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Friday, October 5, 2012

Chapter 2: Days 1 - 2
London to Bordeaux
(700 miles)


Day 1:  England to Belgium (160 miles)

The next morning, instead of reporting to my Mayfair office, I caught the tube to Victoria Station, promising to send a telegram to my boss at my earliest opportunity.  

I was travelling out of England for the next few weeks, and couldn't, in all conscience, just disappear and have her worry about me.  

Like everyone else, I really needed my job's regular paycheque each month. But, about to disappear without notice, I was uncertain if either would be waiting for me when I returned.
photo by kind courtesy of:
www.simplonpc.co.uk/SNCF1.html#anchor19098 
To avoid being overwhelmed by guilt, I decided not to obsess about taking this time out, at least until I felt ready to explain my reasons to my boss.
 
The rest of the Overland Tour group and I met our drivers at Victoria Station, shortly before we all boarded a chartered bus to the Dover ferry.

photo by kind courtesy of: www.dovercalaisferrytickets.com
By 3pm, we'd crossed the English Channel to Calais and wasted no time in reaching our first pit stop, a campsite in rural Belgium.  

I was the first to spy the Volkswagen 'hippie' wagon
 that was to transport us to Morocco and back.  

It was a riot of flower-power artistry that was sure to attract attention on the road. And, as our drivers pointed out, it would be easy to spot in any parking lot!

Our bus had no bathroom, but it was reliable and would seat us each of us in relative comfort during our 2000 mile  journey to Fes and back.

On the roof of the "Love Bus", as we named it, were cooking and camping gear, provided by our Overland Tour Company.    
photo by kind courtesy of www.wisegeek.com
By pooling our food money, we prepared and ate nutritious meals when and how we chose. Extra funds paid for snacks and restaurant treats

Having spent an entire day travelling from England to collect this bus had primed us for our Morocco trip. We were all eager to venture overland for 17 glorious days, through three countries and two continents.

This trip was a dream come true!
 
Our journey out of England had given me a chance to chat with my fellow travellers, for the first time.  Auspiciously, we numbered thirteen: 8 men, 5 women. 

The other four 20-something women were single nurses who had trained together in Manchester and were now belatedly celebrating their success.   

Four of the men, also in their twenties included a scholar, an architect and two world-travelling brothers from New Zealand.  Our two Aussie drivers, and the two English business-men were all in their late thirties.

I found our two drivers,  and one of the businessmen, very sensible and approachable. Sadly, the other businessman, George, was a relentless wet blanket who heartily disapproved of "my reckless hippie views" and took every opportunity of telling me so!  As a group, we were often to wonder aloud why George had chosen to travel with a 'hippie tour'.

Of the younger set, the four nurses and two brothers were delightful company - polite, helpful and friendly. Only the red-headed Len, a quietly brooding scholar, seemed like a fish out of water. I secretly suspected he would have felt more at home inside a monastic library.

Anton was a young architect from London who had a passion for photography. He was an intelligent and articulate fellow with an infectious smile and a gift for spinning a yarn that kept most of us laughing all the way to Morocco.  And he took an immediate shine to me!

As the odd person out, I had expected to pitch and sleep alone in my own tent for the duration of the trip. But, while were crossing the English Channel, Anton verbally jettisoned Len as his proposed tent-mate, leaving the brooding scholar to fend for himself.

Anton then volunteered to be my bodyguard, which apparently meant he would pitch my tent for me at each and every campsite.  Who was I to argue?!
photo by kind courtesy of: www.diggingalot.org
Upon arriving at our destination that afternoon we removed the camping and cooking gear from the Love Bus roof.

True to his word, Anton efficiently and quietly set up my tent near the others. 

We all pitched in to unpack our camp kitchen and foodstuffs, and then prepared a hearty meal which we ate together around the blazing campfire.  

Later we relaxed, sipping wine before cleaning up, re-packing our cooking gear and calling it a night. That was when I discovered that Anton had placed his own sleeping bag right beside mine, inside my tent!

It was, he explained, easier to protect me when he knew precisely where I was.  And while I couldn't fault his logic, I did wearily wonder why he was being so solicitous of my needs.  But it  had been a long, eventful day and I was much too tired to think. 

Making a note to sort it out 'later', 
I slid into my sleeping bag and was soon asleep. 

We were finally on our way!


Day 2:  Belgium to Paris (240 miles)
             Paris to Bordeaux (300 miles)

Sometime that night, I startled awake, feeling a warm hand roaming my body.  Irritated by his hubris, I pushed Anton away, then lay in the dark, formulating my response.

Supporting myself on one elbow, I faced my randy tent-mate. Then, in an angry whisper, I impressed upon Anton that, regardless of our circumstances, I expected him to behave like a gentleman! Were his intentions otherwise, I informed him, I would not require his 'services'  for the remainder of our trip.

My would-be bodyguard had understood my boundaries and I had accepted his apology before either of us returned to sleep that night.  And despite some lingering misgivings about Anton, I quickly fell asleep for the rest of the night.

The aroma of fresh coffee and warm croissants roused us all from slumber, a few hours later.

While shopping for that day's food supplies, our drivers spied a boulangerie where they purchased our first "continental" breakfast of the trip.

Quel Surprise! 

While we stowed our tents and backpacks on top of the "Love Bus", I realized, to my chagrin, that I still hadn't sent a telegram to my boss.  

Again, I promised I would  do so when we stopped in Paris.  But first we needed to head south.
   Good bye Belgium!    
  Hello  France!  

I was soon made aware that my decision to ‘room’ with Anton had had the oddest effect on the quietly brooding Len. Though Len had baulked at the idea of solitary camping, he never once stated his objections directly to anyone! Instead, he would add a caustic  “here here” to George's frequent rants against me!

Quelle paire d'imbéciles!

Last night's awkwardness now just a memory, and boundaries established, Anton and I were having far too much fun to allow Len or George to cast even the merest shadow over us. Thankfully, the rest of our fellow-travellers were blissfully unconcerned with how - or why - we, two, had teamed up for the trip.  

With a couple of notable exceptions, our happy little group hung together like a family, enjoying each other's company and the camaraderie of communal mealtimes.  

C'est si bon! 
Christobelle with parents, Yvonne and Jack, in 1950 
That first day, we also shared tales of our former experiences in Europe, and I casually mentioned having once lived in France. But before I could explain that I'd been but a toddler then,  our driver  handed me a map and told me that I would navigate our bus through Paris.
 
*merde!!*

I had really hoped to stop in the City of Lights, if only for an hour to send that telegram. 

Though thwarted, I gamely searched the map for the shortest route through Paris. And this was no easy task! Before its ring road was completed, a few years' later, all roads really did lead to Paris.

But on that particular day, precious few roads seemed to lead from Paris!
photo by kind courtesy of www.survol-paris.com
We, and our poor Love Bus, thus circumnavigated the Arc de Triomphe for an hour before we stumbled upon the road that actually led us out of 'La Ville-Lumière' via the road to Aquitaine.  

photo by courtesy of www.vintageholidays.co.auk
By the time we were beyond Paris' city limits, it was well past lunchtime.  We were exhausted and testy, but still had miles to go before we slept. Most of us were thus were eager to keep driving and make up for lost time.  

Our drivers vetoed our idea, stopping instead beside a picturesque field where we enjoyed a picnic meal. After lunch, our drivers again shopped for the food and supplies we would need when we stopped for the night. 
photo by kind courtesy of girlsguidetoparis.com/archives/best-cycling-workout-in-paris
That pause in our day was a wise decision.  All around us lay broad, flat fields basking in warm spring sunshine, reminding us that we were now on holiday and thus were supposed to be enjoying ourselves.

We resumed our journey, an hour later, more relaxed, with full bellies and much improved dispositions.

We followed the Aquitaine Road south to Orleans, then headed in a south-westerly direction to the outskirts of Bordeaux. 
photo by kind courtesy of: http://qingdaoschoolhub.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/bordeaux.png

By the time we finally set up camp outside Bordeaux that night, it was way too late to eat a full evening meal. So we were most grateful for the recent purchases of cold meats and salad veggies which we ate with baguettes, apples and a couple of dessert cheeses, all washed down with a couple of bottles of local wine!   


Délicieux!! 



Section 3 - Chapter 3: 
 From Bordeaux thru the Pyrenees Mtns. 
to San Sebastian, Spain
Landslides, Little Richard and Loud Laughter in 

My Road to Morocco - Day 3

 


Thursday, October 4, 2012

Chapter 1: Prologue

In the spring of 1972, I was a vibrant, single, socially-awakened 23-year old London girl, with a broken heart and an insane passion for travelling. 

I'd met my Canadian boyfriend whilst we  had both been hitch-hiking through Scotland the previous year.  He had returned to London with me, and for several months, we'd laughed, loved and lived together. 

Then, just before Valentine's Day, he returned to Vancouver...on the west coast of Canada...promising to come back  'one day'.  

We had since written regularly to each other, trying to make our relationship work across eight time zones. But, cheap phone calls, texting and the Internet were yet to be invented and communicating via snail mail was both unreliable and frustrating.

At that time, a one-hour transatlantic telephone call cost more than my monthly salary, thus any voice-to-voice communication proved impossible. Our romance had inevitably floundered, and I had called a complete halt during the last days of March. 

While the split had been my idea, I missed my boyfriend and was profoundly saddened by the demise of our friendship. So now,
I desperately needed 
to lift my spirits!

That winter's rolling electrical blackouts had continued for far too long, hurling London into a  gloom, from which its hospitals and  massive underground system were the only escapees.  Their emergency generators kept these essential services lit, warm and safely functioning.

Everyone was depressed by the blackouts, including my colleagues and me. But, with our usual British stoicism, we commuted daily, from our flats to our jobs in Central London, praying that we might get through a single week without blackouts. 

We had coped in offices deprived of warmth, electricity and even that British staple - a nice cup of tea. But when the lights that signalled which of our several desk phones was ringing failed, all hope of efficient communications ceased.   

By Easter our last nerves had been rubbed raw! That was when the lifts (elevators) in our Mayfair offices failed, and our huge Government complex began to unravel from the top down.  

Nothing prospered during those hateful black-out days! Unable to do our jobs efficiently, we minions were frequently dismissed long before quitting time.  

photo by courtesy of: www.http://www.instantoffices.com
On one such afternoon,  dizzy with happiness to be dismissed into a pale British spring day, I decided to walk home through London's parks. 

Sunshine had been in very short supply in England that year.  It was now early-April, officially springtime, and the gift of this warmish afternoon was just what my flagging spirit needed.   

From Mayfair to my home in Kensington Olympia, is a distance of two and a quarter miles, if one flies like a crow. 
map courtesy of The Guardian Newspaper, UK
To avoid traffic fumes and London's manic crowds, I decided to walk home that day. Crossing Park Lane, I entered historic Hyde Park and enjoyed a brisk walk beside the Serpentine and into Kensington Gardens.

I had planned to walk as far as Holland Park, eventually emerging mere yards from my flat in Kensington's Olympia district.

But when I noticed that the lights were on in Knightsbridge, the chance of a hot meal suddenly seemed possible. So, at 3.30pm, I left the park via Church Street which led me to Kensington Road.

Thus was I in the right place at the right time to participate in a minor miracle!

Through the open door of a nondescript store, I heard a voice saying:

"By this time tomorrow,   
you could be on the Road to Morocco!"
                                    map courtesy of  turkey-visit.com
  
"What an absolutely 
delicious idea!!"


Wrapping myself in a blanket and straining to read via candlelight in the chill of my tiny Kensington flat was most decidedly not living my best life.

The chance to visit ancient Spanish locales, en route to the sunshine and romance of Morocco sounded so much saner than suffering another sombre spring in stiff-upper-lipped silence. 

My feet walked me inside that store, where I found a salesman extolling the joys of an overland bus tour that was due to depart the very next morning.

Following an overwhelming impulse, 
I signed up for this exotic adventure, on the spot!

The idea of eating now completely forgotten, I practically ran home!  Secretly thanking my globe-trotting Mother for insisting I keep a current passport, I threw a few clothes and travel items into my trusty backpack, and then tied my sleeping bag securely onto the frame.

There was only one drawback that I could see, but it was a big one - I detested camping!

So why was I willing to camp, eat, sleep and travel for days on end with 12 strangers? 
In a word: desperation!  

I yearned to set my soul free and hoped that this 2000 mile road trip through France and Spain to Morocco  - and back again - would banish my blues while expanding my horizons.

Just signing up for the trip improved my mood, partly because it was a dream vacation, but mainly because 
I was willing to risk living life to the fullest.

little did I know that the
events of the next few days
would blow my mind!
.
.
 . 
.
Section 3 - Chapter 2: 
from London to Bordeaux
Meet my travelling companions as we leave London,
cross the English Channel to Belgium where we 
camp overnight then begin our epic adventure in
   My Road to Morocco - Day 1-Day 2 


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Wednesday, April 7, 2010

1 Steak 3 cats

One Steak, Three Cats  When two equal and opposite forces seek to consume the same desired object at the same time, a third weaker force - that discounts the needs or wants of the two warring forces  - can and will consume that object.

Whether this third force achieves success depends on the subsequent actions of the initial two forces.

If they both maintain their tug of war stance and refuse to cooperate, they both lose, not only the object, but also their pride, when the third weaker force walks away with their prize.

In this video, if the first and second cats combined their energies and goals and overpowered the opportunistic smaller cat they would win the steak and the smaller cat would lose.

If they practise understanding, negotiation and cooperation, they all win, but only when each cat has realized that there is more than enough steak for even that weaker third cat to have a share.

This is a rule that applies throughout Nature, whenever and wherever scarcity occurs. It occurs in the animal kingdom, and amongst humans. It cuts across all racial and class boundaries, and is rife throughout human systems, including through many political systems like the US Congress.

Think of the two dominant cats as politicians, then think of the power wielded by lobbyists for large organizations as the third, weaker yet opportunistic force. Were political men and women united in their goal to genuinely improve life for the citizenry, this third force would simply cease to exist. It would not die away but would simply revert to its original state. For surely even the most assertive lobbyists were once men and women of good conscience?

Just as unyielding, unthinking animals continue to dominate the natural world, similarly minded men and women - who are deemed far wiser than such animals - continue to inhabit and dominate our western judicial and political systems. Our only defence against their treachery is to cooperate with one another, to unite in heart and goals so as to render the opportunists ineffective while creating a better life for all.

We are stronger as a whole than any segment of that whole. So, we humbly invite the myriad disruptive 3rd force agents of this world to wake up and smell the coffee, while there are still bees to fertilize the coffee crops. Nature does not subduing, she needs our help!

By truly caring about humanity and realizing the value of sincere understanding, negotiation and cooperation, we can all enjoy positive changes in our lives. Only when we each recognize and accept and play our part in the greater plan, will the quality of everyone's life and law improve.