing me from becoming this particular tiger's afternoon snack.

To fulfill one's impossible dream, one must first be willing to undertake extraordinary risks
- and (for ME) 'communing' with that beautiful, endangered wild creature definitely fitted into that category, despite the presence of those stout bars!

My encounter with a large Bengal Tiger is a story that I will treasure for my lifetime, and hopefully relate to my great-grandchildren.  Let us fervently hope that, when that generation is fully grown these majestic cats will still flourish in India. 
 
Learn more about Bengal Tigers here: 
http://www.indiantiger.org/bengal-tigers/indian-bengal-tiger.html

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SECTION 1 Chapter 5  South Asian Culture Shock  An Angel saves my sanity as we experience a mountain thunderstorm in Darjeeling together